I was quoted the following for my Sept99 Scooooob

Listers £125 + Vat
Roger Clark £125 + Vat

http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk from the web site :-

If you would like to contact us here at Roger Clark Motorsport then you can do so by either filling in this form or by using the contact details listed below.

Telephone: +44 (0) 1455 828610
Fax: +44 (0) 1455 828620

Email:

info@rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk
sales@rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk
parts@rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk

 

I've changed the boost solenoid over today. No change. Car is booked in for new plugs and leads on Wednesday...

 

Thanks for the update .
I will be cleaning the pipes and solenoid this weekend, (which will not work).

When it does not work i will order another Actuator as Journeyman has tryed the Solie. Assuming we have the same problem!

 

Found this in a FAQ file i had buried on my laptop. ! Thought it may be usefull. It will be 4 me this weekend.


The 1997 specification lowered the turbo boost pressure from 1.0 bar to 0.9 bar. The engine breather system vents into the air intake and it is possible for the oil and condensing, burnt oil vapours build up in this valve. This valve is a safety device for detecting overboost and will cause fuel and ignition to be cut if it senses that 1.2bar (97/98 models) has been reached. If it is bunged up, it isn't sensing correctly and will shut down the engine under high boost conditions. The solution advised by Subaru France was not to fill the oil up to maximum but to leave it at half filled only.

If your wastegate solenoid does pack up, the fix is to pull the T shaped supply hose off and fill it with brake cleaner from an aerosol. Then go for a blast before the cleaner evaporates. Tippex thinners also do the job. '98 models have a revised part, which is three port sensing and there have been no reported failures. You can get '97 cars upgraded.

Apparently the fault often occurs just after a service when the oil level may be slightly too high. The 1998 specification engine apparently has revised sensing locations, to over come the above problems but there have been some reports of failure on early '98s.

Sometimes this fault is incorrectly termed as "over boosting". The sensor is designed to detect an over boost situation and is usually so sensitive in normal operation that 1.19bar = ok and 1.20bar = fuel cut routine due to over boost. When it becomes contaminated by oil, this is lost and the sensor can cut in at much lower boost values, cutting in the routine under normal hard acceleration. The effect of this routine is quite disconcerting as all engine power is suddenly lost with some drivers reporting it feeling as if they have just driven into a brick wall!

was taken from sidc faq http://www.sidc.co.uk/faq.htm for full FAQ

Stubbz

 

Hi guys.....thought this may be of some help.
http://scoobycity.co.uk/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=8

click on boost problems and problems solved. This seems to be a common problem and many people are suffering. Personally im going upto Scooby clinic as soon as. Like other owners im getting really p****d off with this it is so annoying.

Does anyone know of any specialists in or around London???

Thanks Guys

 

Just an update to tell what i have found over the weekend.

Cleaned all boost pipes, Boost solenoid and actuator. this did make a difference but then, problem returned.

Next i desided to remove the actuator from the equation, so unplugged the wastegate actuator and plugged the feed to it. This could be dangerous especialy if your boost solenoid is fault, but i was confident that was working and the actuator was at fault (see my actuator movie listed above or @ www.stubbz.com).
The hesitaion was gone ! boost all the way upto about 4700 rpm then it was like hitting a brick wall, sudden loss of everything ! I was expecting this however, and was the boost solenoid reaching its safty boost limit and cutting, fuel and spark to the cylinders to stop the turbo exploding, this was because i had effectivly kept the wastgate closed.

So i am ringing Graham Goode Racing (www.grahamgoode.com) for a new actuator. about 100 + p&p + vat, they have an oem actuator or others at different boost (crack) levels.

I may get a 1bar actuator as boost is slightly higher than standard, or does anybody think this is overkill and a standard is good enough ?
Hopfully the next post will be good news !
Stubbz

 

Good to see you're finally getting somewhere stubbz
What boost are you running?

