Problems with new Exedy stage1 organic clutch..
01 January 2013, 11:05 AM
#31
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I've also done some research into lightened flywheels on some of the USA forums and the consensus is that of you go below 13lbs or so then you'll get drive train vibration and snatchy clutch engagement.
It's something to do with the flywheels mass/weight dampening the rotational force of the crankshaft or such like.
Apparently the Exedy lightweight flywheel is only 9lbs in weight and can also bring on phantom CEL errors as well.
It's something to do with the flywheels mass/weight dampening the rotational force of the crankshaft or such like.
Apparently the Exedy lightweight flywheel is only 9lbs in weight and can also bring on phantom CEL errors as well.
02 January 2013, 10:30 AM
#32
we had slight judder on the v1sti but that was because it had only done 50 mls before it had a 3hrs on the rollers
but on the way home it cured itself 
that particular scoobys been running 345 for the past 1k with no further ,issues apart from eating 2 5speeds and is now running a 6 speed
cheers clive
02 January 2013, 01:32 PM
#33
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got an excedy pink in my sti, to be fair its crap,will be sorting and fitting a helix one in the near future as i had one in my old wrx and didn't have any issues, yes there pricey but id rather pay it than have no faith in my car, excedy are mass produced, helix are hand made,says it all really
03 January 2013, 01:03 PM
#34
Hi all,
Just had new Exedy stage1 organic clutch and lightened flywheel fitted to my 2005 WRX wagon and have 2 issues...
First is a serious judder when engaging gears and pulling off. Told it was due to the higher friction material grabbing more and will bed in after 500 miles.
Second is very high biting point - higher than the old clutch that came off.. told they tried 2 flywheels and this was the higher of the 2. Also told the biting point will lower once everything beds in.
Part numbers on the Exedy boxes are
CC ASY = FC04T
CD ASY = FD08H
Anyone with similar experiences of Exedy Stage1 organic clutches with lightened flywheels?
Planning on doing 500 miles next weekend to see if its true and if not returning the car for a new clutch..
Just had new Exedy stage1 organic clutch and lightened flywheel fitted to my 2005 WRX wagon and have 2 issues...
First is a serious judder when engaging gears and pulling off. Told it was due to the higher friction material grabbing more and will bed in after 500 miles.
Second is very high biting point - higher than the old clutch that came off.. told they tried 2 flywheels and this was the higher of the 2. Also told the biting point will lower once everything beds in.
Part numbers on the Exedy boxes are
CC ASY = FC04T
CD ASY = FD08H
Anyone with similar experiences of Exedy Stage1 organic clutches with lightened flywheels?
Planning on doing 500 miles next weekend to see if its true and if not returning the car for a new clutch..
You have the full on race version, it will judder. Exedy addressed this issue and brought out an anti-judder version which is lovely to drive and good for 400bhp.
We advise our customers correctly and supply the correct parts for the given applications. As a result, Exedy is the most reliable clutch brand we have come across.
Have a word with however supplied you.
03 January 2013, 01:08 PM
#35
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Therein lies the problem.
You have the full on race version, it will judder. Exedy addressed this issue and brought out an anti-judder version which is lovely to drive and good for 400bhp.
We advise our customers correctly and supply the correct parts for the given applications. As a result, Exedy is the most reliable clutch brand we have come across.
Have a word with however supplied you.
You have the full on race version, it will judder. Exedy addressed this issue and brought out an anti-judder version which is lovely to drive and good for 400bhp.
We advise our customers correctly and supply the correct parts for the given applications. As a result, Exedy is the most reliable clutch brand we have come across.
Have a word with however supplied you.
I've got a pink box sat here, but a bit worried whether or not to risk getting it fitted
Cheers
03 January 2013, 01:17 PM
#36
On the box you should have a barcoded label with the name of the Exedy stockist whom the clutch was sold to and the following part number: FK01H1601.
Exedy have a bulletin out there about fakes, so there is plenty about.
We are official Exedy dealers and the quoted part number is just £255.99 inc VAT.
Let me know if you need any further info.
Exedy have a bulletin out there about fakes, so there is plenty about.
We are official Exedy dealers and the quoted part number is just £255.99 inc VAT.
Let me know if you need any further info.
