Well... I can't say I'm not disagreeing with you, as I have already said I am.

It's no big deal though and fine to disagree (discussion is what this forum is all about)... you have your view and I have mine. That's what makes the world go round.

At least we can discuss something without either party getting abusive.

However... I take exception to the "ex-webby" comment.

 

If we are talking forged engines, I'd choose a 2.1 over a 2.0 any day, particularly if you're replacing a duff crank, in which case there is a no extra cost benefit.
We've proven we can operate a closed deck EJ20 at a level hard to sustain with a 2.5.
For anybody running a five speed box, a hot 2.5 can give more torque than it can handle. Yes, you can have too much torque!
I agree that for a pure road car, the effortless grunt of a 2.5 is very nice, in the way that a V8 performs really well low down.

 

New Scooby I'm a 2 litre sc46 from the thread made 410/390 but I've since updated headers uppipe, air filter and added 20%meth
Need the next step !?!

 

Thats me!

 

That's why I recommended it for you. Durrrrr !

 

The engine I have in my P1 uses forged and nitrided (SP) parts Inc block and that came in over £8000 for the original owner using a P1 head, racing bearings and uprated oil pump. Now with it run in and in my P1 with a De-cat a blitz NUR-Spec it's producing 322bhp and 329 ft lb torque. ( standard injectors and turbo ). The builders were Zen performance and it was transferred and mapped into mine by Scooby-Projects.

 

ok , so while i have a few "big" readers in this thread , a lil quick advice for a confused jdm'r .


ive a 02 jdm bug sti prodrive style (roof hatch) and have so far in car is a apexi induction , walbro and 3' exhaust (no cats) producing 300/310 ( not entirely happy)

ive purchased , sc46 billet , pe 650 injectors, harvey headers and special up-pipe , mac 3port and waiting on a few other bits . my engine is at 145km's ,


my question , should i bolt on , map and go , forge my 2l block or go 2.5 .

car is daily driver , work is 2 mile journey , always warmed up and cooled down




any advice welcome ! as i still learning

 

If it's healthy, just wind it up to 2 bar like I did... 2002 STI UK Prodrive Edition

Mine had valve guide wear, ( poor leakage figures ), so I just pushed it harder till it broke.

It never did.

I had it refreshed into a 2.1 stroker when the level of mechanical noise increaesd earlier this year.

dunx

P.S. Mine made 340 bhp with a sports cat a good few years ago.

 

i have one of them

 

Much above 75,000 miles

DON'T

Dunx was lucky.

David APi

 

That's the route I'll be going if I ever stop being a tight ****, or when my wife leaves me

 

After seeing what an SC46 did to a STi rod over in the "Scoobyclinics turbos just got billet" thread, I wouldn't run that turbo on a non forged engine!

2.5 everytime for road use IF you're happy in the 450/450 region. Goes from nothing, big shove in the back ....happy days.

If you're a rev the **** off it fanatic or are likely to go for an even bigger turbo at some point, go with a 2.1 stroker or 2.35 if you have the dough!

Either way, speak to David at APi

 

dont fancy blowing anything up if possible , so 2 bar out the window , financially id like to stick with ecutek and in the region of 400+, so david now i know the "donts" what in your opinion are the "do's"

pm if you dont wishto clog up thread , this goes for others too

and apoligies to op for hijack !

 

Warming the car up for a 2 mile journey????? you must spend more time on the drive than on the road!!!!! that will get even longer if you put forged pistons in which are noisyer from cold!!!

Seriously, predominantly short journeys in subarus arent good for them or your wallet as they drink like george best at christmas.

advice ..... yeah, buy a bike to get to work on!

Anyways, back on topic.

I have a scd 2.5, which was running a vf30 and the torque and drivability were great but top end power was lacking alot. Torque on the 2.5's is great ..... is your car a 6 speed as even on a 2.0 the sc46 will probably chew up the 5 speed?

 

Can I ask a question

I love my V5 STI to bits, its also got sentimental value to me now. If the engine blew I would very much like to replace it rather than buy a new car.
What would the rough cost be if I wanted a 'new' 2.0L engine built to give me just over 300/300?

 

mine did hence the 2.35

 

I've built a pinned EJ257 pumped by a GT35R.


Only time will tell how long it lasts!

 

A long time Frayz, a long time!

 

love my 2.5, 362/374 sc36

 

Still can't stay with me at 303BHP

 

Im gonna ask what those in the know will call a stupid question, however i was always told no such thing as a stupid question, so here goes, why is there such a jump in price between 2.1 and 2.35 engines, im assuming its engineering primarily??

 

2.35 almost always uses the ej22t block which is very rare and commands about £1200 for the block alone.

 

Oh right, you say almost always, im guessng when it isnt a 2.2 block it is then down to engineering of whatever block is used??

Just interested as may be in a position where my engine needs a build and looking at choices available if worst comes to worst.

Thanks for the answer above scubbay

 

And about the same again for the block work then if your going for 500 + you are into a totally different ball park with all the ancillaries required.

If you start with a standard wrx which would be the best as there is no point buying an sti when you will change everything except the gearbox your looking at £30K.

 

Ah right, well thats out the window then, back to my original idea of a 2.1 then, wouldnt be aiming that high so would prob be fine for what im looking for power wise, reliability is more an issue for me than out and out power.

Cheers

 

Rare here,but in USA pretty common and pretty cheap



Jura

 

No he wasn't...

The car was mapped properly by Simon ( JGM )

AND I drove it with a degree of mechanical sympathy, towards the end, I'd started to lift the heads. But if "WE" had known they could have been torque'd down.

dunx

 

Sorry, don't follow. What do you mean by torqued down ? They will [ ought to ] have been correctly torqued when the engine was built. That's it, once correctly torqued it is a done deal

So are you suggesting re-tighten the head torques ?

Or what?

David

 

Emailed you about Jef s engine David
If you'd rather pm here?

 

Nah, not on here - quotes in that silly 2 inch square Pm message box are quite hard. This morning I have 40 odd emails [ some quite odd - ] I am working my way through.

l'll get something for you a bit later, it needs thought.

David