I have a MY00 turbo, with the mixed comments about MAF sensors and what happened to some scoobs with using Induction kits, I have been a bit weary about fitting one.

Could any one tell me if there is anything wrong with introducing more airflow through the standard filter arrangement? or by doing this will it have the same result as using an induction kit.

I currently have an ITG panel filter in and was thinking of running some extra pipe work into the original filter system.
could this cause damage? or will there be nothing gained from this.


Eggscuse the speeling !!!!!

Any help appriciated. Thanks Steven

[Edited by stevied1 - 11/6/2002 11:03:20 AM]

 

is it worth messing about with it steve? as far as i know there should be no need for any extra induction, unless the car has been heavily modded. i feel that you are likely to create problems. unless there is a good reason, i would leave it well alone. my view though and probably not shared by many on scoobynet. get the ppp instead if you want to upgrade mate,
weava

 

Hi there.

I did the same thing to my WRX ´01 as I did to my former Volvo T5.
Drilled an extra hole in the airbox, aluminium pipe (hose) from the box and to the front of the car. So far only standard filter but sound is a little bit better. Will remove my foglights and fit a fine masked steel net in the beginning of the hose to prevent water and stones to enter. Will mount it behind some kind of grille. I also cut off the silencer and sealed it. On the Volvo it worked fine with a KN filter.

 

Steve

I think there is more mis-information written about this than perhaps any other topic

When I ran an MY00, I tried all of the following: standard air filter, K+N replacement filter, K+N with cold air induction hose, running through the inner wing, replacing the resonator and an HKS green 'mushroom' system. The HKS was certainly the loudest, but its benefits were moddest. You'll get more improvement decatting the car!

Thing to also remember is that engines are designed to allow air to flow over them when they are moving. The actual temperature of air flowing over the engine when moving will be little different to air drawn in directly from outside and directed onto an air filter.

I would stick with the ITG (that's what I run in my MY01 now).
If you want, you can fit a cold air induction pipe (basically a flexible piece of aluminium tubing, obtained from Halfords for about a fiver - don't pay the silly money that some of the big japanese suppliers want - I can't see the point). Remove the resonator from inside the front wing - and bend the tubing into an 's' shape. Direct the top towards the air filter and angle the bottom to collect air from under the front of the car. It can be secured using 'zippy' ties on the original mountings for the resonator. The shape will mean that you should not get water or mositure drawn up directly onto the filter (the resonator is designed to limit the noise and prevent water getting into the filter).

Incidently, with all the various things that I ran, I never had a problem or a MAF failure - I might have been lucky though!

Chris

 

I don't know about the MY00 but on the older shape scoobs, the inlet into the standard airbox is VERY restrictive!

When you take the filter out, have a look at the size of the air-pipe going from the Airbox, and then have a look at the pipe going in.

Mine was approximately HALF the diameter.

Simply enlarging this pipe (using the aforementioned Aluminium hose technique) improved my throttle response at low revs and made the car pull better and spool up a little quicker at around 3300rpms. On a standard car.

And you could hear the difference, too.

Steve

 

Not sure about the scoob but ive noticed that the Peugot WRC has a nice air intake that is fastened to the underside of the bonnet, it has a wide mouth where the intake is which fits nicely into the grill, the other end seems to fit snuggly over the cone when the bonnet is dropped. The WRC scoob will have similar setup. Im sure it couldnt be that hard to design a simple yet cheap version?
I would of thought that more cold air the better whether its running over/under/in the engine. The standard airbox does what it says on the tin but as mentioned above its restrictive, I would put my neck out and say is the most reliable. If you have a Cone filter/induction kit then get a cold air feed, because you can bet your boots that cone will sooking in all that Hot air from the engine bay. Even though the difference is not going to break your neck, it will make a difference to your throttle response. In summer (at least i think thats what they call it) I take the blanking plates from the underside of the bonnet vents to let the hot air escape.
Hope this helps.

 

Or you can try the cold air induction system from DMA that connects directly from wing to the original air box.
JIM