05 January 2013, 04:34 PM
#37
Hi
Supposedly was fitted with new clutch and new lightened flywheel
And yes the adjustment under the clutch pedal was miles off causing some problems + clutch return spring not fitted correctly.
The Sunderland based tuner (who fitted the clutch and did timing belt change at the same time) have offered to exchange the clutch and flywheel for another. I may give them this opportunity as I am quite litigious and the best way to succeed in the small claims court (and thus get the money back for someone to do the job 'correctly') is to give them a 2nd opportunity to fix the problem.
I am expecting some initial judder - but have requested an H1 (non-judder) version to be fitted, and stipulated biting point needs to be 'mid point' or lower. If its not I'll take it to Alyn at AS Performance to fix and make a small claims court claim for the cost against Exxxxxxx who fitted.
Not sure if I can / will accept the noise during coasting with no throttle between 2-3k revs as I didn't realise how often I coast the car until you sound like a cement mixer when you do. Anyone else have this problem with Exedy and lightened flywheels (there are some stories like this on USA sites).
Supposedly was fitted with new clutch and new lightened flywheel
And yes the adjustment under the clutch pedal was miles off causing some problems + clutch return spring not fitted correctly.
The Sunderland based tuner (who fitted the clutch and did timing belt change at the same time) have offered to exchange the clutch and flywheel for another. I may give them this opportunity as I am quite litigious and the best way to succeed in the small claims court (and thus get the money back for someone to do the job 'correctly') is to give them a 2nd opportunity to fix the problem.
I am expecting some initial judder - but have requested an H1 (non-judder) version to be fitted, and stipulated biting point needs to be 'mid point' or lower. If its not I'll take it to Alyn at AS Performance to fix and make a small claims court claim for the cost against Exxxxxxx who fitted.
Not sure if I can / will accept the noise during coasting with no throttle between 2-3k revs as I didn't realise how often I coast the car until you sound like a cement mixer when you do. Anyone else have this problem with Exedy and lightened flywheels (there are some stories like this on USA sites).
if you have this noise you will know what i mean.
I am waiting to take it back to Ryan and see what he thinks
05 January 2013, 06:19 PM
#38
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Noise on deceleration / coasting
This is certainly because the flywheel is too light (less than 13lbs = 6.5kg). Seems the only solution is heavier flywheel or live with it....
Must admit I feel that the '100's of similar Exedy clutches' that this company claim to have fitted and never had a problem with ......
Must admit I feel that the '100's of similar Exedy clutches' that this company claim to have fitted and never had a problem with ......
05 January 2013, 06:59 PM
#39
I don't see the point of having oem flywheels skimmed, been there done that.
Mine lasted a 1000miles then started vibrating again. When the flywheels get cooked/warped they get little cracks on the friction face and skimming does not remove these.
I now have a 5speed exedy stage 1 organic anti judder with a fidanza 5.5kg flywheel which was supplied with the grease and spigot bearing also fitted new crank seal while at it all fitted by myself with no issues running 350bhp.
05 January 2013, 07:34 PM
#40
This is the signs of a warped flywheel.
I don't see the point of having oem flywheels skimmed, been there done that.
Mine lasted a 1000miles then started vibrating again. When the flywheels get cooked/warped they get little cracks on the friction face and skimming does not remove these.
I now have a 5speed exedy stage 1 organic anti judder with a fidanza 5.5kg flywheel which was supplied with the grease and spigot bearing also fitted new crank seal while at it all fitted by myself with no issues running 350bhp.
I don't see the point of having oem flywheels skimmed, been there done that.
Mine lasted a 1000miles then started vibrating again. When the flywheels get cooked/warped they get little cracks on the friction face and skimming does not remove these.
I now have a 5speed exedy stage 1 organic anti judder with a fidanza 5.5kg flywheel which was supplied with the grease and spigot bearing also fitted new crank seal while at it all fitted by myself with no issues running 350bhp.
05 January 2013, 07:56 PM
#41
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I was told the helix is an exedy clutch but they modify them. mechanic who fitted mine also said the helix was a very good clutch very light & smooth,until he mentioned it i wouldnt have thought about using a helix.live & learn.
05 January 2013, 10:01 PM
#42
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This is the signs of a warped flywheel.
