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My Classic scoob...

Old Sep 10, 2013 | 08:25 PM
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Jesus! I bet it shifts! what does it look like now?
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 08:37 PM
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Pretty much the same
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwik
Jesus! I bet it shifts! what does it look like now?
It does indeed shift, although it is not running right at the minute, i need to have a look and find out what is going on with it because its spluttery and rough!

Will get underneath her tomorrow and have a look i hope.

But here she is at the last drag day launching off the line with the suspension on the drag setting, (notice it dropping at the back)





Engine pic -



The parts i have bought for my new workshop i have just got, compressor, full set of air tools, high lift jacks, a big parts wash/degreaser etc, just need a 2 post ramp now.



New exhaust manifold before wrapping -



and after wrapping -



Outside engine tuner ready for manifold fitting and remapping with the alkatek upgrade etc!




And i have a video i shall try and put up of how it is running at the minute i found a breather pipe had come off from the catch can to the inlet pipe on the turbo so i have replaced that and will see what happens tomorrow!
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 09:34 PM
  #34  
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/8cucguuywu...0910-00000.MP4

it is a bad video but that is the exhaust "popping" not a "knocking"type noise lol
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:45 PM
  #35  
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SO latest update is with the car in my workshop and been free to tinker with it whenever i have time, i have started replacing nuts and bolts with stainless/zinc plated where applicable.

I have started painting brackets and other engine bay bits including the bonnet catch, fuse box brackets, map sensor brackets etc.

I have spent a while re-routing pipes and what not trying to find the best and tidiest way for them,

and tomorrow i will be making up a custom bracket for my boost controller on my DV.

And possibly cleaning up the k -sport calipers
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 03:01 PM
  #36  
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So, I have a coolant leak on the pipe from the heater matrix to the ICV, so I am going to remove the pipe work through the ICV and TB and just cap it off on the pipe close to the block. I got these off ebay as they look like they will do the trick!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3210547643...84.m1439.l2649
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #37  
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Righty,

Well as they say, it never rains but it pours!

Turbo needs a rebuild, smoking like a good'un!

One of the rear pads has made a break for it! So thats disappeared!

Both rear Tein coilovers are leaking.



Righty, So the questions are,

Where can i get the coilovers rebuilt?

and the most important one,

I have ksports on the front, 8pots, i think the 356mm kit but i'll have to measure and check.. Now the front stops perfectly, once you have some temperature in them it really does slam your face on the windscreen.

The only issue is it makes the rear go light as they are just standard subaru two pots on the rear.

So, i need an upgrade, would decent rear pads and some grooved discs work better? Or am i looking at the brembo upgrade or just getting a ksport 4 pot kit for the rear?

any advice?
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Righty,

Well as they say, it never rains but it pours!

Turbo needs a rebuild, smoking like a good'un!

One of the rear pads has made a break for it! So thats disappeared!

Both rear Tein coilovers are leaking.



Righty, So the questions are,

Where can i get the coilovers rebuilt?

and the most important one,

I have ksports on the front, 8pots, i think the 356mm kit but i'll have to measure and check.. Now the front stops perfectly, once you have some temperature in them it really does slam your face on the windscreen.

The only issue is it makes the rear go light as they are just standard subaru two pots on the rear.

So, i need an upgrade, would decent rear pads and some grooved discs work better? Or am i looking at the brembo upgrade or just getting a ksport 4 pot kit for the rear?

any advice?
Dont really think pads and discs will make a huge difference as it didnt on mine, i went for newage rear hubs and newage brembos. Depends on what you are using now.

Have you tried seeing if there is any air in lines at the rear? also do you have braided lines?

What discs and pads are you running at the moment? As if they are budget then that will be an issue.

Maybe see if any of the pots on the rears are slightly seized..

Just a few thoughts if not already thought of
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 05:09 PM
  #39  
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I've always been advised to upgrade the front and rear brakes in a way that maintains the origional front to rear difference in size\capabilities, so perhaps the K Sports would be the optimum solution? Or look at PF disk and pad upgrade for Brembo rears...I guess its all down to the cost.

Left field solution would be maybe to fit a brake bias adjuster and see if you can dial them into performing the way you want them too?

