Shaun

I have no idea why the gear was not shown. It was done in 4th with the diff locked.

Jase said he did not expect the car to make as much as it did (he only told me this afterwards lol), as their dyno seems to read less than some other DD dynos. He was full of compliments when it made what it did, so fair play to him.

BIG FUD

iTrader: (84)

Sort them glitches out mate you might be in front of me next season at shoobysprint..


LOL at crayons nice power bye the way keep up the good work ...

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Just going back to the graph - I know the hyperflow is a good FMIC but I am curious as to why the intake temperature did not go up at all during the run.

Shaun

That is what Jase thought as well. It looked so good it raised doubt, but no the thermocoupler was working fine and the dyno was logging as it should. Temps were higher until the run started. Quickly dropped as the car was worked through the gears to 4th, levelled (as shown on the graph) and then went back up when the runs ended. There is slight fluctuation, but it is very minor.

Mark,

BIG FUD

iTrader: (84)

475 bhp bye 4400rpm dam thats sweet only just noticed how well it spools up

Shaun

Just had a call from Mike Tuckwood at Area52......

Apparantly it seems like they have had some other vehicles on today and those graphs have been doing the same, as regards to dipping on the power/torque curves. They have had support from Mike Gurney (I think that is his name) from DD and it transpires that the dips have been caused by a faulty speed reader on the front roller. I have been assured that the peak figure still stands (advised by Mike G), but the dips would be removed once the front roller speed reader is replaced. This rings true as the car feels fine on the road.

Hats off to Mike T for phoning me and as he said, it will be fixed tomorrow, so he had no problem with me posting this up. Looks like I will have to make a trip back to Area52 for a "dip free" graph. **** happens, but that is two dyno's my car has bust now!

Shaun

That is 475lbft by 4400rpm, not BHP.

It's all chicken soup for the moment, as I said, the car spools quicker than that and what with the dips shown, the comment I have posted above (after Area52 called me) explains alot. It needs to be run again, which it will be. I might just throw in some/half a tank/full tank of E85, this time.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

I'll stick with my 600 lb/ft by 4200 that I had on 20% E85

It'll be nice to see the proper figures Shaun as they just don't look right - I agree, there is no way the boost control is that bad.

Looking at the graph it doesn't look like the dyno operator built any boost before starting the run, which I understand is the norm. That might explain the fact that your turbo doesnt hit full boost til 4400 or maybe that is down to the speed sensor too. Either way - be good to see it run on vpower again or E85 - you know you want to

BIG FUD

iTrader: (84)

600 bye 4200 omg mine does 360 and i think its great lol my old sti was 525ft trq bye 4500 that was a diff killer on a regular also..

Shaun

Mark,
Don't get sucked in by dyno read outs and power figures.... don't forget mine was running in low boost for the ScoobySprint Championship and it still kicked **** with less power and more weight than the immediate opposition (in more ways than one lol)! Even good dyno graphs are only an indication.... how it actually drives on the black stuff is where it counts. I think you started to realise that after your first sprint entry... resist the temptation until you really do need more power.

As Richard Bulmer said to me today "If you want me to tune it for bull**** pub curves let me know and I will see if I can **** up the nice road map, that also does the business on track, in the process!!!!!!!" Says it all really.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Well said Richard

Lateral Performance

iTrader: (20)

Shaun,

Great result, but I think it would be worth having another look at the graphs peaks/dips, and comparing them to the boost profile peaks/dips. I can see how a "speed reader" could effect power/torque, but I'm not certain how a speed reader could effect the boost profile, unless the retarder is knackered, and not holding load ?


Mark.

Fai17

iTrader: (2)

Shaun

Your car has been proven on a track and rollers

Lets get you and your scooby and see what time you can achieve on the 1/4

Shaun

Fai17,

johnfelstead

I was going to suggest wheel spin was a problem until the speed sensor issue was diagnosed. I would expect the load on the engine was being altered by the dyno due to the speed sensor problem, which would affect the boost profile.