If after Wednesday's plugs and leads change mine is no different I'll be looking at the actuator too

 

I have know idea what boost i am running, i belive its slightly higher than standard, what ever standard is ? (Sept99). But my remap was done with standard actuator.
I called Listers to ask a price for a replacement actuator, the bloke on the other end said "actuator? i have never heard of one of those". I think i have a TD04 turbo and apparently the actuator is not avalible seperatly and you have to buy the whole turbo !
So a call to Graham Goode who confirmed this. They asked me to to double check the turbo make as the chasis number can sometimes not indicate the correct turbo. They can however get hold of the replacement actuator but would be a week delay.
So i am popping out 2night with a torch to try and find a TD04 some where on the snail of the turbo.
Good luck with the plugs/leads !

 

buy a boost controller on jap ebay for £100.

i got old apexi avcr for £115
its awsome , i should have done it ages ago
and its a peice of p"*ss to fit

 

Yes it was a TD04L, so actuator now on order. hopfully will get b4 xmas. Journeyman let us know how the plugs etc go, (i am sure you would anyway)

 

Managed to get the boost sorted out. Now the MAF is gone AGAIN. Is it me ir is this every scooby?????????????? i love the car but its driven me crazy

Thats IT my scooby days are over. cant take it anymore. sick as a pig

 

I'm off the sick list!
My car's hesitation problem was plugs, you could have driven a bus through the plug gaps
I've cleaned all the boost pipes out and got new HT leads, now the car is boosting really well and pulls right through the rev range smoothly.
Hurrah!

 

Well i have replaced the Actuator, still problems :~(
She need a service now so will get the plugz and leadz changed as this fixed Journeymans problem.
Happy New Year to all !!
Stubbz

 

Sorry to hear that Stubbz. Don't give up. Plugs & leads are the way to go...

 

I have similar problem with the boost. It wasn't passing over 1.11 bar with a TD04L. I changed the turbo to a Super16G recently and guess what happened.. It doesnt pass over 1.1s!! I think I should throw this car to the junk yard.

My check list before super16g

- checked for cracks of the wastegate, (OK)
- checked the vacumm pressure of the wastegate (OK)
- checked the spring sensitive of the wastegate (not sure)
- checked the adjustment of the wastegate arm and tightned 3 full turn(not helped much)
- checked the restrictor (OK)
- changed solenoid valve with AVCR one (not helped)
- checked for pipe leaks (not the exhaust pipes tho!)
- checked if turbo mechanically charges the maximum boost by putting out the wastegate pipe(YES, it does 22 psi - TD04L)

 

same thing wont boost past 0.5 of a bar will just go over in 5th waste gate opens and dumps the air and sits at 0.5 no air leaks tryed fiting a bleed valve no help my boost controler no help

 

my 95 wrx import suffers from similiar thing it runs fine boostin to 15 psi then u go to 4th 5th gear the boost climbs gets to about 13 psi then dies down to 8 psi then it wont move above 8 psi in any gear then if u drive it nice and gentle for a while the boost comes back but goes again in high gear i was told car was pinking other garage said it was pinking they checked the plugs and coils said everything was fine no more pinking and that the boost was caused by the three port boost solenoid they cleaned it but still not working i think it is still pinking caused by the coil packs cause i have new plugs in it ngk 7s would the car pinking cause the car to cut down the boost would like to here your thoughts

 

i had the same problems with my car, MY93. i turned out the be the ECU, car would only boost to 6psi, sometimes a little higher. after changing a lot of parts i took it down to scoobyclinic who changed to ECU (1 from a newer car so more boost) and the cars been fine since.

I might be worth buying a secondhand ECU before spending anymore money on parts

 

Think thats the next stop. a pal of mine lent me one but the connections didnt fit, think it was an STi one anyway! ah well.

