Dnalunchie

do you have a link to one that would suit for my model?

Rob Day

iTrader: (78)

TGV tumble generator valves, people actual remove these, so the fact that yours won't have them is a bonus. They are known as restrictive when power hunting so people take the inlet manifold off and delete them by taking them apart and filling or tapping the holes shut resulting in a smoother air travel through the manifold.

Dnalunchie

ah ok, what models do they come in?

jura11

iTrader: (7)

UK or EDM/USDM models has come with TGV,on JDM you have TGVless manifold(One piece manifold without the TGV)


Jura

Dnalunchie

ah ok, thanks for that. I seem to remember early RS legacys (JDM) came with something sounding similar in their camshafts that limited power output so I thought it might be the same

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Be very careful before you waste a lot of money.

1) Determine exactly what turbo you have. If it is a twin scroll O/E Subaru item then your headers, and uppipe are quite adequate for what you require to 320 bhp and well past. It may be a twin scroll VF37 or similar.
2) Your O/E airbox is good to a long way past 350 bhp. Some are running this at 400 bhp plus.
There is nothing wrong with the O/E Subaru air filter, just change it twice per service interval or invest in a K+N and clean it every 3-5,000 mls., especially in dusty conditions.
3) Your existing injectors are good to a comfortable 370 F.W. bhp. Do not replace injectors unless you are going for a bigger twin scroll turbo.
4) If you are going past 320 bhp fit a New Walbro GS342 fuel pump now. This is a direct replacement. No need to do anything with the FPR.
5) An aftermarket 3" exhaust is an investment for future performance upgrades. Go for as straight a system as you can get, fully decatted. Remember shipping cost from the UK for an exhaust may be prohibitive.
6) Find your local Ecutek mapper with specific Subaru knowledge. choose your mapper well and he must have Subaru experience, preferably on Jap twin scroll setups. He will have a wealth of local knowledge as to source of parts, exhaust systems etc.
7) If an inlet tract is "sucking in" the filter on the end of it is too small, it is dirty or there is some other inlet tract restriction.
You do not need to replace the inlet tract until a long way past your current goals.

Dnalunchie

thanks for that mate, I will have a look a look and go from there. I am going to do the exhaust and remap first and see how that feels. I may find that is enough on its own and instead spend the the 2-3k on a holiday somewhere warmer

Bare in mind the turbo alone will cost around $3.500 in NZD which is a ton of money considering the car costs around 20k

Dnalunchie

I checked and its a VF37

Chelstrueblue

Is that VF49 still avalible and is it direct replacement for MY03 JDM sti

Rob Day

iTrader: (78)

Yes it's still available.

The VF49 is off a JDM 08 Impreza STi hatch, and will fit other twin scrolls.

Rob

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Good. Your VF37 without any replacement injectors will take you close to your 380 bhp goal. A mapper with experience of the VF37 will be better able to confirm what these are good for. The next stage becomes expensive because you have the cost of injectors plus turbo. In the UK a new turbo upgrade would be around £1500 plus taxes. If you are going that route in time also look at what is available from Australia and Japan including secondhand if there is no doubt as to its probity.

Dnalunchie

ah, yes I thought you might suggest that

The only bolt on turbo kit from japan is an HKS item and a Tomei item, the HKS is over 4,600 landed in NZ and the tomei one has a bad reputation in NZ for being laggy on our 2 ltr

The aussies have a couple options but are pretty expensive and imho I would rather spend more on a Turbo Dynamics turbo *LM400 or M321H which seems to have much more real world results to compare with.

So as Its stands I will go with a TBE, intake and remap.

I have seen a couple others in NZ with the same car as mine dyno with these mods (as several tuners offer this as a drive in drive out package)

Most of the twin scroll models I have seen (V8-9) make between 200 and 210 kw atw

Most of the top tuners in NZ use hub dynos and we use a 22% loss ratio on the subies (the conversion for flywheel to wheel hp)

So if we say an average of 205kw

206 x 1.35 (to convert to HP) = 276

355hp x .78 = 276

So assuming a 22% loss from flywheel to engine we would guess the car would produce around 355hp

If that's all true then I think I could probably live with 355 as including the injectors, new turbo and re tuning I would be looking at an extra $4,000 NZ for an extra 40hp (if I went down the LM400 or M321H route) vs just $2,000NZ for the stage 2 package which includes exhaust, remap, filter and walbro pump.

