Carl,

Finally ordered my exhaust wrap for my Megan headers. When ordering I enquired about the high temp paint to coat the wrap after fitting.

The guy who took my order said not to do this due to it not being neccessary!! (Proven Products)

What are the benefits of painting the wrap then? He clearlt stated water not to be a problem.

Cheers,

Wayne.

 

Didn't Use
Ok, i didn't use the APS CAK i bought as i didn't have time to find a replacement filter. The original idea of a filter shield proved to be cheaper in the end anyway. Whether i can move the APS on now is a different matter.

Replaced
I replaced the STi V6 TMIC with the re-cored MY00 one really just to make sure it saw 300+.

Didn't Need (IMO)
Samcos are always a dubious one, i only bought them as i thought i needed the dump-valve pipe for the MY00 TMIC but it turned out i didn't and i may as well have sent them back. Ditto the gaskets which weren't really necessary. I suppose the only other thing i don't see as a nescessity on that list is the Zero Sports duct - but i still would have made an equivalent for nowt prior to the remap.

Andy, you and me both mate. I think the only things i actually bought new were the Headers (inc wrap paint etc - too cheap not to), Samcos (no need!!), Pump/Reg, Octane Booster and Plugs (no brainers). Even then i shopped around for the cheapest deals, the worst being the hunting for the exhaust wrap... Seeing pictures of the engine bay in Andy's 5 Type R quickly made me realise it doesn't have to look pretty to go like stink.

Best mod was probably the PFC. Having the facility to have Andy remap the unit for a modest sum makes it so convienient it's unreal. Untill Andy we just didn't have people like him in Scotland. Pre-PFC the equivalent would have been a Link and a trip to Swindon to have Bob do the dirty.

 

o well carl my car made 340 at wallace p tonight

david

 

Interesting about the pump reg and plugs etc. I've considered some bits on my spec that aren't essential from a raw power point of view but are important for reliability IMO and a good foundation for future upgrades...

F

 

Carl you have pm back

ta Steve

 

[QUOTE=markwild]TSL up-pipe (wrapped)
TSL Grp –A downpipe (wrapped)
TSL 4” Grp N back box
TSL decat exhaust centre section


Can i ask where you bought your tsl from???? Im after those same 3 sections? Is over £600 on tsl website! Thanks

 

would of thought that's about the right price, 300ish for backbox, 100 for centre & 200 for DP, only guessing though

 

Indeedy All bought new and direct from TSL - In fact, they fitted the BB one afternoon when I was there for Eibachs, I fitted the centre section and then I had them fit the DP later - I also wrapped it myself, when it was on the car - Which was NOT easy !!

Mark

PS _ Missed out the Up-pipe - I bought that from them, wrapped it myself and had it fitted by a local chap at the same time as the TDFE05 (The old up-pipe had a small hole in it from the rusted joint - I wouldn't replace this if not necessary....)

 

many thanks mark!

Just hoping it could be sourced bit cheaper elsewhere!!

Only keeping car a year or so as want to upgrade to newer so didnt want to spend masses on an exhuast but im really fussy on what noise my car makes!!! n set up you have sounds the best!!

Any suggestions for cheaper alternative? Ive looked at loads others around £400 - mongoose, magnex etc but dont seem loud enough?????

 

yeah i have been lookin about and is right price for what you get, just hoping someone new a secret of where to get the tsl cheaper!

cheers

 

yeah i have been lookin about and is right price for what you get, just hoping someone knew a secret of where to get the tsl cheaper!

cheers

 

Who else is going to sell the TSL exhaust other than TSL?

Quality can be bought at a nice price. Turbo back mine cost the following (ish):

Downpipe - £200 (i think, bought a long time ago)
Centre - £105
Backbox - £200

All Hayward & Scott so very good quality. If i'd known then what i know now i would've gotten it a little cheaper but we live and learn... As it stands the downpipe has been one of my best mods to date.

Good mod = cost x mileage on car x power increase

 

try ebay amazing what you get off there these days

 

Ive been scanning ebay for over a month!!!! Gettin impatient now!

Was goin for H&S but prefer sound of TSL. Any thoughts on mongoose or magnex (full systme inc downpipe)??? Ive got demon tweeks down to £400 for the lot on both systems. Might be the best option then treat my next car to TSL ????

 

whats with the tsl obsession?
there are a hundred and one combinations of exhaust.
hayward and scott downpipe and revolution centre/silencer here

 

I agree, but the TSL marketing machine is GOOD. Their stand at the Autosport show was impressive.

My system is off a crashed rally car, a Magnex semi open neck 3'' stainless turbo back.
Cost me £200 all in with a free dent or two, and turned 407 bhp x 340 lbft at Well Lane.
Best buy I have ever had for this bloody money guzzelling car

Graham.