Thanks m8

swiftc

 

Plugs changed still no good
need to change leads next then when that does not work ! i will need to change the boost controller.
If all that does not work it must be the ecu/ mapping control.
Will post back with news
Phil

 

this must be 1 of most common faults, mibe hesitates an sometimes only runs half boost, bloody annoying, ive changes plugs an now goin through other things

 

i had some problem cleaned every thing lowered oil level ,
one thing that did help was i cleaned my air fillter

matt

 

Replace the leads now, guess what still faulty !
I am staarting to loose the will the live
To be honest i was not suprised as the boosting problem i am having did not feel like a miss fire, as revs still climb with no sick sound or hesitaion, when ever i have driven a car with miss fire problems, inc a single seater race car (with a speed limiter that cut spark to 1 of the cylinders!) the acceleration of the car is slowed as oposed to the problam i have where acceleration is still climbing but fails to climb at a constant rate. Think that makes sence ?


Whats next ? well the cheapest option i guess is the boost valve/solnoide. Then the ECU.

Anybody any idea on the cost a a replacement ECU (second hand) ?

 

I got one off here m8 for 50 squids! and it was the nuts. For 50 squids i thought sod it! It seemed alot cheaper than going down hurt lane and splashing out on coil packs and the like. I was offered other ECU's anything up to 150. Just make sure you get the right one!

It worked for me!. good luck m8

swift C ........Back again swiftin it up on the rough streets of Luton...flying the scooby flag once again!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ordered a boost valve/solenoid
Desided to change this firsts as i have money tied up with the current ecu in the form of a remap.

If the boost solenoid does not fix it i will try reset of ecu (pull batterie off for 30 mins). Then i will be lookin for an ecu, but i will have to get it mapped also i supose.

Stubbz

 

New Boost duty valve fitted, and ecu reset. Still same problem, looks like i need an ecu.

Any advise on weather to go for a standard replacement or an after market ecu.

Stubbz

 

Get an aftermarket one fitted but have it remapped to your vehicle.
It will take into account the fuel type, airflow and all the other stuff that will be unique to your car. It should also get you a useful power / torque increase as well.
Should cost around £400 for a remap but take into account the hour or two's charge for the rolling road as well.

 

She is booked into Power Station to find the problem. Its obvious the problems I am having is since the remap, hopefully Rich (bloke on the right) from Power Station can find the problem (hopfully with the map) and fix it or atleast confirm the ECU is sh*gged, so i can look for a replacement.

Next Post should be either fixed or ecu on order.

thwaappp !

Come on Petter ! hope fully we will do better in Mexico.

Stubbz
www.stubbz.com

 

i had same problem not boostin over 0.5 took it to greer sport they saied car is over boostin which is down to an ecu fault. had to be ECU as i have got new coils, boost solenoid,and plugs. but that is problem if ur in a slow speed say 40 to 50 and try to accelerate the car overboosts and shuts down

 

Went back to Power Station last friday,
Wipped the car round to the Dyno Cell lifted me bonet, then had a chat with Rich about whats happening and what i had done, explained "it" happened about a week after they remapped it for me.
He was very symithetic and looked over the data from my last remap on his laptop, from that he could see my Boost solenoid was working at 80% at low revs/boost, this is prob causing problems at higher boost levels, He said he had remapped around 30 scoobs since mine and other people had described a similar problem with boost, mainly after putting your foot down to say overtake the easing off for a few seconds then putting your foot down again would cause the ecu not to provide the same amount of boost the second time round, i explained this was not the problem i was having but symptoms where similar as if i do not drive on boost and accelerate the car pulls normally then the next time i accelerate the fluctuating boost thing starts happening.

Rich recomended changing the Duty Boost Valve (Solenoide) to a 3 port unit, this would offer more acurate control of the boost and be able to bleed of the boost better.
So i am booked backin for the 3 port valve along with a remap on Sat, finger crossed.
Also said would adjust the mapping for me for free as i have had problems since the last remap, nice guys hey !

Price is about the same as the std 2 port valve, shame i had purchased a new valve a few weeks ago, oh well.

Roll on Sat !