I don't see the point of having oem flywheels skimmed, been there done that.
Mine lasted a 1000miles then started vibrating again. When the flywheels get cooked/warped they get little cracks on the friction face and skimming does not remove these.
I now have a 5speed exedy stage 1 organic anti judder with a fidanza 5.5kg flywheel which was supplied with the grease and spigot bearing also fitted new crank seal while at it all fitted by myself with no issues running 350bhp.
I don't see the point of having oem flywheels skimmed, been there done that.
Mine lasted a 1000miles then started vibrating again. When the flywheels get cooked/warped they get little cracks on the friction face and skimming does not remove these.
I now have a 5speed exedy stage 1 organic anti judder with a fidanza 5.5kg flywheel which was supplied with the grease and spigot bearing also fitted new crank seal while at it all fitted by myself with no issues running 350bhp.
So either some or all of these may be causing my problems
Thanks for the help - now just got to tell the garage what they need to do - if they don't then I'll inform everyone which garages to avoid !
1) the 'new' flywheel is warped
2) Anti judder clutch version NOT used (sure about this)
3) Spigot bearing not replaced
4) Crank seal not replaced
5) Flywheel weight (Fidanza website shows 9.5lbs [4.3kg] flywheel)
07 January 2013, 03:06 PM
#43
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I have said before, many times, that not all 'Exedy ' clutches are genuine Exedy, they seem to be very good copies made wherever [ China usually gets blamed ]
We stopped selling them many years ago for that very reason, despite the fact that the ones we sold were brought in by us from a Bona Fide dealer in Japan via APi Japan. I.E. we had total confidence that we were getting genuine Exedy.
We figured that the reputation was ruined and it'd take a while for it to be forgotten.
The problem seems to be as bad as ever. However, you do need to make sure that the pedal travel is set correctly to get proper operation of the clutch. lt is easy enough to do under the dash.
The 'cement mixer ' noise as described when coasting or overrun is called Clutch Thrash and is the torque springs in the friction disc doing their job. It is very annoying and can happen no matter which flywheel you have. We have seen and heard it on all types of cars and installations.
It is a noise that will eventually settle down or you become less sensitive to it. The problem for us fitters is that a different clutch may make more noise or the same at a different frequency.
We now use "Comp Clutch" which are definitely sharp in operation until bedded in and that can be 5 or 600 miles. BUT, I have never heard clutch thrash from one yet. All of our [ sometimes very skeptical ] customers, that have commented on the sharpness and judder, have agreed that it does bed in well and then they don't even notice the clutch at all, even in city driving.
I have no axe to grind with Exedy, they are a well known worldwide brand, but as far as fitting garages are concerned, we rarely get paid by either the supplier [ or the customer ] if one needs to get changed under guarantee. So, as we don't like working for nothing, we changed brands.
Daikin Corporation are the makers of just about every clutch made and used in Japan, for all makes of cars. It is the Borg & Beck of Japan. Thus, all Exedy clutches will have a Daikin logo on them somewhere.
In fact, even AP Racing until recently, used the original Daikin metal cover for their uprated clutches. The reason being that tooling up for a cover was expensive and there was / is nothing wrong with the Daikin original.
I feel sorry for all you guys with juddery clutches, you need to be talking to your suppliers, but as said in posts above, if you didn't fit a new or at least skimmed flywheel, at the same time as the new clutch, there is no one that will honour a warranty. [ in my experience ]
Good luck fella's
We stopped selling them many years ago for that very reason, despite the fact that the ones we sold were brought in by us from a Bona Fide dealer in Japan via APi Japan. I.E. we had total confidence that we were getting genuine Exedy.
We figured that the reputation was ruined and it'd take a while for it to be forgotten.
The problem seems to be as bad as ever. However, you do need to make sure that the pedal travel is set correctly to get proper operation of the clutch. lt is easy enough to do under the dash.
The 'cement mixer ' noise as described when coasting or overrun is called Clutch Thrash and is the torque springs in the friction disc doing their job. It is very annoying and can happen no matter which flywheel you have. We have seen and heard it on all types of cars and installations.
It is a noise that will eventually settle down or you become less sensitive to it. The problem for us fitters is that a different clutch may make more noise or the same at a different frequency.