Last edited by trails; Oct 10, 2013 at 05:30 PM. Reason: front not from
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Yeah i shall check this out i stripped them down just now so everything is apart so i can look for what is the cause of it.

I already have a 6sp conversion so brembos shouldnt be an issue i dont think? but again they are only 2 pot with a slightly larger disc, and the cost of that i may aswell go 320mm ksport 4 pot?

Braided lines all round and no air

one dust seal seems to have a split in the the disappeared pad and that was only rubbing half the pad, so im thinking that caliper is dead
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 05:23 PM
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KSport rear 4 pots would be my advice to be your next purchase to balance up your braking power,as it sounds like your rears cannot keep up with the fronts as things are,performance friction don't make a disc for Brembo 2 pot rear callipers so forget that idea and just bite the bullet and get the KSport 4 pot rears.SJ.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 05:29 PM
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Nice easy way to spend someone elses money
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #43  
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Haha, It is so nice and simple

Well, i have one pad which has disappeared on the drivers side rear, all other pads are in decent condition with plenty of meat left on them.

So I have diagnosed it as the rear inside piston on the caliper is sticking and not releasing properly after the foot is off the pedal.

So to rectify the nice groove cut into the disc and what not i require -

Decent discs, Decent Pads, and a caliper rebuild.

Now weighing up the cost of this, is probably easily half of the cost of a ksport 304mm rear conversion....

So its really will the 2 pots and the decent pads and disc be good enough?
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #44  
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Wow i got something partly right for once..

The rear 2pot subaru brakes should be sufficiant i would of thought, but even with my brembos all round i am not really that happy with them, but they are better than my two pots on the front and one on the rear i had before, only other thing to possibily try next would be brake cylinder, change for a newage one as they are slightly bigger.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 04:28 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Tyler 1
Wow i got something partly right for once..

The rear 2pot subaru brakes should be sufficiant i would of thought, but even with my brembos all round i am not really that happy with them, but they are better than my two pots on the front and one on the rear i had before, only other thing to possibily try next would be brake cylinder, change for a newage one as they are slightly bigger.
Haha, wasnt a bd shout

Well, yes, but then its a caliper refurb, pads, discs, and a cylinder, I personally see that costing upwards of £400

its £250 for discs and pads from godspeed.

So does anyone have any idea on how much a caliper refurb is? As that is cheaper than i expected
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by trails
Nice easy way to spend someone elses money
well he asked for opinions so I gave mine,it's better then telling him to drill a hole in his floor pan so that he can fit his feet through with a pair of boots on so they touch the floor to brake with like the flintstones just to save him some cashSJ.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 05:10 PM
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Simple but effective SJ, I think I will go for that solution!

Im not one for spending money on things when it is not required, but also not one for spending money twice on stuff.

Ideally need to research and see what other people are using on the rear as if the 2 pots will work well and i can save some cash then ideal...
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 08:24 PM
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Not sure on the rears but pretty sure when I done my old four pots it was around the £120 mark. Can not remember 100% though as was a long time ago. So can not see them being too much. Unless you go for having them painted as well as that was £250 but that again was for the front
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 08:29 PM
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Yes I hear yah mate but brakes is one area that I would rather have too much stopping power then not enough if you get my drift as long as the rears are balanced with the front and not under braking your set up will work fine.SJ.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 03:42 PM
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True enough, any more braking force would give more confidence when screaming up to bends to literally wait until the very last second to brake!
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Simple but effective SJ, I think I will go for that solution!

Im not one for spending money on things when it is not required, but also not one for spending money twice on stuff.

Ideally need to research and see what other people are using on the rear as if the 2 pots will work well and i can save some cash then ideal...
Spot on
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by stonejedi
Yes I hear yah mate but brakes is one area that I would rather have too much stopping power then not enough if you get my drift as long as the rears are balanced with the front and not under braking your set up will work fine.SJ.
Amen......

But also don't forget it's only as good as the rubber you have on the wheels too.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 09:31 PM
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I have 532hp, the rubber will do me an 11.6 1/4 mile i think im alright

Although to be honest since upping the power to 485 on low boost i think i need wider wheels or i will be looking at semi slicks just for every day use, which isnt what i want.

