Which of their clay bars were you using Hedge? My soft clay from them is ok

 

Boredom has set in so I have started removing my rear inner mudguards to reveal the rust on my sti hatch. I will treat it the same as Hedge and Rusti but also want to go towards the front under the plastic skirts. How do the skits come off. I can see the plastic buttons underneath I assume you just have to pull the skirt away from the car. Is that correct?

 

All you need to know about "cleaning" a hatch
https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...09-spec-c.html

 

Just pop out the large ones underneath, and one small one at the front, and then pull it away from either end. Put something soft underneath as it tends to drop. The wing insert can be pulled off the same way. All those latter plugs should have a soft thin rubber washer on it; sometimes they stay stuck on the car, or near invisible on the clip, so don't powerwash them off.
I've got some of the upper clips spare if anyone breaks one, but they're cheap as at Vehicle clips uk.

The clay was medium, I think, but it was a year old. It was really hard to work.

 

You'll end up like me doing everything!
I did spend alot of time cleaning before hand; powerwash, then Surfex diluted at about 10 or 20%, scrubbed, then powerwashed again, then working on the rust. And some time to dry well. If you're on your back underneath it, goggles and a mask are essential.....I stupidly didn't use a mask, tried the underseal in the wind, and realised the fine mist was up to window level. I definitely felt it on my chest.

 

Thank you Don. I'm quite chuffed that I've inspired fellow hatch owners, but not a patch on your levels at all.
.....that reminds me, I didn't take the spoiler off, and I think that has those rust prone metal lug screws

 

If you do the front arches, be really careful of the metal "flaps" that are part of the wing, and hold the liner up when all the clips are removed; they are tucked in under the arch lip, and do not tolerate bending along their seams

 

Thanks to both Don and Hedge.

 

who was doing the rear light tints ??

 

Phil Beckwith

 

thanks mate

 

one work needed... WAXOYL

 

Waxoyl is very old technology compared to Dinitrol or Dynax, which have been independently lab tested against each other. I'll leave you to find out which ones came out top regularly.

 

Whiteline promptly sent me these replacements, now branded on top so maybe stronger?

 

hi could you please let me have the part number for the whiteline top mounts as I need some for my Hatch
Thanks.

 

I'm certainly not recommending them, as they failed prematurely, as they have for others on here. Same with their rack bushes which lasted 9 months and were an MOT fail. Oem mounts are nearly half the price, and the other bonus is that they don't rust or gouge the turret top
But if you insist, it's KCA409. I'm considering selling these replacements and going back to standard

 

This ^^^ you just have to ask all the major jap importers what they use on fresh imports and its not Waxoyl.

 

My OEM ones are cracking and as they dont do STI Group N ones for the hatch I will be getting a set of standard ones again.

 

Yes they do
https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/De...s---20320zr100

 

That's a find, as they are normally 950 a pair. The mounts switched to pillow ball in 08 as group N operators were switching out the new age ones each race, and the rules changed.
I wish I had some spare cash at the moment.......but aren't they designed for coilovers?

 

Sorry Don meant the rubber ones like for the newage and fozzy as those are crazy cash for a pair.

 

They're nearly half price

 

Agreed but I currently run standard suspension and springs so theyre a bit overkill. Which is why I liked the rubber ones, they were very reasonable and a small upgrade over softer oem ones, or in my case cracked oem ones.

 

Not necessarily

 

only issue i would be concerned with is increased NVH, youd end up with a expensive ornament if you had to remove them due to being too harsh

 

Hedgecutter, when you were cleaning and treating the underside of your car, did you use BH Deox Gel on the rust you were unable to remove.
My plan was
1. De grease with Surfex HD
2. Remove as much rust as possible. Rotary wire brushes
3. Hydrate 80 treatment
4. Dynax S50

I think I might be better to use Deox Gel after step 2 to remove the remaining rust before using Hydrate 80.

Your advice would be much appreciated.

 

I used geox c gel on all the removable metal fixings, and anywhere paintwork was involved, to get maximum amount of rust off, but it needs to be covered for a good 12 hrs to be effective. I used hydrate 80 on all fixed components, as it was only surface rust. The dynax S50 is quite runny, so I only used it in cavities and seams, and around fixings, and on the fuel pipe because it needed it. I layered UB over the top to make it more durable. Good luck, happy to try and answer any questions. Just do as much prep as possible.
edit. Definitely good to use gel after step 2 if possible.

 

Thanks Hedgecutter.

 

Well got the garage painted during lockdown

 

I would add, in any areas where you expose quite a lot of metal and it gets real abuse ( corners of wheel arches) you may also want to use their zinc primer before the underseal to protect it further from stones and the like.

Oh and for the love of God dont get dynax on your shoe and walk it into the house as it will never come out