We now use "Comp Clutch" which are definitely sharp in operation until bedded in and that can be 5 or 600 miles. BUT, I have never heard clutch thrash from one yet. All of our [ sometimes very skeptical ] customers, that have commented on the sharpness and judder, have agreed that it does bed in well and then they don't even notice the clutch at all, even in city driving.
I have no axe to grind with Exedy, they are a well known worldwide brand, but as far as fitting garages are concerned, we rarely get paid by either the supplier [ or the customer ] if one needs to get changed under guarantee. So, as we don't like working for nothing, we changed brands.
Daikin Corporation are the makers of just about every clutch made and used in Japan, for all makes of cars. It is the Borg & Beck of Japan. Thus, all Exedy clutches will have a Daikin logo on them somewhere.
In fact, even AP Racing until recently, used the original Daikin metal cover for their uprated clutches. The reason being that tooling up for a cover was expensive and there was / is nothing wrong with the Daikin original.
I feel sorry for all you guys with juddery clutches, you need to be talking to your suppliers, but as said in posts above, if you didn't fit a new or at least skimmed flywheel, at the same time as the new clutch, there is no one that will honour a warranty. [ in my experience ]
Good luck fella's
Last edited by APIDavid; 07 January 2013 at 03:11 PM.
07 January 2013, 06:24 PM
#44
Rich @ FB Tuning fitted my Stage 1 Exedy pink on my Blob STI.
I bought a pink box kit from Scoobyworld, and a lightened flywheel from Lateral (Rich recommended I go no lighter than 7kg on a car used predominantly on the road; the Lateral one I bought was 6.7kg and I've had no issues from it; Rich did the recommended Exedy slave cylinder modification and also adjusted the pedal properly after fitting the clutch and flywheel (which came with a new spigot bearing).
In fairness, I've noticed NONE of the problematic characteristics cited above; although initially it took some getting used to due to the additional stiffness of the pedal (stalled it the first time ), it's now like driving on a standard clutch, albeit it with a slightly stiffer pedal, but seriously it's fine.
Scoobyworld said to me when I bought the clutch kit that 8/10 cars they fit clutches to required a replacement flywheel - mine was no different - it was properly knackered, and would have required skimming, hence I just bought the Lateral one.
3000 miles in and it's running absolutely great and I have no noise, judder or excessive vibration.
If Bob's found the part number you listed is the full on race version I'd go back and ask them why they fitted a race clutch to a road car!
I bought a pink box kit from Scoobyworld, and a lightened flywheel from Lateral (Rich recommended I go no lighter than 7kg on a car used predominantly on the road; the Lateral one I bought was 6.7kg and I've had no issues from it; Rich did the recommended Exedy slave cylinder modification and also adjusted the pedal properly after fitting the clutch and flywheel (which came with a new spigot bearing).
In fairness, I've noticed NONE of the problematic characteristics cited above; although initially it took some getting used to due to the additional stiffness of the pedal (stalled it the first time
), it's now like driving on a standard clutch, albeit it with a slightly stiffer pedal, but seriously it's fine.Scoobyworld said to me when I bought the clutch kit that 8/10 cars they fit clutches to required a replacement flywheel - mine was no different - it was properly knackered, and would have required skimming, hence I just bought the Lateral one.
3000 miles in and it's running absolutely great and I have no noise, judder or excessive vibration.
If Bob's found the part number you listed is the full on race version I'd go back and ask them why they fitted a race clutch to a road car!
Last edited by MrNoisy; 07 January 2013 at 06:26 PM.
08 January 2013, 06:29 PM
#46
Therein lies the problem.
You have the full on race version, it will judder. Exedy addressed this issue and brought out an anti-judder version which is lovely to drive and good for 400bhp.
We advise our customers correctly and supply the correct parts for the given applications. As a result, Exedy is the most reliable clutch brand we have come across.
Have a word with however supplied you.
You have the full on race version, it will judder. Exedy addressed this issue and brought out an anti-judder version which is lovely to drive and good for 400bhp.
We advise our customers correctly and supply the correct parts for the given applications. As a result, Exedy is the most reliable clutch brand we have come across.
Have a word with however supplied you.
I've actually with my own eyes watched a bog standard exedy clutch fitted to a 400hp evo abused sinse day 1 and that was 3 years ago and it's still going strong there product is very very good.