So will be getting some 9.75" wheels all round with Toyo T4R's on
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
I have 532hp, the rubber will do me an 11.6 1/4 mile i think im alright

Although to be honest since upping the power to 485 on low boost i think i need wider wheels or i will be looking at semi slicks just for every day use, which isnt what i want.

So will be getting some 9.75" wheels all round with Toyo T4R's on
I would love some wider wheels but prob is I don't want them to rub, and also don't want coilovers as love my spine the way it is.. Lol.... And even though I love the arch kit I could not come to grinding my arches to fit the extensions.. Even though I would love to..
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:09 AM
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Haha,

I will be cutting the arches out for some 17x9.75 Rota T2R's from M444gy,

I will then fit an ABW wide arch kit,

So with some decent Toyo T4Rs on the 9.75s for every day driving should stop it been "twitchy" the extra power has really found the limit on road driving for these tyres, and i dont want semi slicks for every day use, so wider wheels to give me a bigger contact should be the solution!

For the racing etc the slicks on the 17x7.5 seem to do the trick still so i shall keep that set up until i need new slicks at the end of next year

and as for coilovers I have Tein monoflex (i think, the ub3r expensive ones what ever model they are) with the EDFC coputer controlled in cabin dampers, and even on the soft settings the Mrs ***** try and make a break for it over the bumps! She wont let me drive it with them on the hard setting haha!

Again the hard setting makes it unuseable for the road, its just too stiff lol, for a nice smooth track it works perfectly, but on road you just end up hopping across the bumps and cocking wheels in bends lol

Last edited by JGlanzaV; Oct 13, 2013 at 09:11 AM.
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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Mine had monoflex on it before I had the car and my forst memory of seeing a mate driving it was it cocking a wheel going into a t junction at about 15mph! Ridiculously stiff on its worst/best setting
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Haha,

I will be cutting the arches out for some 17x9.75 Rota T2R's from M444gy,

I will then fit an ABW wide arch kit,

So with some decent Toyo T4Rs on the 9.75s for every day driving should stop it been "twitchy" the extra power has really found the limit on road driving for these tyres, and i dont want semi slicks for every day use, so wider wheels to give me a bigger contact should be the solution!

For the racing etc the slicks on the 17x7.5 seem to do the trick still so i shall keep that set up until i need new slicks at the end of next year

and as for coilovers I have Tein monoflex (i think, the ub3r expensive ones what ever model they are) with the EDFC coputer controlled in cabin dampers, and even on the soft settings the Mrs ***** try and make a break for it over the bumps! She wont let me drive it with them on the hard setting haha!

Again the hard setting makes it unuseable for the road, its just too stiff lol, for a nice smooth track it works perfectly, but on road you just end up hopping across the bumps and cocking wheels in bends lol


Wish I could afford those coilovers, don't they cost a small fortune?
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:31 PM
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Im led to believe they do! Yep thats it, on the hard setting it is cocking wheels and skipping all over the place on the road, especially with the roll cage and all the struts etc,

So yes, will be making a decision this week about the brakes!

Where would ig et my coilovers rebuilt?
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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So, I have spent all week sourcing parts, and sorting out some funds so I can come up with a plan for the scooby...

I picked up a set of rear 290mm 2pot brakes with brand new discs and pads for a bargain price, that was an easy decision to make with the conundrum I was having ith the rear brakes, I found some old track pictures of my car with the set up of it chasing a GTR round track with glowing discs all round.

So when working properly they have been adequate in the past, so I shall stick with that!

So the next issues are a turbo rebuild, rear coilover rebuilds, and a gearbox rebuild.

The turbo rebuild I am just going for the standard s206 spec as to be honest at 485hp with no meth it is plenty fast enough for the road, so at most I would be gaining a few HP for track use, which probably isnt needed.

The main job is to get the gearbox rebuilt so to offset not making the extra power from the turbo I shall just engage my flat foot shifting on the alkatek ecu

Coilovers are the main sting in the tail though, looking at £700+VAT for just the rear two!
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 09:02 PM
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Will you be billeting the 206 when getting it rebuilt?
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