Chrome, this might help, will post a pic/diagram later (tea time now!)

Graham.

 

Before any wise-cracks: This was taken before I cleaned/tarted it up for the MoT.

Graham

 

Ah, it all becomes clear! That looks like an easy mod to do, just take the brackets off the car and weld a bit of plate in one side of them!

I was going to weld additional pieces to the floor as I thought the mounting points would move sidewards rather than front to rear.

Thanks Graham for that info.

 

I used 10 swg plate, 2mm or 3mm plate will do too.
Graham.

 

ah right, thats interesting.. ta.

 

Some amazing info creeping into this thread and my original question was answered with the first response

I ended up with the 22mm on the front and from the feel of it, it was the right decision as it still has next to no understeer and feels very stable through corners. But for my money Wurzels classic is still the better handling car, probably due to the extra weight of the bugeye.

Graham, would you recommend playing around with the camber settings without getting a wheel alignment done everytime you change it? I have the Tein pillowball mounts http://www.tein.com/pumnt.html and am curious to play around with the settings after your comments, but I am thinking its gonna get expensive if it has to be checked for alignment each time...

 

This may make you think:I hill climbed the Sti in earnest the other weekend on a hill i know very very well.
I lowered the front end 15mm as i thought the front rode a bit high.
This was the first change to the car after the last full set-up 3 years ago.
The car was not happy = driver lost some confidence!
My best time was 60.1 secs for the 1 mile uphill drive with 19 bends in it!
I raised the car back to the 'original height' and did a 59.6, won the Class and that was a personal best time in 14 years of racing.
The car was back to it's former super stable self.

Just that one tweek ruined the chassis at the very limit.

The effect of lowering the front will have changes the ride height, the toe-in and the camber.
If you just change the camber you will change the toe as well as the location and the relationship of the parts all change.

Not sure if that answers your question but that illustrated to me just how much things are affected by a simple 'adjustment' without readjusting other parts!



Typical hill climb bend for you!

Graham.

 

I guess what your saying is that if its not broken dont fix it

 

I think he's saying that the OE setup isnt exactly fixed
It's a compromise of cost and convenience.

It's human nature to want more I guess, and it doesnt help when others do the alterations to their cars and get so many benefits from it