was it a subaru gasket? iirc the subaru one has a sort of squashable rib round it (bit like a d/p gasket) the cheapo ones are just flat paper type ones (which I personally wouldn't risk wasting my time fitting)

 

Well firstly, yes it was Scholar. I went with them because my usual engine feller up in Yarmouth was off on holiday when I needed the machining done (Allen at Engine Engineering, definitely worth contacting as long as you're not in a hurry LOL), so I went with Scholar. They were OK, but I have had endless problems with getting the valve clearances right because so much was taken out of the valve seats.

If I was doing it again, I'd have Allen do them, not Scholar. As far as I know there is no-one else in our part of the world who does engine machining.

I've not quite got in as far as the water pump yet, I'm tackling that tonight. But I'm pretty sure it was a genuine gasket. The pattern pump I got has a paper gasket with it, but that might be OK with some sealant on there as well. THis time I'll fill it up with water BEFORE I put all the belts and stuff back on.

 

Water pump is easily done with engine in car, don't remove it.

Pull the rad out and you will have plenty of room to do it all in situ. Given that it takes 2-2.5 hours to do a cambelt, and a water pump takes another half hour on top, do you really want to pull that motor?

And use a new genuine gasket which is about £6inc vat, or no gasket with sealant. The paper one is pretty poor, and if you try and use sealant with it you will have problems.

You may need to replace the 2 90º rubber hoses onto the pump, or at least replace the factory spring clips with decent jubiliee style clamps, but they need to be good ones that maintain a nice round shape and even clamping force.

 

I used the same pump and gasket as you on my build nick, im having no problems so far

 

OK well I'll go with sealant alone then. At least that way there's no chance of it leaking. Guessing I still go with 12NM in two stages of tightening around the pump?

I'm keeping the engine in. I definitely don't fancy lifting it again. I've got the rad out, front belts are off, belt cover fronts are off, now need to get the cambelt off...guess it would be best to take the spark plugs out and move the crank round to its starting position with the pistons all roughly halfway down in the bores so the cams won't be anywhere too weird.

 

yup, rotate engine so pulleys ar where they would be when you fitted the belt, carefully remove tensioner then get the exhaust cams off lobe without clashing the valves together. then proceed as normal.

 

Cool, I'm on it right now then...

(some time later) OK everything seems going according to plan. Stuck the car in 5th, lowered it to the ground to keep the wheels locked and cracked the crank pulley bolt, turned crank to the right position and checked cam wheels, crank pulley off, undid the cambelt tensioner (must remember to go and clamp that tensioner down!), took the cambelt off, removed the idler cog in front of the water pump, removed the three water pipes in the side of the pump, then the six bolts around the circumference. Came off easy, it seems like the coolant was leaking out of the little relief drain hole in the back of the pump, so yes the seal was done for. Guess it's better for it to come out there and drip on the floor rather than **** out all over the cambelt.

Anyway, I did have a brand new genuine gasket that I put on there and tbh it came out dry, no sign of leakage across it from one side to the other. I wonder whether to just refit it. It's not been on there long!

 

Update: it's mostly back together now, just need to redo the intercooler pipes to get the dump valve right and rearrange the catch tank location then it should be ready to start up. 6 litres of coolant has gone in OK, just going to wait for that to go down then top it up once it needs it. No leaks so far. I reused the Subaru gasket in the end and it seems fine. Cambelt was no problem really...

So while I was sorting everything out again, I also finished up the new arrangements for the catch tank and intercooler pipework. Here's the old dump valve and catch tank locations. My old Autobahn FMIC had a slightly different DV take off position so I needed to change my 45 degree elbow for a 90 degree one you'll see later on. The old catch tank doesn't fit in so well with the new Hybrid pipework so I'll be replacing that as well.



Here's an overview of the whole engine bay with everything pretty much in place, all the belts and the rad back in position at the front after the water pump disaster. If you got on with it, you could swap a water pump in around 3 hours I reckon.



Front end view including the new FMIC. Ignore the rusty bumper bar!



