08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
Scooby Senior
I stand corrected. Sorry.
Ive asked him this morning and he thinks it was £130 delivered with £25 of that being import cost.
Ive asked him this morning and he thinks it was £130 delivered with £25 of that being import cost.
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
He knows me etc, I explained that basically a particular condition now prevents me from driving for a while.
Can probably do a deal with him for 14K, perhaps a bit more.
They do seem to be going for 16K ish
I don't particularly wish any test pilots knocking my door either, so what do you think?
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quick question. My current exhaust setup is as follows. Standard down pipe, Second cat delete, standard mid section and a ppp back box. I am thinking of going for a decat downpipe and getting a custom mid section made up with no resonator. Is there any disadvantage to this over let's say a h&s full decat system. As it works out much cheaper. Also will i need a remap after doing this?
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,995
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lets just say that the chance of your engine lasting for long without being mapped to suit the new breathing setup of the car would be in doubt.
With the well know ringland issues on the hatch I'd not alter a thing without a map!
With the well know ringland issues on the hatch I'd not alter a thing without a map!
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Right ok. Is there a disadvantage in anyway of fitting the system I mentioned above over buying an off the shelf decat performance exhaust?
The H&S ( or other brands ) are designed as a system so should work better used together. Also may well have been tested to measure reduction in back pressure, increase in power / torque etc.
And my previous & curent H&S exhausts can be wider bore to help flow for those after higher power.
H&S a bit noisy for me tho', I had an extra mid box fitted after.
Otherwise, unless you need that last bit of performance and the exhaust is the limiting factor, you'll be OK with a home made one, when set up / mapped in!
If you are just after more noise, fine, just map it!
If mapping, add anything else that needs mapping at same time ... CAIK etc.
And my previous & curent H&S exhausts can be wider bore to help flow for those after higher power.
H&S a bit noisy for me tho', I had an extra mid box fitted after.
Otherwise, unless you need that last bit of performance and the exhaust is the limiting factor, you'll be OK with a home made one, when set up / mapped in!
If you are just after more noise, fine, just map it!
If mapping, add anything else that needs mapping at same time ... CAIK etc.
Hayward and scott
I just ordered a new centre section with silencer from Hayward and scott for my car. Mine seemed louder than ever after having my heads worked on and the new downpipe for the rotated setup. I got a new baby on the way and the neighbours were getting annoyed so decided to get something done. It's not available on their website, but they will make you one for about £40 extra, or you can send in your existing one and have it converted. I will try and do a before and after sound sample for those interested. They said it will have no effect on performance at all.
Last edited by jaypSTi; 13 August 2013 at 08:50 PM.
Yeah, I asked about that after geting my full 3" system ( with sports cat ) the other year, but Ian wanted £200 for an extra box .. send 'em the midpipe or pop down ..
I went to nearer exhaust specialist place and got made to measure box fitted ( cut and welded in ) for around £90-£100, although may not be same quality stainless steel.
Works though.
Avoid stainless steel tubular headers, gets even louder!
I went to nearer exhaust specialist place and got made to measure box fitted ( cut and welded in ) for around £90-£100, although may not be same quality stainless steel.
Works though.
Avoid stainless steel tubular headers, gets even louder!
haha.....I do cringe most nights when I come home, generally I get home from work about 11pm. I live in a cul de sac, and have a car port under the neighbours house. It was bad enough before when I used to cruise in, reverse with minimum revs, then switch off asap. This is no longer possible with the twin plate clutch. I have to launch from 1 side of the cul de sac to the other, doing my 3 point turn at 3000 rpm so that it doesn't stall
I sold my 330S 4 weeks ago and got slightly more than that, but it had 42K on the clock. The dealer put it up @ 20K to start with and has now dropped it to 19K
haha.....I do cringe most nights when I come home, generally I get home from work about 11pm. I live in a cul de sac, and have a car port under the neighbours house. It was bad enough before when I used to cruise in, reverse with minimum revs, then switch off asap. This is no longer possible with the twin plate clutch. I have to launch from 1 side of the cul de sac to the other, doing my 3 point turn at 3000 rpm so that it doesn't stall
Just get the anti lag on an set off all there alarms hahaha
Does anyone else have a really rattly boot area in their hatch? I think it's the stupid retractable parcel shelf. I've taken it off and tried to pad bits out but to no avail. I've got next to no cabin rattles which I'm impressed with but the damn rattling from the rear is driving me nuts
Scooby Regular
Does anyone else have a really rattly boot area in their hatch? I think it's the stupid retractable parcel shelf. I've taken it off and tried to pad bits out but to no avail. I've got next to no cabin rattles which I'm impressed with but the damn rattling from the rear is driving me nuts
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Isle of Man
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found with the retractable parcel shelf that the orientation of the unit makes a huge difference, I have to have it so the retractable bit points down rather than towards where you fix it when extended and it stopped all the rattles for me. Bit more awkward to extend but no rattles anymore
Scooby Regular
I found with the retractable parcel shelf that the orientation of the unit makes a huge difference, I have to have it so the retractable bit points down rather than towards where you fix it when extended and it stopped all the rattles for me. Bit more awkward to extend but no rattles anymore
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,995
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On my old hatch I used to find the hard plastic trim arount the tailgate used to rattle a little so took a few bits off and shoved a few cut up car sponges behind the trim, worked a treat.
Does anyone else have a really rattly boot area in their hatch? I think it's the stupid retractable parcel shelf. I've taken it off and tried to pad bits out but to no avail. I've got next to no cabin rattles which I'm impressed with but the damn rattling from the rear is driving me nuts
Is the noise intermittent, sort of on, off, on, off, on, off ... I think it's called stacato ...
Sorry, I'll get my coat ...