Dave
Last edited by wrx271; 08 January 2013 at 06:33 PM.
08 January 2013, 09:07 PM
#47
Here you go mate, it's basically modifying the clutch delay valve to allow the clutch to engage immediately.
http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...hOrficeWRX.pdf
http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...hOrficeWRX.pdf
Last edited by MrNoisy; 08 January 2013 at 09:08 PM.
09 January 2013, 09:30 AM
#48
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Never ever needed to do that. In any case it only applies to 6 speed cars and it seems from the above that most cars are 5 speed cars.
09 January 2013, 10:14 AM
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Here you go mate, it's basically modifying the clutch delay valve to allow the clutch to engage immediately.
http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...hOrficeWRX.pdf
http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...hOrficeWRX.pdf
09 January 2013, 04:19 PM
#50
You get a more "direct" feel to the clutch, and there's no delay in between you dropping your foot and the clutch engaging.
With the standard slave cylinder there's a spring which basically delays the clutch from engaging quickly to protect the clutch from premature wear and too aggressive a start.
With the standard slave cylinder there's a spring which basically delays the clutch from engaging quickly to protect the clutch from premature wear and too aggressive a start.
29 January 2013, 09:36 PM
#51
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So before I could get the company that did the work (and were going to refit my OEM flywheel after giving it rub over with emery paper [their exact words !] the clutch gave up the ghost in the snow.
So towed car to local Subaru expert (who I so wish I had used first time
) who are tasked with repairing the clutch and checking the other work carried out.
1) Clutch cover plate obviously not new) lot number will be checked with the box via Exedy) and possible not correct for the clutch plate, but since this guy only uses the H1 version of the clutch nothing to compare against...
Excessive wear on clutch plate for 1000miles / 8 weeks - maybe a S/H unit... again lot numbers should hopefully prove something here....
Next the flywheel is obviously crap - with heat spots all over the surface, light weight and poor quality (looks for 'Made In China Sold as American' sticker.
And good job I got the other work checked - the timing belt was just about to fail after 1000miles and 8 weeks due to incorrect installation - a tensioner size mark worn on the back of the belt almost all the way through.
Oh yes and the gearbox bellhousing dowel location has been damaged (shiny metal obvious) but impossible to prove....
Now of course went back to the initial company (couldn't get the car there because of the distance involved, and also bargepole related issues after their threats to emery paper my flywheel) and they claim 'nothing wrong'.
Given them one more chance to fess up and at least pay me for the crap parts they have supplied (£295 clutch, £200 flywheel, £100 timing belt). If they don't pay I'll name and shame, and try claim from credit card protection.
On the positive side, AFP TD05-20G, 650cc injectors, etc now fitted and trip to AF planned for birthday on Monday - and a the confidence in the clutch / timing belt to support things....
So towed car to local Subaru expert (who I so wish I had used first time
) who are tasked with repairing the clutch and checking the other work carried out.
1) Clutch cover plate obviously not new) lot number will be checked with the box via Exedy) and possible not correct for the clutch plate, but since this guy only uses the H1 version of the clutch nothing to compare against...
Excessive wear on clutch plate for 1000miles / 8 weeks - maybe a S/H unit... again lot numbers should hopefully prove something here....
Next the flywheel is obviously crap - with heat spots all over the surface, light weight and poor quality (looks for 'Made In China Sold as American' sticker.
And good job I got the other work checked - the timing belt was just about to fail after 1000miles and 8 weeks due to incorrect installation - a tensioner size mark worn on the back of the belt almost all the way through.
Oh yes and the gearbox bellhousing dowel location has been damaged (shiny metal obvious) but impossible to prove....
Now of course went back to the initial company (couldn't get the car there because of the distance involved, and also bargepole related issues after their threats to emery paper my flywheel) and they claim 'nothing wrong'.
Given them one more chance to fess up and at least pay me for the crap parts they have supplied (£295 clutch, £200 flywheel, £100 timing belt). If they don't pay I'll name and shame, and try claim from credit card protection.
On the positive side, AFP TD05-20G, 650cc injectors, etc now fitted and trip to AF planned for birthday on Monday - and a the confidence in the clutch / timing belt to support things....
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