Bob Rawle

Actually not "mine" it "belongs" to JF.

Mine is being installed on October 8th

cheers

bob

Bob Rawle

I now have the radiator/oil cooler system installed on the car, its unfortunate that I can't give you before and after temperature values but I don't have any gauges in the car at the moment to monitor this.

However on the drive back to Swindon coolant temps, which I can monitor, were typically two to three degrees cooler than before with the lowest value of 76 degrees being seen when the thermostatic oil pressure plate allowed oil through the cooler. Otherwise it was running at 78 degrees C as a typical value cruising at 80 to 85 mph.

Having mapped Johns car on the 10th which has the same system installed we never saw oil temps over 90 degrees during the mapping runs.

Very impressed with the quality and simplicity of the oil cooling system, pipe runs are so short and tidy.

I have a few pics that I have linked to ...

Hammer man

iTrader: (25)

Nice, very nice. Nothing over 90c sounds good to me. I'm always concerned about oil temp..

Bob Rawle

To be honest ideal would be to keep oil temps between 95 and 100 deg c. This would ensure optimum lubrication and also make sure that condensates are burnt off. So an exercise is underway to try and achieve that as a constant. But so far I am very happy, such a well integrated solution with minimum length pipe runs is definitely what I wanted.
I would recommend any serious minded driver to consider this solution for a track and sprint orientated car, it's not cheap but quality demands a price which should be paid.
Cheers
Bob

stockcar

saw JohnF's yesterday at Teeside sprint and hats off to Simon as its a very neat install and looks a quality product

alyn

Shaun

Looking good Bob!

Cliff,
For your normal road use you shouldn't have a problem imo with your current set-up. Track use would be entirely different though.

Hammer man

iTrader: (25)

It normally sits around 90-95c on the road, so yes thats fine. I off to prodrive this week for a "go" round the track, so I will keep a good eye on it. David has advised the same, so I may need to invest in a cooler, hence my interest here.

johnfelstead

Standard water temperature stat in mine, water temp cruises at 81 degrees, it only goes higher when sat idling in traffic, will go up to 86 degrees then the fans kick in and its back down to 81.

Oil temp cruising sits at 82 degrees, max seen at the teesside sprint was 88 degrees. Previously it cruised at 96 degrees and would go to 105 degrees on a sprint run. On a proper track thrash with the stock radiator and modine installed oil temperature would climb to 120 at which point i ended the session and cooled it down .

It's a well proven system, it's been used on two 500BHP Time Attack cars, oil and water temps are always well under control.

Vivi666an

I will be running on V Power only, no fuel additives.

SloSTI

Hi Bob,

kind regards from Slovenia.

With Bilsteins you've made the right choice.
I've just tested my RB320 dampers recently and accoriding to test results after 65.000 km of beating they are almost as new.

Did you consider Ohlins DVF ones too while making decision?

Best regards,
Andrej

Bob Rawle

Ok bit of a minor update, having swapped out the standard map sensor on the car for a 4 bar one I will be testing that, a std UK STi MY01-MY05 sensor, the MY06-07 std sensor I removed and a Spec C sensor to define their respective ranges and scope of control. I already have the GC8 sensors characterised from years back, so I can then present nearly a full set of comparative results. This should be of interest given the posts I have seen around relating to this especially the std UK sensor.

Also a bit more on the latest mod which was the combined rad and oil cooler. Whilst I am still not able to measure oil temps as such I can monitor coolant temps real time using my data monitor.

Unfortunately there is a problem .... the rad combination cools the engine too much !!!! Under certain conditions (not saying what) I see coolant down as low as 75 degrees, I do have a cold stat (71 degrees) installed. So I will be removing that and refitting the std oem stat so that I can get coolant to stay in the mid 80's centigrade which ought to keep oil in the high 80's low 90's area. 75 degrees is simply too cold for my liking as that indicates the oil will be barely reaching 80 degrees.

watch this space

cheers

bob

johnfelstead

Standard Water stat is definately what you want Bob. Mine sits at 81-82 degrees water temp no matter what you throw at it, it only goes up when sat stationary, where the fans kick in at 86 and it's back down to 81 again. Oil i think is a bit too cold, the stat needs a bit of a tweek to bring it up a tad more quickly and let it sit a little higher, i spoke with Simon tonight giving him the info.