Shaun

John,
I can't remember the conversation verbatim, but it was something about the rear rollers would of intermittantly put the break on or something like that, when the speed sensor chucked it's dummy.

rickya

iTrader: (18)

Shaun going back to your recent alignment above, I need your help

I am having my alignment done this week, having just fitted BC coilovers & wanted to take my settings with me. Are these all the settings they would need or is there anything more they would require. Also I am not going as hardcore on the settings as it is mainly for fast road & occasional trackday. So with some advice from a fellow Spec c friend we were thinking:

Front (both sides)
Camber - 2.0 degs Negative
Castor - ???????
Toe - 0.00

Rear (both sides)
Camber - 1.75 degs Negative
Castor -???????
Toe - 0.00

What do you think?? ps I have no idea about Castor settings & what else do I need?

ps Sorry to diversify from your thread but I thought it might be useful for other Spec C owners in future when going through this thread. Other threads just seem to get lost in the cyber depths of Scoobynet & any useful info lost with them!

Shaun

Rickya,
For road and sprint use my geometry works for me and worked for Simon. It could be improved upon, but without proper testing I would not find out. The car does what it is asked to do, which is the main thing.

I just looked at what you quoted above and thought "Jesus... that aint right!"

I made a **** up, firstly on the date (lol) and then on some of the settings I reported.

Settings were/are:
Front (both sides)
Camber - 2.5degs Negative
Castor - 5degs Positive
Toe - 0.6mm Positive

Rear (both sides)
Camber - 2degs Negative
Toe - 0.2mm Positive



I have just editted the original post.

With my limited knowledge.......

Nothing wrong with the Camber settings YOU have suggested, but more can be better for turn in etc (to a limit). This can be at the expense of tyre wear, but since I don't sit on the motorway for miles on end, it has not appeared to affect this for me.

Castor is only at the front and you want as much as you can get to 5degs with the adjustment you have.

Toe you can try and get as close to 0.0m if you wish, although benefits can be seen by adjusting this.

rickya

iTrader: (18)

Thanks once again mate for your help

Having Vredestein Ultrac Sessantas fitted tmrw 235/45/17 (for road use / got 2 sets of worn RE070s for the track) & alignment on Friday. Hopefully then that should be most of my bits done for the next year or so, just want to enjoy it on the road & track now.

Shaun

Well, this time last year the headgaskets were just about to let go...... doesn't time fly!

I had not driven the car for over 4 weeks, so decided to take it out for a blast on Tuesday. I don't normally drive the Scoob when there is salt on the road. As sticking the car back in a garage, when the car is wet/damp with salt solution and the garage is not heated, is never the best thing. Since it had been raining alot recently I suspected that the salt on the road surface would be minimal.

To kill two birds with one stone, a)to give it a good run and b)to de-chav the car of stickers, I gave Litchfield Imports a call and asked them if I could use their workshop. No way was I going to de-sticker, clean and polish the car outside.

I hate cleaning the car at the best of times, so having to rip the stickers off, de-clunge the panels, wash and then polish was not something I look forward to doing.

1) Wash the car with Snow Foam
2) Remove stickers, heating panels with hairdryer
3) Autosmart glue remover on affected panels
4) Wash the car with Snow Foam
5) Dry and wax

How to eat up a day hey travelling 140miles and cleaning a flaming car!

It's now back to stealth mode with just the rear side window stickers on.

I also had a quick email chat with AET this week about possibly trying a different turbo, so I might have something "interesting" to write about soon.

utaka

you doing the sprint again this year mate i see we all convinced you to keep on with the scoob then

Shaun

Definately doing ScoobySprint again, along with as many track days as I can attend.

Not sure about anything else at the moment..... might try a couple of OHW TA rounds.

utaka

fair play another busy season for you then i might try a few rounds of the sprint this year dont know how the car will perform on the tight twisties as its built for circuits but it might be fun to give it a go

Shaun

Sometime has passed since any development news on the Spec C and you can never stand still for too long in this game!

