cost for forged engine?
#31
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It's no big deal though and fine to disagree (discussion is what this forum is all about)... you have your view and I have mine. That's what makes the world go round.
At least we can discuss something without either party getting abusive.
However... I take exception to the "ex-webby" comment.
#32
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If we are talking forged engines, I'd choose a 2.1 over a 2.0 any day, particularly if you're replacing a duff crank, in which case there is a no extra cost benefit.
We've proven we can operate a closed deck EJ20 at a level hard to sustain with a 2.5.
For anybody running a five speed box, a hot 2.5 can give more torque than it can handle. Yes, you can have too much torque!
I agree that for a pure road car, the effortless grunt of a 2.5 is very nice, in the way that a V8 performs really well low down.
We've proven we can operate a closed deck EJ20 at a level hard to sustain with a 2.5.
For anybody running a five speed box, a hot 2.5 can give more torque than it can handle. Yes, you can have too much torque!
I agree that for a pure road car, the effortless grunt of a 2.5 is very nice, in the way that a V8 performs really well low down.
#36
The engine I have in my P1 uses forged and nitrided (SP) parts Inc block and that came in over £8000 for the original owner using a P1 head, racing bearings and uprated oil pump. Now with it run in and in my P1 with a De-cat a blitz NUR-Spec it's producing 322bhp and 329 ft lb torque. ( standard injectors and turbo ). The builders were Zen performance and it was transferred and mapped into mine by Scooby-Projects.
#37
ok , so while i have a few "big" readers in this thread , a lil quick advice for a confused jdm'r .
ive a 02 jdm bug sti prodrive style (roof hatch) and have so far in car is a apexi induction , walbro and 3' exhaust (no cats) producing 300/310 ( not entirely happy)
ive purchased , sc46 billet , pe 650 injectors, harvey headers and special up-pipe , mac 3port and waiting on a few other bits . my engine is at 145km's ,
my question , should i bolt on , map and go , forge my 2l block or go 2.5 .
car is daily driver , work is 2 mile journey , always warmed up and cooled down
any advice welcome ! as i still learning
ive a 02 jdm bug sti prodrive style (roof hatch) and have so far in car is a apexi induction , walbro and 3' exhaust (no cats) producing 300/310 ( not entirely happy)
ive purchased , sc46 billet , pe 650 injectors, harvey headers and special up-pipe , mac 3port and waiting on a few other bits . my engine is at 145km's ,
my question , should i bolt on , map and go , forge my 2l block or go 2.5 .
car is daily driver , work is 2 mile journey , always warmed up and cooled down
any advice welcome ! as i still learning
#38
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If it's healthy, just wind it up to 2 bar like I did... 2002 STI UK Prodrive Edition
Mine had valve guide wear, ( poor leakage figures ), so I just pushed it harder till it broke.
It never did.
I had it refreshed into a 2.1 stroker when the level of mechanical noise increaesd earlier this year.
dunx
P.S. Mine made 340 bhp with a sports cat a good few years ago.
Mine had valve guide wear, ( poor leakage figures ), so I just pushed it harder till it broke.
It never did.
I had it refreshed into a 2.1 stroker when the level of mechanical noise increaesd earlier this year.
dunx
P.S. Mine made 340 bhp with a sports cat a good few years ago.
Last edited by dunx; 12 September 2011 at 01:04 PM.
#40
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ok , so while i have a few "big" readers in this thread , a lil quick advice for a confused jdm'r .
ive a 02 jdm bug sti prodrive style (roof hatch) and have so far in car is a apexi induction , walbro and 3' exhaust (no cats) producing 300/310 ( not entirely happy)
ive purchased , sc46 billet , pe 650 injectors, harvey headers and special up-pipe , mac 3port and waiting on a few other bits . my engine is at 145km's ,
my question , should i bolt on , map and go , forge my 2l block or go 2.5 .
car is daily driver , work is 2 mile journey , always warmed up and cooled down any advice welcome ! as i still learning
ive a 02 jdm bug sti prodrive style (roof hatch) and have so far in car is a apexi induction , walbro and 3' exhaust (no cats) producing 300/310 ( not entirely happy)
ive purchased , sc46 billet , pe 650 injectors, harvey headers and special up-pipe , mac 3port and waiting on a few other bits . my engine is at 145km's ,
my question , should i bolt on , map and go , forge my 2l block or go 2.5 .
car is daily driver , work is 2 mile journey , always warmed up and cooled down any advice welcome ! as i still learning
DON'T
Dunx was lucky.
