Gauge Fitting Guide. Oil Temperature, Oil Pressure and Boost
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (34)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 0
From: Trying to pull a 10 second 1/4 mile running a standard 2.0ltr engine...
Gauges fitted today,all working ok but they DO NOT keep the settings when turned off and there is no shutdown sequence when turned off,they just go straight off.so when ignition turned back on the alarms go off and nothing has saved to memory...ANY IDEAS GUYS.

just fitted my gauges yesterday, tested and working perfectly, no oil leaks either, yeeehaaaa, used thread sealant on all fittings. onlything now is my heater fan doesnt work, strange, might have pulled a wire out from under dash ?
oil pressure when warm 90 psi @60 mph
oil temp 90 deg c @60 mph
Boost 15 psi
thanks for posting the guide up - it was excellent reference
cheers
oil pressure when warm 90 psi @60 mph
oil temp 90 deg c @60 mph
Boost 15 psi
thanks for posting the guide up - it was excellent reference
cheers
Last edited by Finlay007; Mar 9, 2011 at 04:54 PM.
i copped out and got someone to fit mine while i had a service done.
they've done it so on putting keys in the guages illuminate - is this right?
i was under the impression they would behave much like the dashboard and only illuminate when the lights are on? (albeit that they're smoked :S)
also, can i change the bulbs in the unit to green to match the dash?
ta
they've done it so on putting keys in the guages illuminate - is this right?
i was under the impression they would behave much like the dashboard and only illuminate when the lights are on? (albeit that they're smoked :S)

also, can i change the bulbs in the unit to green to match the dash?
ta
hi all, oil pressure gauge on my scooby is not wired up the the engine an was wondering if sumone cud help me work it out, there is a gauge an power to it but doesnt seem to be wired up, nor can i if a sender unit which i ave read about in ur post ??
I installed mine a while ago and have come to replace the audio head unit which was wired to the same, I have a Red, Black and a Brown wire, Red + Black - but what the hell is the Brown one for can't remember, Help anyone ?????
Last edited by The Big Fella; Apr 26, 2011 at 03:12 PM.
Hey guys, quick query re: boost gauge installation. I recently installed a prosport boost gauge on my 04 Subaru WRX. For the electrical connections I tapped in to my cig lighter as was suggested in the article. I followed install guide re illumination (my gauge currently amber @ night / white LED @ day). My car is stock/standard no mods just yet.
Intermittently I have noticed the gauge with no throttle applied is registering above 0 PSI, sometimes e.g. it will start registering @ 5/10/15 PSI instead of registering in vacuum. After a spirited drive the gauge will go back to normal operation (off throttle in vacuum)
. Can anyone shed light on if I have made a connection error somewhere?
Intermittently I have noticed the gauge with no throttle applied is registering above 0 PSI, sometimes e.g. it will start registering @ 5/10/15 PSI instead of registering in vacuum. After a spirited drive the gauge will go back to normal operation (off throttle in vacuum)
. Can anyone shed light on if I have made a connection error somewhere?
Was it for it's lighting? Or is it from the sender?
Your assistance is again appreciated.
Regards
Hey guys I found the source of my gauges weird operation! It turned out the sender/sensor unit was faulty, I obtained a new one under warranty and the prosport boost gauge is working perfectly now.
Thanks again for your help alcazar!!
Thanks again for your help alcazar!!
This is the how i wire the gauges
On the loom that comes from the gauges it will have 4wires(red,black,white,orange) fit long pin connectors to the red,black and orange wire *(white is not used)*as these will plug directly into the wiring block that was used for the clock. connect red wire from gauges to blue wire with brown stripe connect black wire from gauges to black wire connect orange wire from gauges to yellow wire with green stripe
hope this helps
On the loom that comes from the gauges it will have 4wires(red,black,white,orange) fit long pin connectors to the red,black and orange wire *(white is not used)*as these will plug directly into the wiring block that was used for the clock. connect red wire from gauges to blue wire with brown stripe connect black wire from gauges to black wire connect orange wire from gauges to yellow wire with green stripe
hope this helps
Last edited by brockalightus; Apr 30, 2011 at 02:05 PM.
Bit of help required !!
I'v tried wiring up a prosport boost gauge to the clock - 2nd hand jobby of ebay
Ground - Black
Acc - Red
Lig - White
Left out orange for the time bieng. For some reason the gauge isnt even powering on, no white lights or anything.
Also tried
BAT = Battery.....positive...Red wire (constant power)
GND = Ground ...negative....Black wire (ground)
LIG = Lights on/off..........White wire (illumination)
Makes no difference with lights on or off.