An overview of the last intercooler pipe in the run, which I split close to the battery for ease of installation and rejoined with a silicone hump hose. You can also see the DV take off with a basic 90 degree silicone elbow to join it on sideways to the standard v3/4 DV which I've always used. My DV hard pipe under the inlet manifold is 'freed' along with the rest of the pipes under there, this makes installation a breeze.



Close up of the DV positioning:



Close up of the hump hose where it runs right by the positive battery terminal:



View of the belts, covers and radiator all back in place after the water pump replacement, which also involves cambelt removal:



The new catch tank from CDF is the standard cuboid design but it will fit with the space I have a lot better. It intercepts the main crankcase breather outlet but then is Y'd off to the two original connections at the PCV valve and the inlet pipe. This system has worked fine for me in the past so I'm sticking with it. The tank looks a long way down because it is - mounted on the side of the gearbox. It's the shiny thing just above the blue DV elbow pipe in the photo.

 

when u turning that key, im days behind u know, even tho u av done a little bit more work than me. i just want 2 make sure it runs in b4 i fit my new fmic, oil cooker, catch can etc.

fingers r crossed for u mate.

 

Well, I'm putting the headlights in tonight, then gonna run it on the starter for a while to get oil round the system. Tomorrow, I'll reconnect the crank sensor and try starting it up, if the weather's OK. If it starts I'll take it for a run for 20 minutes then drop the oil.

 

Good man

 

Has this engine been run yet? If not, please read the thread(s) in General technical about first running of a fresh engine.

 

id need to start it that night, lol, if all it is is crank sensor, id need to hear it run, and if ant issues, work all night and call in sick

cudnt find nething that pavlo was on about tho

 

I've been keeping myself up to date on this thread for months now. I think I am as excited and nervous as you must be Silent. Hope it goes well..

 

This one chaps https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ter-build.html

 

Hay i logged on specifically to check what was happening with this, good to see all is going well now.

Wish you look with the first start.

 

ahh, i started that thread, lol, im not with it today

 

I think nick already stated how he was going to rung his engine in? Good luck with the start up tomorrow nick. Hope it all goes well for you mate. After all the effort you put in you deserve it to be spot on

 

OMG I've been so engrossed reading this from the start I didn't realise it was 2.09 in the morning!!
Well done on a brilliant article. I'm just gutted that I've got to the end and......the start up has yet to happen.
All the best and I hope it fires up a treat.Will be reading again tomorrow.

 

Bugger! That's another job to do then, putting oil in the pressure sensor hole to get the pump primed. Do I have to do that? I coated it in plenty of assembly lube when I built it, won't that do? And I've just had the battery on a full overnight charge.

Anyway, no I didn't do anything on it tonight, I went out instead. Tomorrow I'll get right on it soon as I'm back from work.

 

Ooh exciting....soo nearly there.

Of course you want to put the oil in pressure sensor hole. Imagine not and it causing you to do another rebuild!

 

Did you read the mentioned thread?

Pull the plugs out, disconnect crank/cam sensor, spin the motor until you've got pressure, refit plugs, reconnect sensors, start.

 

You dont need to pull the cam sensor out, just the crank one

 

I'm paranoid though!

 

omg, i cant believe he went out, bets im one of the 1000's waiting to read, its a runner come on, getting excited.

on a pants note, im still waiting on a stupid timing belt kit that should have been her yesterday. 3 days gone of fiting my rebuild. i love punctual companies.

 

LOL well it's not that I don't want to put oil in the pressure sensor hole, it's just I wish I'd known about it when I'd had all the belts and the alternator off. The rest of it I knew about anyway as I've churned the old engine on the starter to get it up to pressure before anyway, that's no problem. I didn't prime anything with oil then. And seriously, everything that needs it is well coated in assembly lube inside the engine.

 

are u starting it tonight, if its all lubbed it will be fine, all i done with mine was use oil on build, so iv gotta prime pump with oil and turn over and hope oil does its job till the pressure is up. i cant see no issues

 

So why isn't it running? It takes half an hour max!

 

i kno, i feel like a sado watching and refreshing my page, lol

 

Urghhhhhh..............the suspense is killing me