I did a 100 mile run on saturday, max oil temp even thrashing through the gears was 86 degrees. I am giving the car a run at the 'ring in a couple of weeks, so we'll see what it does at 150MPH+ flat out for 8 minutes.

Bob Rawle

Hi John, yes Simon is going to change the stat when I am up there next week, also getting the right front arb on as well its been running on a bar for the hatch due to supply.
Your temps sound spot on exactly right. Look forward to the Ring feedback sounds like fun !!!

cheers

bob

Shaun

Sounds like an interesting modification, although with these air temps at the moment, I suspect we won't see any upper temp comparison...... however John's ring visit may help to substantiate warmer conditions in a way.

Hammer man

iTrader: (25)

What ya talkin about Shaun. There`s gonna be a heatwave next week..

johnfelstead

This setup has been used on 500BHP TA cars Shaun in summer (and not 1 lap wonder TA efforts, proper thrashed for a full session or trackday) it's well up to the job, tons of headroom in it.

Bob Rawle

I've dug my standard stat out today ready, and its marked as a 78 degree stat, John yours is the same having checked part numbers etc. So that explains things nicely and I think this is just the right area to be using. I will probably see slightly lower temps than you given I run a FMIC, but that said it could all be offset as my engine is a 2.5 whilst yours a stroked 2 litre and you have more coolant volume than I do.

Shaun the rad system is very well proven in competition across the complete range of ambients.

General question ... what gauge system to use ? Defi's are an obvious choice but what else is out there thats accurate. I do not want a digital system as you have to be looking at that to register readings, analogue can stay in eye line and needle position tells you all is well, as soon as a needle moves its obvious whereas when i digital display changes its not unless you look right at it.

I already have an Ecutek data display in the car.

cheers

bob

johnfelstead

I'd expect mine will show lower temps than yours will Bob, if there were to be any differences (which i doubt) as mine doesnt have a great big lump sat in front of it.

Coolant volume makes no difference to cooling eficiency, all that affects is bulk warm up time, once up to temperature all that matters is the flow rate and heat exchange rate, which is based around the pump speed, energy going into the water (power), eficiency rate of the core and airflow accross the core. On high eficiency cores like these you often find the faster you go the cooler it gets, even though the energy is going up the heat exchanger is providing more cooling due to the increase in airflow.

This is why it's never a good idea to use low temperature stats IMHO, it's achieving nothing other than delaying the bulk load point. If you have to use low temp stats to keep temperatures under control you have a capacity problem that will be an issue if you continue to load it up with sustained running.

Guages wise, at the moment the Touchan isnt OEM ECU compatible, bit that would be ideal once it is. Analogue guages are definately the way to go when monitoring change of state conditions, Defi's still take some beating but the DSD-SLM II guages look nice too.

Bob Rawle

Changed the stat to a 78 degree one yesterday and an a normal cruise I now see 83 to 84 degrees C which is in line with expectations.

A faster cruise sees the coolant temps dropping to 81 to 82 degrees, so it looks like my FMIC system isn't a great barrier to air flow, which is one of the reasons it was chosen.

So all good, I still don't have an oil temperature gauge in the car ... starting to wonder if a complete binnacle system might not be more cost effective than a set of six different gauges, certainly Defi's would probably cost more.

cheers

bob

Bob Rawle

I now have some pics of a very scruffy (as in mud spattered) car with the new suspension set up complete with a set of 235-45-17 Yoko AD08 tyres. They were also fitted yesterday and the suspension set up again to match, unfortunately the wrong front ARB was sent again, even though the pack had the correct part number, so thats still as was. Not a problem but just lock limits the car a bit for now. The car is 40mm lower than standard, thats messed up the automatic headlight levelling system so the sensors will need to be repositioned to sort that out.

cheers

bob

yozef

iTrader: (4)

Bob I love my prosport boost, oil temp and oil pressure especially with peak hold and alarm. I have AFR, coolant and air intake temp linked to my iphone, (ipad on track) thought innovate OT2. Works for me.

legacy_gtb

iTrader: (3)

Hi Bob,

Good to see your getting on well with Simons work to your undercarriage! And theyre rads look the dogs wotsits.