Possible faulty gauge or blub?
I'v tried wiring up a prosport boost gauge to the clock - 2nd hand jobby of ebay
Ground - Black
Acc - Red
Lig - White
Left out orange for the time bieng. For some reason the gauge isnt even powering on, no white lights or anything.
Also tried
BAT = Battery.....positive...Red wire (constant power)
GND = Ground ...negative....Black wire (ground)
LIG = Lights on/off..........White wire (illumination)
Makes no difference with lights on or off.
Possible faulty gauge or blub?
Those gauges have FOUR wires for a reason:
RED: permanent live, ie : NOT switched.
ORANGE: switched live from ign. etc.
WHITE: lights.
BLACK: earth.
Try that and see what you get. There should be a sender with two, or three wires AS WELL AS those four.
RED: permanent live, ie : NOT switched.
ORANGE: switched live from ign. etc.
WHITE: lights.
BLACK: earth.
Try that and see what you get. There should be a sender with two, or three wires AS WELL AS those four.
btw... take it the gauge should still power on without the sender connected?
i just want to check it powers on before running the vacum and wiring the sender.
Yes it should power on, but it may do NOTHING or weird stuff.
Defis don't like their senders unplugged, yours may be the same.
TBH, to be sure, I'd plug the sender in temporarily.
Defis don't like their senders unplugged, yours may be the same.
TBH, to be sure, I'd plug the sender in temporarily.
Got the gauge Powering on when i feed the wires directly into the clock harness plug
Last edited by wrx84; May 4, 2011 at 05:49 PM. Reason: Silly wire taps
Just a quick update, Gauge powering on
Wired as follows:
Ground - Black
Acc - Red
Lig - White
Followed this guide:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1426484&page=2
Turn the key 2 notches, needle becomes visible
White backlight comes on with head lights, currently not using orange as i prefer the white look
Not wired the live (red) to the Battery connection of the harness as this was causing the gauge to stay powered on even when the ignition was off. This may be of more use to the prosport gauges that have the peak button??
Next step - Sensor
Alcazar - Thanks for the assistance......so far !!
Wired as follows:
Ground - Black
Acc - Red
Lig - White
Followed this guide:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1426484&page=2
Turn the key 2 notches, needle becomes visible
White backlight comes on with head lights, currently not using orange as i prefer the white look
Not wired the live (red) to the Battery connection of the harness as this was causing the gauge to stay powered on even when the ignition was off. This may be of more use to the prosport gauges that have the peak button??
Next step - Sensor
Alcazar - Thanks for the assistance......so far !!
Last edited by wrx84; May 4, 2011 at 07:58 PM.
Those wire tap things are good, provided they are used with the correct gauge of wire.
The newer, "thinwall" wiring needs RED tap-connectors. I only have blue ones, which are for older wiring, so now tend to strip the outer with a sharp knife, wrap the tapping wire round, wrap the joint in a short length of thin solder and heat until it flows, then slide down a length of prefitted heatshrink and heat that.
The newer, "thinwall" wiring needs RED tap-connectors. I only have blue ones, which are for older wiring, so now tend to strip the outer with a sharp knife, wrap the tapping wire round, wrap the joint in a short length of thin solder and heat until it flows, then slide down a length of prefitted heatshrink and heat that.
Quick update - Boost Gauge fully installed.
By installed i mean velcro'd down to the steering column, with a bit of help from some insulation tape :-) (Need to now find a decent corner pod !!)
Quick question - With the ignition turned on the gauge sits at 0 psi
However with the engine running it goes below zero -when idling
Does re-act when i rev the accelerator.
Not taken it out for drive yet, so i cant tell if its reading the boost pressure properly
By installed i mean velcro'd down to the steering column, with a bit of help from some insulation tape :-) (Need to now find a decent corner pod !!)
Quick question - With the ignition turned on the gauge sits at 0 psi
However with the engine running it goes below zero -when idling
Does re-act when i rev the accelerator.
Not taken it out for drive yet, so i cant tell if its reading the boost pressure properly
Hey WRX84, the gauge operation you described is indeed how the gauge registers, whilst driving and off throttle the gauge will dip below zero and register in vacuum. With throttle applied you should register above O. You can always post what your car boost is registering at.
Regards
Regards
yeah at idle it will read vacuum as the engine is sucking in air. If you rev it but not in gear it will move but not beyond zero as you are not using the turbo. It will only show boost when you are on turbo.






