Engine cut off at 3.5k 4000 rpm
So I have a 2003 forester xt 2.0 ej205 engine my engine cuts off at 3500 4000 rpm in neutral and all gears also I smell a lot off unburned fuel and lots off black smoke from the exhaust ecu has no code.
I changed sparks fuel filter I make a smoke test to check for leaks all is fine. Also the car boost only at 0.4 0.5 bar in all gears. Will attach a video on YouTube if this can help
I changed sparks fuel filter I make a smoke test to check for leaks all is fine. Also the car boost only at 0.4 0.5 bar in all gears. Will attach a video on YouTube if this can help
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I've changed almost everything now since I have a spare engine MAF, crank sensor knock sensor camshaft sensor. I change wastegate bypass boost control bypass blowoff valve. Change sparks coils lol nothing change tomorrow I will read fuel trim on diagnostic an do a compression testI've done smoke test vacuum leak I don't know what else to do 😂
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I think really with this you need a scope: Back probe from injectors and coils to see what's going on...are coils losing power (hard cut, and unburnt fuel)? Are injectors being held fully open (soft cut and black smoke)?
Then check cam and crank sensor pattens at the ECU end.
As a basic guess I'm guessing you either have a bad earth somewhere or a high resistance on the wire that supplies power to the coils..so it can provide voltage/current at low engine speeds but can't provide enough to supply the coils at higher speeds. Excessive interference on cam/crank wires could be a possibility, but I'd expect Cam/crank sensor codes to be logged.
This guy in the following link had an issue where his ECU would just shut down at high engine speeds, then cut back in as it slows (photobucket killed the video
)...that was down to a bad earth on the engine: https://www.scoobynet.com/881965-lar...6000rpm-2.html
Then check cam and crank sensor pattens at the ECU end.
As a basic guess I'm guessing you either have a bad earth somewhere or a high resistance on the wire that supplies power to the coils..so it can provide voltage/current at low engine speeds but can't provide enough to supply the coils at higher speeds. Excessive interference on cam/crank wires could be a possibility, but I'd expect Cam/crank sensor codes to be logged.
This guy in the following link had an issue where his ECU would just shut down at high engine speeds, then cut back in as it slows (photobucket killed the video
)...that was down to a bad earth on the engine: https://www.scoobynet.com/881965-lar...6000rpm-2.html
I think really with this you need a scope: Back probe from injectors and coils to see what's going on...are coils losing power (hard cut, and unburnt fuel)? Are injectors being held fully open (soft cut and black smoke)?
Then check cam and crank sensor pattens at the ECU end.
As a basic guess I'm guessing you either have a bad earth somewhere or a high resistance on the wire that supplies power to the coils..so it can provide voltage/current at low engine speeds but can't provide enough to supply the coils at higher speeds. Excessive interference on cam/crank wires could be a possibility, but I'd expect Cam/crank sensor codes to be logged.
This guy in the following link had an issue where his ECU would just shut down at high engine speeds, then cut back in as it slows (photobucket killed the video
)...that was down to a bad earth on the engine: https://www.scoobynet.com/881965-lar...6000rpm-2.html
Then check cam and crank sensor pattens at the ECU end.
As a basic guess I'm guessing you either have a bad earth somewhere or a high resistance on the wire that supplies power to the coils..so it can provide voltage/current at low engine speeds but can't provide enough to supply the coils at higher speeds. Excessive interference on cam/crank wires could be a possibility, but I'd expect Cam/crank sensor codes to be logged.
This guy in the following link had an issue where his ECU would just shut down at high engine speeds, then cut back in as it slows (photobucket killed the video
)...that was down to a bad earth on the engine: https://www.scoobynet.com/881965-lar...6000rpm-2.htmluntill now I change crank sensor camshaft sensors, bypass boost controller bypass blowoff valve made a smoke test vacuum leak check alternator. Now I have to make a compression test and waiting for new oxygen sensor just to check but I've changed the oxygen before 2 months
I've check all the connections. Somebody says today it may be the speed sensor but if this goes bad will not trow a code ?
Thats what Alyn was checking I think when he asked if your speedo was working. If it is then can't see the speed sensor being the issue because you're getting a speed reading.
Rev counter looks like flicks back and forth quicker than the engine could possibly speed up or slow down. Hopefully this provides a clue? If rev counter is driven by ecu it could be sensor, ground or vcc supply? Just thinking if it's ignition or fuel related you'd not get the rev counter flickering around?
Rev counter looks like flicks back and forth quicker than the engine could possibly speed up or slow down. Hopefully this provides a clue? If rev counter is driven by ecu it could be sensor, ground or vcc supply? Just thinking if it's ignition or fuel related you'd not get the rev counter flickering around?
So guys here is another video the problem is worst after a long cruise on highway if I drive for 150 200km almost will not past 3000rpm I will attach link for video to see
https://streamable.com/f7k65a
https://streamable.com/f7k65a
Had a fresh import here a while ago some little Japanese fella had fitted toys as they do. Everything was working but threw a cel for vss.
Turns out they had spliced into the loom between the clocks and the ecu and when removing the said toys never bothered reconnecting the wires.
Check your vss at the ecu even if your clocks are working.
Turns out they had spliced into the loom between the clocks and the ecu and when removing the said toys never bothered reconnecting the wires.
Check your vss at the ecu even if your clocks are working.
Had a fresh import here a while ago some little Japanese fella had fitted toys as they do. Everything was working but threw a cel for vss.
Turns out they had spliced into the loom between the clocks and the ecu and when removing the said toys never bothered reconnecting the wires.
Check your vss at the ecu even if your clocks are working.
Turns out they had spliced into the loom between the clocks and the ecu and when removing the said toys never bothered reconnecting the wires.
Check your vss at the ecu even if your clocks are working.
Don't do that yet get a scope and check the signal into the ecu pinout first it could be a bad connection from the clocks to the ecu.
Last edited by 1509joe; Jan 6, 2022 at 03:15 PM.
Somebody suggested that the vss may be also connected to the rpm counter i don't know what to say but my speed is showing bang on I measure with my texa diagnostic. Also somebody says it may be the pill on the hose to the brake booster but I bypass that today and nothing changed lol I tried everything 😂
Somebody suggested that the vss may be also connected to the rpm counter i don't know what to say but my speed is showing bang on I measure with my texa diagnostic. Also somebody says it may be the pill on the hose to the brake booster but I bypass that today and nothing changed lol I tried everything 😂
Ok so now after 1hour off highway drive when I get in city driving slowly the car stop all lights was light on the dash and the engine died while in gear. I come to a stop turn off ignition car start again after few minutes died again while driving engine stop I had to stop wait a few seconds and then start again
Ok so now after 1hour off highway drive when I get in city driving slowly the car stop all lights was light on the dash and the engine died while in gear. I come to a stop turn off ignition car start again after few minutes died again while driving engine stop I had to stop wait a few seconds and then start again








