Rob Day

iTrader: (78)

Oh dear this is turing into nightmare mate, sorry the suggestions havent worked !

Is there any other drasitc way to get it off that isnt as extreme as chopping at the rim? Im sure as suggested before a pilot hole to bore though the stud should work, and then gauge the drill bit up by 2mm each time until you completly blitz what is left, the wheel looks like its now in need a refurn anyway.... very sad news, good luck

Rob

fiveskin

Sorry chaps, been hard at it all day long but the good news is, I got the *******..

What I did was what I really didn't want to do....drill the stud.
I had to punch a huge groove in the tip with a punch...
Then just drill drill drill.
Started small and worked upwards. Killed a few bits though.
Just took it in stages... wd40 the hell out of everything, then with oiled up drill very very slow drilling. Few seconds, stop, compressed air blown about in an attempt to cool both stud and drill, start over.
Christ.
Anyway, after much agony and a feeling of getting nowhere, the stud finally began to let me in.
Got all the way down the full depth of the nuts head but it still wouldn't pull away... a punch and club hammer finally busted it off.

If ever this happens to anyone reading this in future my tip is DO NOT HEAT IT. It fused it to The paint and wheel so was still stuck even after the stud was drilled.
What's mad is that the alloy nut remains managed to tear away some of The steel stud!

CHeers for all the suggestions everyone. hopefully if it happens to anyone else they'll find this. THere really is no simple method to this though...just lots of drilling..

fiveskin

The drilling...


The nut remains...


Nut and stud left overs...


And this is what I'm left with.. hopefully a refurb will be able to fix that bevel inside ?

fiveskin

CHeers martin I'll get onto him.
To be honest I think those alloy nuts are ok. I mean I've used them for years with no problems, I think its down to The garage murdering them. They just whack up the torque and go crazy on them. But... I suppose its safer to go steel for those times you're not around to tell them to go easy

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I think the problem with those nuts is they are too long and not enough thread is being used so they have too much hollow section. This makes it weaker and more liable to twist and shear off, especially if you have a worn out socket or one that is too short.

Either fit shorter nuts (and use a longer socket to undo/tighten) or use longer studs.


Still, the only lightweight/alloy nuts I've come across that are any good are the OEM fitment wheel nuts found on Porsches. And even then they have a nasty habit of seizing on, as alloy nuts and steel studs do not mix once the anodised coating has worn through (galvanic corrosion).


Bit late now, but the other tip was to tighen up the good wheel nuts a tad above spec to reduce the clamping force on the broken nut. However, with naff wheel nuts, they'd be prone to sheering too!

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Dam man yours don't look to bad, good jobh done mine was well messed up.

fiveskin

I've still got to chisel out all those leftovers but I think it'll be good for a refurb.
Speedlines in singles in this size come to about 240... so it was gonna be that plus 65 per wheel painting all round... was gonna just end up ditching them and going for a full all round new set of pro race 1.2
I'm so glad it ended up alright. Love the speedlines.

Anyone know of any decent wheel refurb and painting/powder coating? south east area Preferred. Ive known of so many that end up going crappy again after 6 months or so

martin850

iTrader: (51)

Good job done mate, glad it turned out ok for you

fiveskin

Cheers mate.

Got onto M444GY about the nuts.
What's the head of those like, it looked kind of sectiond a bit like a locking nut? Do they come with a removal socket of their own?

Does anyone know or know where to find the part number for an 06 wrx? An izusu dealer give me one but It's the wrong size.

martin850

iTrader: (51)

Mine look the same as the nuts you have on at the moment but I have seen some like you are describing and they do come with an extra socket. I think there are three or four different types, internal or external drive, open-ended etc. Pretty sure he can get them all

fiveskin

Oh and I meant part number for a wheel stud in my last post.

And cheers martin... just waiting on his reply to a pm.... in the mean time, barely hand tightened nuts to be safe hehe

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I've heard of this fantastic device that prevents wheel nuts being over/undertightened.....I think its called a torque wrench

P1 LTD

Bloody hell just read all your thread! What a fooken nightmare! Glad you sorted it at the end! Defo staying away of alloy wheel nuts...

scotty44

iTrader: (12)

Alloy wheel nuts are fine if you use the right socket to remove them, had this before where the socket was to small and it snaped just the same
Long socket = sorted

Cocker

iTrader: (3)

And with Turinis, contact Speedline direct for the correct wheels nuts. They are called Bimecc nuts and have a small shank extension at the end which helps to centralise the wheel on the bolt

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

As above, you've got to use the correct nuts with Speedline wheels.