Thanks dunx, is the RB320 setting standard ones? For minimum / preferred / maximum settings.


Also, just had a look at my strut tops, and I can't get them to go straight forward and backward if that makes sense, as there are only 3 studs, so in theory can get the 'adjustment channel' to face either / or \

 

I think you need to swap them left to right, and I'm not 100% sure whether you can just swap the whole strut....

Sorry !

dunx

P.S. First set are standard for an RB320, not aware of any tyre wear issues, but you could try the owners club web-site....

 

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you on this it's been pretty busy lol....

Anyway I didn't take into consideration your camber plates as I haven't tried this with BC racing ones before, and sometimes each camber plate differs a bit.

Dunx is correct in that sometimes you need to swap the plates left to right to get this as close to ideal as possible (ideal being the plate can adjust front to rear without any camber change). You may not be able to exactly flip them so that there is caster adjust without any camber change (it is possible with some plates). But try it out and if it's not looking good, you may want to try to swap left to right. The idea is to try and dial camber in via the bottom bolt (stock eccentric and possibly an aftermarket bolt in the lower hole. NEVER put a aftermarket camber bolt in the top hole in place of the stock one).

 

I think the importance of dynamic camber via caster is starting to catch on in the general public (some new cars with mac pherson suspension now come with nearly 8* deg of positive caster from the factory). This still isn't something commonly seen here yet on the street car level, but rather something that has been known of in motorsports for quite some time now. Thats not to say it won't work just as well on the street car level

The thing is with adjusting static camber (the camber adjusted by bolt or plate that cannot change) is that when you adjust it from the top mount, you often have to dial in nearly 4* plus static camber, and that's only good for a given range of suspension travel. When you let the neg camber increase dynamically ( the camber that changes as the suspension travels) you generally need to run less, and get a larger range of a benefit from it.

The main set back with this is, your generally limited to the amount of static camber you can run from the stock eccentric bolt or even a seconday lower bolt. Real motorsports type suspension have large slots to be able to adjust camber from the bottom, look in this pic:



These are off a group N WRC Impreza. Notice how slotted the lower mountig holes are so you can adjust for static camber via the lower point without increasing "SAI".

The problem is most aftermarket coilovers are not designed to adjust for that much camber from the bottom. "BUT", I think you will still be able to achieve more then enough with a factory eccentric bolt, and if necesary a seondary bolt in the bottom.

Dynamic camber gains via positive caster are much more signifigant then static ones, and you will feel a much greater improvement this way.

-Anthony

 

Thanks again for a great reply! (I haven't done any work yet, as I am waiting for some new discs to come so I can do it all at once).

So I really need to try to swap the plates round (if possible), but if not I will still be able to achieve the correct caster you think?

Like this:

 

Well, all raised up now I think it actually looks tons better than being totally slammed. Plus its more practicable...which was my main objective.

Unfortunately, I didn't realise the whole strut would have to come out to do the top plates. For some stupid reason I thought you did it under the bonnet So that hasn't been done. Not sure I will have time to do it before my holiday next week either, as I will be working my **** off.

Will deffo have to get the alignment done though.


Thanks a lot for the help and advice!!!!!

 

Sorry for not coming back to this for so long! It gets really busy here sometimes and I don't have a chance to get on this forum that often. Glad you got your car raised up! I'm sure you will enjoy it quite a bit more now!

Next you will have to get the alignment done,and try flipping the plates! But yeah, you will have to take them out to do that. When you get some time, you should make a go of it.

Glad I was of some help to you.

 

I raised mine 40 mm for the run to Thoresby Car Show, and the ride is transformed.

However, I now need the toe-in doing as it wanders all over the place....

GROAN !

dunx