Hella supertones group buy ???
11 October 2013, 07:29 AM
#190
After a little searching I found this:
Hella Supertone Install
This will be a little bit of a work in progress.
Next one I do I will add pics.
This is the method to make the hellas add to your stock horns. I am sure there are several other choices and layouts.
Neither of these diagrams are mine.
The wires from lead 86 and 87 will be more like 4' long 30 and 85 will be short. I try to use Red for the positive and black for the rest.
BOM:
1 30 AMP Fuse block
1 crimp connector
12' black 16 ga wire
2' red 16 ga + wire
2 16 ga vampire connectors
3 crip eyelets with 1/4" holes or slightly bigger.
1 male spade connector red (16 ga)
8 female spade connectors red (16 ga)
I have taken to installing the Relay behind the driver’s side headlight. Should be dry and it is by the battery which you need for the positive and it makes the positive lead as short as possible.
1. Put an eye connector on one end of a fuse block. I would recommend a 30 AMP fuse in your positive line, if the relay shorts out the fuse or cutting the wires will be the only way to make them go off, and hellas going off in you garage will **** you off and wake the neighboors. Use a 2 way crimp connector to add wire to the fuse block to get the lead to the headlight area. Put a female spade on the end and go ahead and attach it to the relay on the lead marked “30” (you do not want a positive flopping around the engine bay.
2. Make a ground long enough to reach from the headlight area to the body ground next to the battery. Put and eye on one end and female spade on the other. Attach the female spade to the "85" lead on the relay, and the eyelet on said ground.
3. Run a wire from the relay area around the front of the radiator to the center post near the latch, make sure it will reach all the way to the left side of the latch by about 6”. Vampire split in a second wire at about the latch that is about 8” long. Put female spades on all three ends of this wire, attach the relay end to “87” let the other 2 hang for now.
4. Cut a 12” wire, vampire in a 6” split in the middle. Put spades on the paired ends and an eye on the single end.
5. Run a wire fron the relay to the right center stock horn. Put a female spade on the relay end and connect it to “86”. On the stock horn end add a MALE spade connector.
6. Unplug and remove the right center stock horn, retain the bolt and place the MALE spade into the stock female horn connector from the car's harness, in other words this is a lead taking the signal from the stock horn's location to the relay.
7. Connect to the back of the horns, one relay Y lead and one eyelet Y lead.
8. Lossen bolt holding the "chirper" (little black plastic thing opposite the right center horn) and mount one of the horns there sticking out left.
9. Take the stock horn bolt through the other horn and the Y eyelet and bolt up the right horn sticking out right. So bolt, horn, eyelet, car. (the eyelet is now the ground for both horns).
10. Honk the horn to test. Zip tie the relay to the hood release cable (black hard “wire” behind the headlight)
Optional, you can Y the other horns stock lead and mount the other stock horn to any grounded location. I have 4 stockers all in parallel.
Hella Supertone Install
This will be a little bit of a work in progress.
Next one I do I will add pics.
This is the method to make the hellas add to your stock horns. I am sure there are several other choices and layouts.
Neither of these diagrams are mine.
The wires from lead 86 and 87 will be more like 4' long 30 and 85 will be short. I try to use Red for the positive and black for the rest.
BOM:
1 30 AMP Fuse block
1 crimp connector
12' black 16 ga wire
2' red 16 ga + wire
2 16 ga vampire connectors
3 crip eyelets with 1/4" holes or slightly bigger.
1 male spade connector red (16 ga)
8 female spade connectors red (16 ga)
I have taken to installing the Relay behind the driver’s side headlight. Should be dry and it is by the battery which you need for the positive and it makes the positive lead as short as possible.
1. Put an eye connector on one end of a fuse block. I would recommend a 30 AMP fuse in your positive line, if the relay shorts out the fuse or cutting the wires will be the only way to make them go off, and hellas going off in you garage will **** you off and wake the neighboors. Use a 2 way crimp connector to add wire to the fuse block to get the lead to the headlight area. Put a female spade on the end and go ahead and attach it to the relay on the lead marked “30” (you do not want a positive flopping around the engine bay.
2. Make a ground long enough to reach from the headlight area to the body ground next to the battery. Put and eye on one end and female spade on the other. Attach the female spade to the "85" lead on the relay, and the eyelet on said ground.
3. Run a wire from the relay area around the front of the radiator to the center post near the latch, make sure it will reach all the way to the left side of the latch by about 6”. Vampire split in a second wire at about the latch that is about 8” long. Put female spades on all three ends of this wire, attach the relay end to “87” let the other 2 hang for now.
4. Cut a 12” wire, vampire in a 6” split in the middle. Put spades on the paired ends and an eye on the single end.
5. Run a wire fron the relay to the right center stock horn. Put a female spade on the relay end and connect it to “86”. On the stock horn end add a MALE spade connector.
6. Unplug and remove the right center stock horn, retain the bolt and place the MALE spade into the stock female horn connector from the car's harness, in other words this is a lead taking the signal from the stock horn's location to the relay.
7. Connect to the back of the horns, one relay Y lead and one eyelet Y lead.
8. Lossen bolt holding the "chirper" (little black plastic thing opposite the right center horn) and mount one of the horns there sticking out left.
9. Take the stock horn bolt through the other horn and the Y eyelet and bolt up the right horn sticking out right. So bolt, horn, eyelet, car. (the eyelet is now the ground for both horns).
10. Honk the horn to test. Zip tie the relay to the hood release cable (black hard “wire” behind the headlight)
Optional, you can Y the other horns stock lead and mount the other stock horn to any grounded location. I have 4 stockers all in parallel.
04 November 2013, 11:13 AM
#200
JohnD
04 November 2013, 09:18 PM
#205
Nope polarity on the back of the horns doesn't matter ,
See post #51 back on page 2 , it's an install guide I did when I first ran the gb on these , iirc I listed what pins/connections are what and where and how lol ,
I'll repost if need be
See post #51 back on page 2 , it's an install guide I did when I first ran the gb on these , iirc I listed what pins/connections are what and where and how lol ,
I'll repost if need be