One question I had

I am going for a 3 inch exhaust but would I also go 3 inch downpipe or 2.5 inch ?

I spoke with a tuner and he suggested a 3inch DP might result in boost spiking which could require an electronic boost controller which is another $500 I would prefer not to spend.
The tuner package also has an optional extra of a replacement turbo up pipe but you guys seem to think the JDM one is pretty good already

Dnalunchie

For those interested this is the tuner I will be using, they have an extremely good reputation in NZ and are the official tuners for a number of vehicle brands here that have an after market parts dept such as holden (vauxhall)

http://stmtune.wordpress.com/2011/06...le-evo-vs-sti/

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi there still don't understand why your mapper suggesting you electronic boost controller when your ECU can control boost without the problem and mainly on your ECU,you can have per gear boost,which is only available on the Apexi AVC-R which is best but cost is higher,I would take your car to different mapper which knows how map the Subaru and knows how it works

About the exhaust and DP,2.5" will be not restrictive up to 400bhp,above that will go with 3"



Jura

Dnalunchie

nar trust me, they do know what their doing there, they just said that there can be some boost variance in the normal ecu boost control and that the EBC can be useful for those wishing to push boost levels to the absolute safe limit which would require perfect boost control, I also spoke to another tuner who was actually from the UK and who was involved with tuning maps created for the FQ series evo's I asked him and again he said, not totally needed but useful again if you want to go to the absolute limit

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

On classics fair enough but I've never heard of anyone putting a boost controller on a newage (as per Jura's comments)!

Re the HKS kit - I'd leave well alone. Fitted one to mine and lost power and car didn't run well.
Went back to standard air box and Green filter, fine.
If you're going for a proper CAIK, go with an inner wing one, or get one like an RCM one with a heat shield and a proper air feed.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

3" inc. downpipe is an insurance against project creep but not essential for what you are doing at present. If you are changing your exhaust do the whole thing in one go. Job done and finished so future mods are taken care of.
Your existing ECU is very capable and with an ECUTEK remap you do not need a secondary boost controller.

Like I said, choose your mapper well. With your lack of knowledge the last thing you need is someone deciding to sell you something you do not need.

You have confirmed you have a VF37 T/S turbo. A very capable turbo.Why not get the best you can from what you have as outlined above and then decide where you are going from there. Changing to an MD321H makes no sense to me. It is a conventional single scroll turbo capable of a little more power than you have at present, probably with less torque and certainly not better spool. You will also need headers, uppipe and downpipe to change to the MD321H for marginal gains if any. That lot will cost more than upgrading to a T/S turbo from your existing set up once you have developed it as far as you can go.

There are T/S upgrades available from Litchfield and Scooby Clinic to name but two, if you actually get as far as getting the best out of what you have already.

Dnalunchie

Dont worry Harvey, if you flick up to my longer post a few up as it says I am going to go for the 350hp exhaust/remap option first and then see how we go.
The problem I have with a tuner is there are only 2 tuners i would allow near mine and the one that I linked has remapped 100's of sti's and I have NEVER, never read a single bad thing about them, and believe me, if had happened I would know as there is only 1 wrx/sti forum in NZ and its a very tight/smallish group of about 100-200 owners. Who knows, maybe he was just trying to make a buck off me.

Dnalunchie

This is the link to the other tuner, he is from the UK so maybe some of you know of him?

http://www.wrcdevelopments.com/

Dnalunchie

My suspicion is that maybe the EBC is being recommended because one of the tuners is using opensource tuning software rather than ECUTEK.

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

Nope, that doesn't ring true either.
Many of my friends have open source mapped cars and don't need a boost controller, especially not for only 300ish bhp!

Dnalunchie

ah okay I see you guys may have got the wrong idea, he did not say I explicitly needed it but rather that it would be a good idea.

Anyway now that I know its not needed I will just get the tune and turbo back exhaust with maybe a new drop in filter.

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

I'd say that would be the sensible way to go.
AFAIK manual boost controllers are sometimes used in classics where daughter boards or similar are not available to map the car.
Newages - not at all, the ECU is much more capable of dealing with the settings itself, so you should be fine as long as you have a capable mapper who knows the model well

Dnalunchie

wicked, well I will see how I go, will update as things develop, thanks for the good start in scoobynet!