Mike,

Some people like the ION turbo's and said they were the best thing since sliced bread, John banks didnt, that's his opinion..

As for saying its uninformed, when / IF I get my mail server rebuilt and back online then Ill see if I can find my uninformed source of information, however in the mean time When I was looking around for a turbo in 2001, I spoke to FP, I spoke to yourself, I spoke to scoobysport - Lets not go there! and I ended up having mark do me a hybrid td05 with a garrett wheel.. (Incidently I think this is before lateral was formed) - To be fair I never used this turbo!.

My main problem with forced performance is they woudnt supply a compressor map, nor would they tell me how much air they thought the turbo was capable of flowing, all I got was quarter mile times and dyno plots which really dont excite me! (or didnt then!!)

If people want to buy forced performance turbo's then fine, Ignore what I have posted, as its only a comment.. and Im sure people will do some research before parting with a £1k

Must resist!!!

Anyway may I refer you to http://www.scoobymania.com/news_article.asp?id=18



DRB, the clinic have some in

David

 

Cheers David. Will get in contact with them.

Just trying to find out more details on Jerry's SZ53 at the moment too...works/spanner.

 

should be good, if its similar to the one paul was using

David

 

I'd expect his was still a bit larger than the 53 though?

Not asking too much of the gearbox, if i DO go for it too. Enquiry form sent to the clinic as well.

 

Turbo wars will never end. Different setups and different people prefer different things. There is a fine line for exhaust wheel or housing sizing relative to your compressor and this is where a lot of the hybrids can be tricky IMHO. What worked on Harvey's built 2.0 on race fuel did not work well on my stock 2.5 on Optimax with octane booster. Whilst we suspect I got a different turbo to Harvey despite what I asked for, the compressor map may suit a high boost/high revs 2.0 far better, in the same way that a 20G seems to suit a low boost/low rev 2.5 better than maybe it does a 2.0. I did my homework on the iON because of previous disappointments, and greatly irritated Harvey in the process by pressing for details about fuel used etc, but it still didn't help me pick a winner for my setup and preferences in the end. For my 2.5 the 0.82AR GT30R-12 I followed it with was a bit big on the exhaust housing for a stock internals engine.

The hits I've had for killer power band and response have been:

2.0 Scooby with TD05H-16G
2.5 Scooby with TD05H-20G
2.0 Evo with stock TD05H-16G big

Other highlights:
2.0 Scooby with VF28 or VF34
2.0 Scooby with hybrid TD04
Big rotated Garrett on a built engine running silly boost with high octane (of course...)

There still seems no certainty over gearbox choice. drb5, I think you need to watch for feature creep, remember why I sold the car to you... I had no proven options to go to, had held back from built engines after an initial dabble then 2.5 headgasket problems, then I had gearbox isssues.

 

OK, maybe that was a little harsh and I'm not saying you're not entitled to your opinion, clearly you are and your opinioin is as valuable as the opinion of the next man in off the street.

The tuning game in this area has moved on an awful long way over even the last 3 years alone though hasn't it.

I'm an FP Agent, and I don't have compressor maps available to me either, I doubt they even exist as the performance of the Turbo can be measured in much easier ways without. Some things never add up in reality to what is implied on a compressor map? All of the other info is available though, In fact, I can't think of any Turbo specialist who supplies Compressor Maps for Hybridised Turbos?

As for research into (particularly) the FP Green and Red units, the point I was making was that contrary to your casual and unsupported "blow off" of them as products it would have been helpful if you could have intimated WHY you thought they performed so badly?

That would have to go against the grain though based on the consensus and volume of good feedback which is openly available about them?

You can if you like, in what way does that alter the validity of what I've posted. I'm a little more chilled about it now, that was like 18 months or so ago, and I now don't mind if anyone knows where I work or not? I comment on what I want, but in no way near the level I used to try to help people with. That is just the way the board went as it became almost entirely commercial. <shrug>

Mike.

 

Cheers John. Much appreciated.
Already got Gazzasti's Wiseco pistons, new Cometic head gaskets and i'm in the middst of getting some rods and head studs...ok, it isn't an RCM built(or similar) engine, but it should hold together ok for 430ish hp and 400+ torque. Those figures aren't OTT i think and even though maaaaaybe the current v5 sti box, once repaired, would hold together, i'm sure something a bit stronger and a bit newer, wouldn't be a bad choice. I do still have to get a shot of one though. Halleys never got back to me about a test drive.

 

Did you blow up the previous engine then?

 

Nope, still going strong.