David APi
#42
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ok , so while i have a few "big" readers in this thread , a lil quick advice for a confused jdm'r .
ive a 02 jdm bug sti prodrive style (roof hatch) and have so far in car is a apexi induction , walbro and 3' exhaust (no cats) producing 300/310 ( not entirely happy)
ive purchased , sc46 billet , pe 650 injectors, harvey headers and special up-pipe , mac 3port and waiting on a few other bits . my engine is at 145km's ,
my question , should i bolt on , map and go , forge my 2l block or go 2.5 .
car is daily driver , work is 2 mile journey , always warmed up and cooled down
any advice welcome ! as i still learning
ive a 02 jdm bug sti prodrive style (roof hatch) and have so far in car is a apexi induction , walbro and 3' exhaust (no cats) producing 300/310 ( not entirely happy)
ive purchased , sc46 billet , pe 650 injectors, harvey headers and special up-pipe , mac 3port and waiting on a few other bits . my engine is at 145km's ,
my question , should i bolt on , map and go , forge my 2l block or go 2.5 .
car is daily driver , work is 2 mile journey , always warmed up and cooled down
any advice welcome ! as i still learning
2.5 everytime for road use IF you're happy in the 450/450 region. Goes from nothing, big shove in the back ....happy days.
If you're a rev the **** off it fanatic or are likely to go for an even bigger turbo at some point, go with a 2.1 stroker or 2.35 if you have the dough!
Either way, speak to David at APi
#43
dont fancy blowing anything up if possible , so 2 bar out the window , financially id like to stick with ecutek and in the region of 400+, so david now i know the "donts" what in your opinion are the "do's"
pm if you dont wishto clog up thread , this goes for others too
and apoligies to op for hijack !
pm if you dont wishto clog up thread , this goes for others too
and apoligies to op for hijack !
#44
Seriously, predominantly short journeys in subarus arent good for them or your wallet as they drink like george best at christmas.
advice ..... yeah, buy a bike to get to work on!
Anyways, back on topic.
I have a scd 2.5, which was running a vf30 and the torque and drivability were great but top end power was lacking alot. Torque on the 2.5's is great ..... is your car a 6 speed as even on a 2.0 the sc46 will probably chew up the 5 speed?
#45
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Can I ask a question
I love my V5 STI to bits, its also got sentimental value to me now. If the engine blew I would very much like to replace it rather than buy a new car.
What would the rough cost be if I wanted a 'new' 2.0L engine built to give me just over 300/300?
I love my V5 STI to bits, its also got sentimental value to me now. If the engine blew I would very much like to replace it rather than buy a new car.
What would the rough cost be if I wanted a 'new' 2.0L engine built to give me just over 300/300?
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#51
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Im gonna ask what those in the know will call a stupid question, however i was always told no such thing as a stupid question, so here goes, why is there such a jump in price between 2.1 and 2.35 engines, im assuming its engineering primarily??
#53
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Oh right, you say almost always, im guessng when it isnt a 2.2 block it is then down to engineering of whatever block is used??
Just interested as may be in a position where my engine needs a build and looking at choices available if worst comes to worst.
Thanks for the answer above scubbay
Just interested as may be in a position where my engine needs a build and looking at choices available if worst comes to worst.
Thanks for the answer above scubbay
#54
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And about the same again for the block work then if your going for 500 + you are into a totally different ball park with all the ancillaries required.
If you start with a standard wrx which would be the best as there is no point buying an sti when you will change everything except the gearbox your looking at £30K.
If you start with a standard wrx which would be the best as there is no point buying an sti when you will change everything except the gearbox your looking at £30K.
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Ah right, well thats out the window then, back to my original idea of a 2.1 then, wouldnt be aiming that high so would prob be fine for what im looking for power wise, reliability is more an issue for me than out and out power.
Cheers
Cheers
#57
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No he wasn't...
The car was mapped properly by Simon ( JGM )
AND I drove it with a degree of mechanical sympathy, towards the end, I'd started to lift the heads. But if "WE" had known they could have been torque'd down.
dunx
The car was mapped properly by Simon ( JGM )
AND I drove it with a degree of mechanical sympathy, towards the end, I'd started to lift the heads. But if "WE" had known they could have been torque'd down.
dunx
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Sorry, don't follow. What do you mean by torqued down ? They will [ ought to ] have been correctly torqued when the engine was built. That's it, once correctly torqued it is a done deal
So are you suggesting re-tighten the head torques ?
Or what?
David
So are you suggesting re-tighten the head torques ?
Or what?
David
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Nah, not on here - quotes in that silly 2 inch square Pm message box are quite hard. This morning I have 40 odd emails [ some quite odd - ] I am working my way through.
l'll get something for you a bit later, it needs thought.
David
l'll get something for you a bit later, it needs thought.
David