The Great Tek Debate
23 April 2002, 03:06 PM
#31
Steve,
Was it your intention when doing the programming to make the TEK2 as smooth as it is? Could you make it fell more puncy if required??
I expect this would stress the engine more thus this is why you went for smoothness.
Have read threads about headers from PE and HKS. What are these? What sort of gains would it give? Are they worth changing in your opinion?
Is there anyway of checking myself if the MAF sensor is OK??
Neil.
Was it your intention when doing the programming to make the TEK2 as smooth as it is? Could you make it fell more puncy if required??
I expect this would stress the engine more thus this is why you went for smoothness.
Have read threads about headers from PE and HKS. What are these? What sort of gains would it give? Are they worth changing in your opinion?
Is there anyway of checking myself if the MAF sensor is OK??
Neil.
23 April 2002, 11:43 PM
#32
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The Tek2 runs higher boost, but with conservative maximum duty cycles. This means that the boost is far less likely to overboost in cold weather or with induction or exhaust mods. We can make the response to stamping on the throttle more agressive, but not as part of a standard map, otherwise it wouldn't suit all cars. Get a Tek2, see how you go - if you have the standard set of mods like exhaust and possibly air filter, it will be just right. If you want more agressive boost, go to PE for an hour of tuning time and have the duty cycles increased a little. Note that the summer is not a good time to be tuning this to the limit, since you'll regret it when the winter comes around again - you'll get overboost. Tek2 was developed in the colder spring weather and so is safe for cold conditions. All turbo cars will perform less well in hot weather - mine has dropped 13BHP in a week, just on ambient air temp changes this week.
>I expect this would stress the engine more thus this is
>why you went for smoothness.
>
Overboost is not a good thing - it's just bad boost control.
Better to run 16.5 PSI smoothly, than 14.5 overboosting to 19PSI - you fly into parts of the fuelling and ignition maps which aren't normally accessed and may not have had as much time spent on them
during development. You may also hit the fuel cut.
>Have read threads about headers from PE and HKS. What are
>these? What sort of gains would it give? Are they worth
>changing in your opinion?
>
I think so. Have a look at www.steve.ukmail.org/car for my results, or ask others on the BBS. There are some headers available that don't work at all, so make sure you see clear proof of their effectiveness before buying.
>Is there anyway of checking myself if the MAF sensor is OK??
>
Dare I say it... DeltaDash - http://www.ecutek.com
Cheers
Steve
>I expect this would stress the engine more thus this is
>why you went for smoothness.
>
Overboost is not a good thing - it's just bad boost control.
Better to run 16.5 PSI smoothly, than 14.5 overboosting to 19PSI - you fly into parts of the fuelling and ignition maps which aren't normally accessed and may not have had as much time spent on them
during development. You may also hit the fuel cut.
>Have read threads about headers from PE and HKS. What are
>these? What sort of gains would it give? Are they worth
>changing in your opinion?
>
I think so. Have a look at www.steve.ukmail.org/car for my results, or ask others on the BBS. There are some headers available that don't work at all, so make sure you see clear proof of their effectiveness before buying.
>Is there anyway of checking myself if the MAF sensor is OK??
>
Dare I say it... DeltaDash - http://www.ecutek.com
Cheers
Steve
24 April 2002, 12:20 AM
#33
Scooby Regular
Neil,
I thought I'd a MAF failure on my car and with the help of John Banks and his Delta software, we found that it was infact the Lambda sensor that was causing my idle problems.
AFAIK, you can't tell just by looking at it, so you'd need either Deltadash or a Select Monitor to check it properly.
Stefan
I thought I'd a MAF failure on my car and with the help of John Banks and his Delta software, we found that it was infact the Lambda sensor that was causing my idle problems.
AFAIK, you can't tell just by looking at it, so you'd need either Deltadash or a Select Monitor to check it properly.
Stefan
but understandable priorities 
24 April 2002, 12:37 PM
#40
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Ah OK I thought so, thanks.
It would seem a custom remap from PE is my only option then. Unless you know of any alternatives that is. I've thought of the Dawes but the retard limitation found with my age WRXs has put me off fitting it and having confidence in it because increased cumbustion pressures needs even more retarded timing apparently.
It would seem a custom remap from PE is my only option then. Unless you know of any alternatives that is. I've thought of the Dawes but the retard limitation found with my age WRXs has put me off fitting it and having confidence in it because increased cumbustion pressures needs even more retarded timing apparently.