 

Well Andy will be mapping my 2.0L with garret GT3076R at his place with my UK six speed once its all fitted so your welcome to come and have a go in it then.

Would be less of a trek for you too.

Daz

 

Neither am I, and I'm not having a dig. I'm just pointing out that FP know what they are doing.

I'm sure you fabricated most of it yourself so probably not a lot, but for 95% of people this is not an option, hence off the shelf parts are required at great expense. You could easily spend £3k fitting a rotated setup, and if you don't know a friendly MOT station, or get caught out with a roadside emissions check then re-fitting the stock catted dp is a right royal ball ache. The large inlets are also not the best for maf based ECUs. But I'm sure you know all that. Hence there is a place for large bolt-on turbos and at £1200 the FP Green/Red are a pretty good and proven compromise.

By that I guess you have a compressor and turbine map for a MD321T? Or the 63 trim '42' wheel in a TO4S ported shroud housing? Or any MD series? Do you think Mark has? and do you think he would post them if he had?

Maybe, after all it's basically a copy of a .....


drb5,

I would echo John Banks' thoughts re turbo choices, I've recently gone from a 72lbs turbo to a mighty VF35 It went on as a stop gap... but it's still on after 3 months... I'd forgotten what fun country lanes could be

 

Yer i see what your saying.

The more i hear and think about gearboxes, the more i don't think it's worth going mega...but then i wonder if strengthening the block is even worth it!

I think some more time and consideration is needed.

 

Thanks Daz.

Give me a shout when your coming up and i'll see if i can make it over.

 

I decided to opt out of the turbo wars and pick this combination, which I have been very happy with

 

Paul did have a 55Ibs Wheel, and It was built to Paul Spec.
The 53Ibs one that Jerry had (now that you got it), Is a ver of something I order after talking to Paul on what to get.

It's basicly a GT30R in 52trim wheel IF I remember correct, so not true copies In my meaning , as both my and Paul turbos were built to to our spec.

It will do 400/400 on plain optimax with a 4-2-1 headers, and with some better fuel and a 4-1 header I would guess ~430-450 shouldn't be a problem.
Great turbo on a 2.5L


/Jan

 

Maybe it's more powerful than i expected then...ho-hum.

Better get the rods and pistons fitted for sure now.

Thanks Jan.

 

FAO John Banks - Hi John, re your comments on sti 6 speed selector problem between 4th and 5th...did you have a gear crunch problem?

I've got this, going up or down into 5th, only a small crunch and much less or not at all if get the revs about right.

 

It popped out of 5th after a run down the drag strip.

 

Ah, I see, thanks John.

Not like what I've got...thinking of trying different oil to see if it will allow smooth gear changes when pushing it from 4th to 5th.

Any you recommend?

 

Your problem sounds the same as Alan Bells, crunch into 5th, difficult unless revs right.

His was a badly worn Synchro, which needed to be replaced.

 

Craps! Box has only done approx 8000 miles...

How much is changing a synchro? It will be box out etc I guess?

 

Is Alan Bell about? I'd just like to confirm if his box crunched all the time or just when booting it and changing into 5th? At less of a throttle usage the gear change into or down to 5th is fine, no crunch - does that still point to synchro?

 

Nothing at all wrong with a 6sp box in my car and it suits me down to the ground..... it all depends on what you want and what you intend in doing with the car.

Tony,
Sorry mate..... but over 350lbft Hold on a minute...... there's a pig pink flying.

Regards,
Shaun.

 

Yep Im about, my 5th gear used to crunch only on a high reving drag run. Got that seen to , now my 2nd gears suffering ??? Im running over 444/442.

 

Alan,

Whats the best 1/4m time your car has done to date?

Regards,
Shaun.

 

Not really good for the power I have ?? 12.6 @ 116mph . Yours should be better stripped out as it is , Mines fully loaded

 

Interesting, thanks Alan. Seems mine crunches sometimes and not others - I've currently running 420 ft lb but even gentle changes have made the odd crunch into 5th (this has only happened once or twice though)...It does seem to be giving it large that makes it worse. Is there an easy way to tell if the synchro is duff without strip of the box etc - I still wonder if I'm using the best gearbox oil?

Also, how much did it set you back to fix the synch?

 

£120, Plus box out then back in,

 

Cheers Alan for the info.

I won't say what mine does..... I dont want to upset you.

Regards,
Shaun.

 

Alan's a big bloke though shaun, and I really think the size of his arms are slowing his gear changes He's definitely got the lead right foot and corrrect left foot with 1.6 60ft times though