 

Lucky S#D!!! Im hopin something like that will come my way but hate waiting! You rate the Magnex one then? I can buy it for £420 turbo back. Think its worth it? Only thing is i wanted 4" n its only comes in oval or 3"

 

A friend has a 480 bhp EVO5. To select his turbo back system he held a pin in his fingers and stabbed with his eyes closed a stack of exhaust systems. Bought the one he stabbed! (Mongoose)

Why are you fixed by the tip diameter?

It is the system that matters. I think today's Magnex systems are improved now, but mine has been fine and is not noisey, just nice deep burble

If i had my chance again I would by a Millitek system with sports cat. (£900) but I doubt I would realy again over my £200 buy (found in the small ads of Motorsport News)

Graham.

 

Carl mate let me know when my bit's are in the post

ta steve.

 

Carl thanks the part's came today

 

Now i'm back on dry land again i've spent the past couple of days doing the things i really should have had done prior to the remap.

So first priority to was to wash it...



Then to find out what exactly the headers were rubbing against. Turned out it was the O/S radiator bracket - so that was swiftly trimmed down! Patched up the worn-through wrap as best possible as well.



Then it was a case of routing the loom neatly away from the heat of the headers and refitting the undertray, which leads me onto my next question... Why do people remove these? Cooling (surely negligable)? Tired of taking it on/off? Weight? The fridge is a little quieter with it fitted anyway and i can live with the weight and removing/refitting it.

Also had to fit big nasty plates as Mr Policeman took a disliking to my baby one after the RR Day. I got away with it for 2 years at least.

 

mine never came with an undertray anyway mate
i dont even know what one looks like

 

Carl,

I had to do exactly the same when fitting my Megan's. Trimmed down the radiator mount and moved the wiring.

Its doesnt look like you have much paint on the wrap though? I used the brush on stuff and gave it 2 good coats. The fumes given off were really bad and it has only just stopped smoking today, a week later (300 miles).

What are your thoughts on the headers proximity to the sump?

Wayne.

 

People remove the undertray to aid cooling. I did this in Germany in summer to try and reduce the inlet temps but it had no noticeable affect that I could see. I suppose the oil temp could have been reduced slightly? What did happen though was that the gearbox tray removed itself in spectacular fashion and top speed reduced through extra drag.

I would try to leave it on as it will keep the majority of crap out and could help air flow through the engine bay IMO.

F

 

That was my theory Floyd, glad i'm not going mad! My main concern when refitting was how much clearance was left between it and the headers but i think i'm in the clear.

Wayne, i sprayed two coats of paint on, but as the headers have worn in the paint has more or less burnt off - they were a very healthy shade of grey when fitted. My car has done nearly 1000 miles on them now though. WRT the sump i don't like it - my oil pressure has dropped marginally due to the increase in temp from the headers.

 

...but i've been wanting to try this for ages. I didn't feel it deserved taking up a thread on it's own (not with Andys almighty IM one ongoing ) so here it is.

There's been very little done to my cars handling since i bought it 2.5 years ago. I fitted some H&R springs after trying some Eibachs and that's about it... So (foolishly?) believing the hype about solid rear drops links i thought i'd make some of my own.

The inspiration!



LH/RH thread rose joints for a turnbuckle type link.



Turn, turn, turning away...



Harder to get a swanky finish with hex bar.



In comparison with standard.



Still to tap the threads but that will come once i've been to London for the wifes birthday.

The fridge is as it was and is flying along nicely - the Evo 6 RSX and MR340 drivers didn't know what had hit them. I'm dreading the day i come across a well-driven one. In all honesty the RSX made me look silly on the bends although i got the run on the straights.



The car still seems to be under-performing for the mods. However, the only things i want to and can think of trying are venting the breathers and having the TD05 inspected. This may be coming sooner rather than later anyway as my local Shell is going to be no more in the v. near future. Bye bye 98 RON fuel. So of course, we'll have to remap.

 

Carl:
Nice to see you back on here.
You will be getting used to the bhp and craving for more....don't know of an antidote for this except children!

Gulp.

Even with the '407 x 340' engine in the Sti and the legal/safe opportunities to drive it right to the max of my cr@p abilities, it is almost feeling stock UK Turbo slow...

Nice looking links, but are you sure that straight ones will fit as all the aftermarket ones are 'U' shaped (ish).

Graham.

 

PMSL, (just been out and checked) looks like i've been making front links then... back to the drawing board! Didn't realise it curled around the rear arm, thought it was to allow more flex.

<screws up day and chucks it in the bin - ignore the idiot>

 

Sorry, but 10/10 for trying!
Graham.

 

Carl, machine the u-shape out of aluminium and put your rose joints in that............then make me a set