24 April 2002, 01:37 PM
#42
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If it begins with 'Tek' then it's only suitable for 99/00MY cars.
For '93 cars, your options within sensible budgets are link, unichip, or PE phase-I remap. I'll leave you to choose, since I'm obviously biased ! This choice has been talked to death - check back through previous postings.
Cheers
Steve
For '93 cars, your options within sensible budgets are link, unichip, or PE phase-I remap. I'll leave you to choose, since I'm obviously biased ! This choice has been talked to death - check back through previous postings.
Cheers
Steve
25 April 2002, 06:48 PM
#43
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Just to keep the TEK thing going i had my car mapped today and the results were impressive,255lb/s torue and 261 BHP at 6710 rpm.Considering the temperatures at the moment i am well pleased,car drives better, feels smoother and above all the smile has once again returned .
25 April 2002, 11:36 PM
#46
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If you mean me (Stephen), have a look at www.steve.ukmail.org/car.
All mods are on my site - full exhaust, manifold, induction. Still std. turbo and TMIC. No internals.
Cheers
Steve
[Edited by StephenDone - 4/25/2002 11:38:42 PM]
All mods are on my site - full exhaust, manifold, induction. Still std. turbo and TMIC. No internals.
Cheers
Steve
[Edited by StephenDone - 4/25/2002 11:38:42 PM]
26 April 2002, 01:17 AM
#48
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I have a standard MY00 probably with the crap 802 ecu (if I could get that bloody plate of I could see).
If I got a TEK1/2 what kind of gains would I be looking at and is it advisable to use ecu without and filter/exhaust changes or is that throwing money away????
If I got a TEK1/2 what kind of gains would I be looking at and is it advisable to use ecu without and filter/exhaust changes or is that throwing money away????
26 April 2002, 01:49 AM
#49
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Have a look at www.ecutek.com for some before and after graphs.
Both Tek1 & Tek2 work on unmodified cars, though they work even better with a free flowing exhaust and/or induction kit.
Cheers
Steve
Both Tek1 & Tek2 work on unmodified cars, though they work even better with a free flowing exhaust and/or induction kit.
Cheers
Steve
26 April 2002, 06:42 AM
#50
Will be posting my TEK2 results 2moro. Left them on the coffee table today, DOH!
If i remember correctly i was at 224bhp before????? (MY00 with full scoobysport exhaust and downpipe, ITG air filter) and it touched 240BHP after the TEK2 - The torque curve was the most impessive bit.
How come i only had 224 before?? only 6BHP increase for a full exhaust, downpipe and ITG, something wrong there me thinks. Was about 21 degrees celciuos though.
Neil.
If i remember correctly i was at 224bhp before????? (MY00 with full scoobysport exhaust and downpipe, ITG air filter) and it touched 240BHP after the TEK2 - The torque curve was the most impessive bit.
How come i only had 224 before?? only 6BHP increase for a full exhaust, downpipe and ITG, something wrong there me thinks. Was about 21 degrees celciuos though.
Neil.
26 April 2002, 08:19 AM
#51
Neil
If that was a powerstation figure then that wasn't bad for a MY00 with the mods you have. I had 201 BHP from a std MY00 there myself.
If it was at PE then I agree, your car is not all there - blocked solonoid?
F
If that was a powerstation figure then that wasn't bad for a MY00 with the mods you have. I had 201 BHP from a std MY00 there myself.
If it was at PE then I agree, your car is not all there - blocked solonoid?
F
26 April 2002, 10:47 AM
#53
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You could by a boost gauge and pod for about £100, or go for DeltaDash for £200 and be able to log all engine parameters with a laptop. Weigh it up before giving out your hard earned.
Steve
Steve
26 April 2002, 01:27 PM
#55
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My car had tek 2 fitted and tested by power engineering at uxbridge ,now their rollers are ,i am told conservative, but car feels very much better on the road ,quicker and a much better drive!
27 April 2002, 11:54 PM
#57
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PE get spot on book figures for Audis (e.g. S3s), and they control boost based on mass air flow, so produce pretty constant power. Anyway, it's the change in power/torque you should look at (before and after a mod) on the same day. Too many variables to consider otherwise - atm pressure, air temp, tyre pressure, fuel quality etc etc etc.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
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