How to bypass boost solenoid
Hi all
1997 jdm wrx
I'm having some overboost issues following install of new headers and up pipe. Also got a decat mid pipe on.
I want to bypass my boost solenoid to check the wastegate. Ive found out on these forums I need to run a hose from the turbo nipple to the wastegate. My question is do I need to put the restrictor pill in this piece of hose because it would normally be in circuit
Thanks
1997 jdm wrx
I'm having some overboost issues following install of new headers and up pipe. Also got a decat mid pipe on.
I want to bypass my boost solenoid to check the wastegate. Ive found out on these forums I need to run a hose from the turbo nipple to the wastegate. My question is do I need to put the restrictor pill in this piece of hose because it would normally be in circuit
Thanks
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adding unmapped mods not only causes issues and engines blowing up but also doesnt add any power as the car needs to be mapped to get any gains.
The decat midpipe was on the car when I bought it and I've only changed the headers and up pipe because the old ones were blowing badly. I know there's no gains from standard without having it remapped. I'm quite happy with how quick it is and putting a mbc on is purely to cure overboost until the funding comes my way for an ecu.
Is overboosting without a remap worse than a mbc for now?
Is overboosting without a remap worse than a mbc for now?
The perfect solution is to get a remap, but it's a costly prospect for an old car unless you are doing some major upgrades, IMO.
If it were me, I'd slap on a MBC at no more than 1.0bar and invest in some monitoring gear to make sure that the engine isn't detonating or running badly. Knocklink and wideband air/fuel gauge will let you know what's going on. Another option is to get it rolling road'ed and use the session to diagnose any potential problems.
If it were me, I'd slap on a MBC at no more than 1.0bar and invest in some monitoring gear to make sure that the engine isn't detonating or running badly. Knocklink and wideband air/fuel gauge will let you know what's going on. Another option is to get it rolling road'ed and use the session to diagnose any potential problems.
The perfect solution is to get a remap, but it's a costly prospect for an old car unless you are doing some major upgrades, IMO.
If it were me, I'd slap on a MBC at no more than 1.0bar and invest in some monitoring gear to make sure that the engine isn't detonating or running badly. Knocklink and wideband air/fuel gauge will let you know what's going on. Another option is to get it rolling road'ed and use the session to diagnose any potential problems.
If it were me, I'd slap on a MBC at no more than 1.0bar and invest in some monitoring gear to make sure that the engine isn't detonating or running badly. Knocklink and wideband air/fuel gauge will let you know what's going on. Another option is to get it rolling road'ed and use the session to diagnose any potential problems.
If I put a mbc on do I need to take out the restrictor pill?
Keep the pill in place, it helps the boost profile. If you must, fit the mbc and keep the boost down. Safest bet is probably to run it at wastegate pressure without any silly boost controllers until you can get the mapping issue dealt with. I have a 97 car too, ESL was the option I chose.
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