He set mine up before i took it down to scoobyprojects, and although i couldnt use the engine as it was bodged to run, it definately felt mighty impressive!

Cant wait for the syvecs to come back so you can get some maps into it, and i can start booking track time! :-)

Keep up the good work.

Hammer man

iTrader: (25)

Yokohama ad08`s you say....I like your style Bob

Bob Rawle

I have only ever used R888's in the past at this level, so far I think the Yoko's are better, I am advised that if I think they are grippy now to wait until the pips are off the O/D and then I will really see what they are like. They do look the business as well filling the std eight inch rims very nicely unlike some other 235 width tyres I have seen. I am having the original gold set refurbed to the same colour, then i will wait to see what needed to do a bit of sprinting next year before deciding what rubber to put on those.

Your car looks the business with those.

cheers

bob

Bob Rawle

Hi Will, when the car was checked after the wheels were changed the suspension had to be significantly adjusted to bring it back to the settings we wanted, I was surprised (although its really obvious) that a change to the tyre size from 225 to 235 made such a big difference. So as a general comment changing tyre width should mean that a car needs sorting out again, you can't swap sizes just like that.

I am looking forward to your car, I think Simon at SP is going to be very impressed with the way it drives when we map it.

cheers

bob

SloSTI

Hope it is not to much of OT.

Maybe you will find this hard to believe but I find Federal RS-R 595 being notch or even two higher compared to Yokos.

I've used 4 set of Yokos in past and they are very good but now I think I will not go from Feds anymore. I've bought 10 pcs on stock and my last new set of Yokos is waiting in garage for last year.

Grip will blow your mind of, turn in is on same level of Yoko.
It is very easy to put some heat in them and then they are going crazy. Those even work beyond expectations in wet and when 3/4 used.
Feds a are a bit softer compound (140) compared to Yokos (150) but in real life they don't last so much less.
I manage to pull out of Feds 3.000 - 4.000 Miles of fast road, while Yokos can last 4.000 - 5000 Miles on same pace.

Some owners were complaning about inocent surface cracks on Feds but from second half of 2012 also this "problem" was cured.

Shaun

Bob & John,
I wasn't insinuating that the combo rad/cooler hadn't been tested or wasn't any good - if that came across as such, it certainly wasn't meant.

Threads of this type are all about information and personal experiences, so I was suggesting that the data attained so far didn't inform of the potential from your current data collated..... that will certainly come in time.

legacy_gtb

iTrader: (3)

Indeed, chevron need to see mine again anyway as with the engine management in the state it was in when i was there, it couldnt be road tested with any gusto! im also going wider on the wheel too so im hoping i can save going back till the cars mapped, the arches are pulled and ive sourced some 8's.

I hope you dont mind, but you have a PM for your parousal

johnfelstead

No probs Shaun.

Some testing info for you, just come back from a weekend at the nurburgring.

The nordsliefe was wet so i couldnt drive flat out, peak speed was only 140MPH. Peak water temperature was 82C, peak oil temperature was 88 degrees C. Peak Charge temperature was 10 degrees C.

I also did two 20 minute sessions on the GP circuit, i could drive flat out on there, again track was wet but not raining, so once i sussed out the grippy line it was flat out for the full 20 minutes. Passed plenty of GT3 RS's including a full race spec version, plus the usual M3's etc, even managed to lap a Cayman S LOL

Peak speed on GP circuit was 121MPH, peak water was 82 degrees C, Peak oil was 102 degrees C, peak charge temp was 18 degrees C.

Bob Rawle

Great info John, so the 102 degrees on the GP circuit was a peak or was that the general level? Sounds like a good weekend despite the weather.

cheers

bob