The guy I bought it off said its running at 1.1bar but guage is in psi and it going to like 11

 

i always thought there was 14psi in a bar?

 

14.5psi = 1 bar = barometric pressure (i.e. read from a gauge) = 14.7psi atmospheric pressure at sea level.

So your 11psi that you mentioned is 0.76 bar to be precise.

 

You're some 5psi (0.34bar) down then.

That's a 'drop' of 31% over that stated 1.1bar (16psi). And the Mines chip does run 1.0-1.1bar too, so something's not right if your PSI gauge isn't going to c.16psi (1.1bar)...

 

Guage is just going above 10, what bhp am I looking it if I run it at say 1.1 bar then

 

Thing is, you're putting out nearly 300bhp at that alleged 11psi only! Okay, I suppose that is possible given the FMIC and the alleged aggressive ign. timing of the Mines?!?!

 

Hard to say mate to be honest you'd need to do it n have it dyno'd but id get it checked over n full diagnosis done first make sure it's up for more, better safe than sorry

 

Agreed - really need to check the AFRs as mentioned in post # 12...

 

Noi I need afr checking before I decide to do anything with psi

 

I'd say that's the best bet. It's possibly just the actuators slacked off or possibly your boost gauge has a split in the pipe dropping the reading. But just incase they've dropped the boost for a reason get it checked. May be nothing wrong in which case get the boost whacked up

 

Will check the pipe going to the guage but it deffienately only sits above the 10mark, is there anyway of prooving it has the mines fitted? As I have no proof, but do have a rr with nearly 300bhp n doubt it would make that with just exhaust and fmic

 

Mines is usually a complete ECU swap, and has a gold sticker on the casing with black "MINES" logo on. You have to lift the passenger's footwell carpet up and remove the kickplate beneath... Then the ECU will be staring yo in the face.

I'd also rule out he actual gauge first by quickly swapping in a mate's known proper working one. If that one also only shows 11psi, then carry on troubleshooting with the rest of the boost control system's components...

 

right 1st thing, im not running a mines ecu which i was told, it infact is a prova what kind of ecu is this? thanks for help

 

Yeah, heard of those too.

Once again, I think it's a generic chip and is aggressively set up, like the Mines. I doubt its boost target is at only 11psi -- once again, it will be around 14-16psi like the Mines...

 

okay thanks, cars going in to get on diagnostic to see what my AFR is think i might buy another boost guage to see if it is faulty gauge

if everything is running okay im going to up psi to 14 for now, what bhp gain am i talking going up 3psi?

 

Thing is, even now running 298bhp, your 380cc injectors (assuming they haven't been changed?!), will be near max IDC (injector duty cycle). I reckon you're already near the limits of them.

Really, your next step should be 440cc (or 550cc) injectors, ESL Live ECU/remap for around 320-340bhp on your exisitng TD05H 16g turbo.

 

okay, apparently my turbo is the td04

 

Well, the OEM fitment should be a '05.

All JDM MY93-96 saloons had them (plus STI wagons too).

The TD04 was fitted to the JDM WRX wagons.

You need to defo confirm by checking turbo's embossed casting on the compressor cover...

 

If it has been changed to a '04, then your car's AFRs could be all over the place, what with the Prova and FMIC i.e. no bespoke remap bringing everything 'together'.

Also regardless of all that, the '04 will be pretty much at its limits - normally maxes at 270-290 on the std slanty TMIC. (But your Prova and FMIC is obviously helping make a tad more power...)

 

so how do i know if its td04 or 05?

 

See the last sentence in post # 48 ^^^

 

that didnt help me sorry what number/letter am i looking for?

 

There'll be a body of cast embossed writing at the base of the 'silver' coloured compressor cover. At the very bottom it should either read "TD05H" or "TD04L"

This pic shows the turbo upside down - you can make out the "TD05H" at the bottom (top in pic) of the comp cover:-

 

Should say on the compressor housing only problem is it's awkward to see while fitted

 

As above, you may need the aid of a tiny mirror taped to a straightened out coathanger to try to get access to read it.

The light on a mobile will help too...

 

Any luck on finding out which turbo you have?

 

cant seam to see it, ive put my phone and took plenty of pics but cant seam to see it will try and look later, but guy deffienately said it was a td04 but need to find out for sure

and my dump valve seams to go off before it hits postive psi, should this happen? or is it dodgey guage

 

If you feather the throttle (on and off, on and off, etc.) whilst there's at least some meaningful boost in the inlet tract, then the BOV might # pfsssst pfssst # lightly. (And obviously it should make a big # PFSSST # after closing the throttle or gearchanging after being on full boost).

But it obviously should be silent when accelerating with the throttle open.

So you don't necessarily have to be at max boost for the BOV to make some noise when the throttle plate is closed, after coming off boost. This is dictated, to a lesser or greater degree, by the PSI rating of the spring inside the BOV. Your's prob has quite a soft spring...

 

yes it does if feathering throttle, i just get a whine whilst in turbo and accelerating

 

Can you 'describe' the whine, at all?

Perhaps you have a small air leak downstream of the turbo compressor instead -- this could, of course, also coincide with the, presumed, low 11psi reading too...???