First off the Spec C has gained a "Cover Feature" in Total Impreza, so more news on the publication date for that as soon as it has been finalised for publication. Perhaps I have moved from being a dyno queen to an article queen now! This will be the fourth full magazine article since I have owned the car, but I believe I have some way to go until I beat any records on that front!

Secondly and probably most importantly, I have been a bit quiet as regards to the cars continued development. The Spec C performed extremely well during 2009 in the ScoobySprint Championship and I could not of asked for more in reality, especially considering it's change of remit back to being a "true" road car.

Personally I think that there is not much left in the old girl, as regards to extracting a big jump in power. I purposefully stayed away from increasing power (530bhp is ample for road use), as I just wanted to get at least 12 months of stress free use out of the car before exploring other avenues. The current engine spec is obviously still on the standard block casing and even though it has not given me grief apart from headgaskets, I may be a fool to think I can go and **** another 200+bhp at it and expect it to remain OK. I could give it a punt, but in all honesty I don't want to run the risk of scrapping my heads and cams, just for the search of more power.

Whilst reliability can never be guaranteed, I have always taken the approach to do what I should do for the level at which I want to reach. No point scrimping..... if you can't afford to do it right, don't do it in my book.

However, part of me say's "keep it as it is"...... another part of me say's "open up that wallet again and get some real power". I have got to be honest, I get more enjoyment trying new things than I do being happy with reaching a goal and then saying "that is it".

Anyway... I have started initial dialogue with Tracktive Solutions regarding the spec'ing of a new engine build, looking to be capable of 700+bhp at the wheels. Tracktive have just finished and have available their own twisted turbo pipework kit, so I guess it would be rude not to include that within the proposal.

Plenty of investigation and discussions to be had, as I realise that this is not going to be straight forward..... or cheap. So whilst I don't mind spending some cash, I need to find out the final build cost of everything until I start crying and open the wallet up again. Of course I have my limit on how much I am willing to spend.

Initial discussions with Tracktive have been around a block supplied from Asia. Details on this should the decision be made to commit to the build.... currently a 2.5ltr could still be on the cards.

I best get on the phone to AET again...... as I will certainly need mahoosive blower, so need to understand options available!

If the cost / risk is acceptable than I will obviously detail what is what within this thread.

stevebt

iTrader: (8)

Just do the cheapest power upgrade you will ever get and map for funny fuels then think about where you want to go.

Shaun

Steve,
I don't do "cheap".

stevebt

iTrader: (8)

Not what your missus says

SleeperSy

"700+bhp at the wheels" so about 850-900BHP thats some build - sounds very interesting

this will be one of the top 3 or 4 imprezas in the country powerwise

Sy

ZEN Performance

I've just mapped a 2.5 with rotated GT35 that we built, it made 604hp at 2 bar on v-power on our dyno, it spools up about 300rpm later than yours Shaun, and I think that was run in 4th not 5th, so probably be very similar spool on my dyno gear for gear. FYI I have added some hoops at the rear to improve the strapping so 540ftlb can be run in uk/jdm 4th gear on a newage.

Shaun

Sy,
It's asking a lot and stripdowns will be par for the course I suspect, if that kind of power level is realised. I have a feeling this is going to be quite chewy on the cost front, but I need to investigate my expectations and be sure of what I may be letting myself in for and whether I can justify the cost before I comit. Transmission will also be a concern, especially for launches.

Richard Bulmer is speaking to his supplier in Asia next week, to verify supply and landed cost of block. This is a block that Richard had used in his demo Spec C, but unfortunately the engine dropped a valve and totalled the bottom end before his first ScoobySprint event last year. I believe he had put quite a bit of development in to the engine, which made it even worse. That turned out to be a very dear "crap" valve. Unfortunately he never got round to completing another build with a new block.... it was anticipated to crank some serious BHP on that engine last year.

Paul,
That is similar to what Litchfield / Powerstation achieved in 2006 on their Type25 Race Car on VPower. The Cossie heads and cams seemed to work marvel with a GT35. I suspect this is the arena that they actually start providing some appreciable gains.