As the title really....

After a recent service the tick-over is a bit too low.. about 600rpm......

Cheers

JGM

 

Attach some old fishing leads to the accelerator so it is always depressed slightly - this also acts as an ALS.
Alternatively wait for the 'football'? match to finish and you may recieve less imaginative but more usefull answers LOL
Chuck

 

Cheers Chuck....

Football?? its 3-0 to Nigeria, no point watching it now..

Only kidding... still 0-0 at the moment...

Can nobody else do two things at once?

JGM

 

No, I had to sit down and type this!

 

So is sitting down and typing not doing two things at once?



Games over..................

 

Theres a screw on the bottom of the throttle body... it will be locked with a nut, this lets you set where the butterfly shuts, so presume this would do it.

David

 

The idle control valve deals with idle speed. As this is controlled by the ECU I guess it's an ECU input to adjust it ? Unless it's stuck ?

If you open the main butterfly, the idle valve shuts in to compensate and you get a strange surging when you come off the throttle.

 

This a MY96 UK Turbo by the way.

Can I just tighten the throttle cable slightly then?

It ticks over but wobbles occasionally but that is no problem but if you slow to near tick-over in first say finding a space in a busy carpark as you then apply throttle to move off it hessitates slightly.... I am just assuming they are related but might not be.

 

Might be worth checking your Lamda sensor output ?

 

How do I do that?

I also had a no boost situation the other day... foot on the throttle and the car just went phhhhhuuuuutttttttsssssssss like a beach ball deflating.. off throttle and back on and all fine.

Also when the engine is cold there is hessitation at light throttle below 3000rpm (dunno about above as I don't go there when cold). Runs fine when warmed up apart from what I have already mentioned.

Cheers

JGM

 

There is a wire that you can tap into at the ECU in the footwell(someone may have the pic showing the wire?) Measuring the voltage with a hand held multimeter will reveal if all is well or not.

When warm at idle the voltage should be hunting up and down between approx 200 and 800 mv. On load through the gears it should read fairly steady somewhere between 880 and 920 mv.

If it's hovering around the 300 mv mark it's U/S.

Halfords replacement is £50, about 1/2 price of scooby item although some have had them fail, my one has been fine for the past 6 months.

Andy

 

Okay sounds feasible... anyone supply me with an idiots guide to attaching the voltmetre and what setting to have it on? I have one I have borrowed from a mate for another job at the moment.

Cheers

JGM

 

You need it on the millivolts DC setting. Clip the earth lead to a sound earth on the vehicle. If the probe has a fine point you can just 'jag' it in through the insulation on the signal line.

See the other post current in Drivetrain for the pin out for the sensor signal line.

Andy

 

This translates to B43 Pin 6 (see below)



Thanks to Scott T

 

Make sure the voltmeter is digital - analog ones blow the sensor usually.

If there is no fault and you just want to adjust the idle speed the Select Monitor can do this in between resets on at least some model years, but usually you would only be doing this if you lightened things.

 

Cheers mate... it is stretching past my current knowledge but I shall try and give it a go!

JGM