Got it. I'll see what they can do for me then. Will they need hardening afterwards or can they be used as is? Or can you make some up?

 

The pipe shims come hardened, they are a bitch to machine (normally grind them)

 

FYI some Alfas run that type of shim

 

Grinding it is then.

 

Dont forget that valve springs may need shimming to restore lost pressure.(fitted length of spring will be longer as spring cap is further away from head).

 

What, so shim out the spring seat by another 1mm say? Will it make that much difference?

 

Excellent thread - very honest and informative -thanks for sharing it.

Post up any parts you need - I ve got a few engines in pieces (V5 heads - 2.5 blocks though) - but will help you if I can.


Sy

 

If there's anything I need I'll be in touch, cheers! At the moment, Mick (merlin24) is sorting me out some STi2 RA top hat shims, saving the cost of having to get hold of brand new ones from Piper or Kent. Just got another replacement valve stem seal out from Mark (Lateral) so all I have to do now is build up the valvetrain minus shims and tappets then machine down the shims and put it all together.

 

Assuming you get the shimms etc you need , what valve clearences will you leave ?


Sy

 

0.20mm inlet, 0.25mm exhaust. That's what I'm aiming for at least...

 

Thanks to Mick (merlin24) I now have a set of STi2 RA top hat shims which are a perfect fit for my v3/4 valve stems. He also sent me the v2 retainers to see whether they might be useful. As it turns out my existing v4 ones work better, so that's what I'm keeping. All I have to do now is take my shims off to the works for machining down and then I'll be ready to assemble the heads.

STi2-Type RA top hat shim with matching retainer, on STi3/4 spring




Same top hat shim with v4 retainer and spring:

 

Can you post a pic of the inside of the top hat shim? How tight is it on there? How far is it away from the colletts?

Thanks

Sy

 

They're off being machined right now. But it's basically around 2.5mm deep internally. They are a nice close fit on the top but not super tight or anything. The bottom of the shims come up around 0.5mm above the collets from memory, once assembled. Certainly no less than that. I think the 'top hat' name is kind of misleading. They are much more like a cylindrical cup really, that sits upside down on top of your stem.

 

Thanks Nick, some more stupid question if I may.

1. When you measure clearences for the valves - does the head have to be bolted to the block so that any movement/stress in the head is allowed for?
2. Do you measure using a dial gauge or feelers?
3. Do you mesure with everthing dry? i e no Oil on the stems - shims etc.

Sy

 

1. Yes
2. Feeler
3. Dry

 

You got me worried now Matt - I went for:
1. No, did it on the bench
2. Feelers
3. Oiled, because I couldn't build up a pair of heads without it?

Picture of the crankcase starting to become a 'short block' (i.e. with ancillaries beginning to be fitted - water pump and self-modified oil pump):

 

Just fitted the cog on the crank plus the pair of idlers and other cog on the front of the block. Jammed the flywheel so I can do up the bolt on the crankshaft pulley, but how tight does it need to go? I did the idlers up at around 40Nm for starters, the crank bolt I've done to 120Nm. Pure guesswork at the moment! Anyone know off the top of their head? Should I locktight all the idler/pulley/cog bolts as well?

Also, I remember what a pain in the **** it was to slide the crank pulley and cog off - is it worth applying a little copper grease first to stop it seizing on later?

 

[QUOTE=silent running;8124131]You got me worried now Matt

[QUOTE]

Are we talking about the same thing? shim clearances between the cam and shim?

I think the crank pully bolt was eith 96lbft, 104lbft, or 114 lbft lol

 

I'm thinking clearance between tappet and cam lobe. Following which, you can then start sorting through shims to get the right ones to give final assembled clearance of 0.20/0.25.

 

Ah, well i checked my shim clearances dry, Whilst bolted to the block (strongly reccomended apperantly). Once they was correct i disassembled and lubed up

 

My own mistake for not working it out in mm.

 

LOL oh well too late now. They can't be too far out. I'll check them again once the heads are torqued down for good. If any of the shims need adjustment then I'll do it at that stage. What I've got at the moment should get me close enough.

 

Nick,
Torque the front pulley bolt to 127Nm with a little smear of your ARP head stud lube on the underside of the bolt head and a little on the thread.
A light smear of moly on the snout of the crank and keyway will ensure the cambelt drive gear/cog will come off again in the future - they tend to corrode in place due to the heat generated and transfered forward by the oil pump.
Good to see the build is coming on well now

Mick

 

So I wasn't too far off then Mick? Thanks for the tips. Have you had your shims come through yet?

 

Seems like your starting to get somewhere nick

 

Got them through today Nick - Cheers - guess it will a full day in the garage tomorrow shimming up/final assembly and then a bench test for compression and oil pressure.

Mick

 

And I thought my Imp was bad in the late '70's

DunxC

P.S. Great write up !

 

Update time: had a bit of a quiet spell, waiting for the next pay day. Just ordered the final few bits I need. Got a new idler pulley (old one was a bit noisy for my liking), 3 genuine oil filters for running in, a pair of cam cover outer gaskets (I'm reusing the bolt washers and plug hole seals as they feel decent enough still), fuel filter and genuine modine oil cooler, all for £166 off Import Car Parts. Can't argue with that when Subaru wanted £145 just for the modine, the crooks!

Harvey's sending me a new Hybrid GT Spec FMIC kit. This will replace my old Autobahn88 which did the job before but on a build like this, I need the best and for the money, it's a no-brainer.

Will post up photos once I have the stuff. Haven't had a chance to pick up my machined down top hat shims yet, will pop along next week, then get the heads built up and hopefully shimmed easily.

 

The Hybrid GT Spec FMIC kit has arrived, and it's quality. Definitely a big big improvement over the old Autobahn I used to run. The pipework is in a different league as is the core itself and the quality of the clamps. Proper instructions and the extra joiner for the dump valve are there too. I am hoping for big things from this kit.

 

Looking good there mate