How hard do these need to be used to get the heat build up (as in point 3) ?

e.g. 80mph to 0 in hundred yards, or 120mph (private road - obviously), does this need repeating ?

Mine vibrate when stopping from 70+, but never from below 70 - even this vibration is only 'sometimes'.... Had them a few months now, but only used properly since a remap in early Aug.

Running with DS2500 pads.

Did think perhaps it may be a suspension issue, but not sure (it doesn't do it when the brakes aren't on) - the vibration is like a wheel out of balance (i.e. judder), rather than a single pull left or right (i.e. no car 'drift')....

Other than when they do this, they great - and fill my 18" wheels nicely !

Ta,

Mark

 

100 to 0, 2 or 3 times.
Mine does the same as yours. Still get odd vibration during braking now and again.

I've got DS2500's as well. Does your brakes squeal?
Not sure if there is anything to do about vibration, not sure if it's just impreza bump steer issue being magnified by bigger disks?

 

hmm - wondered about the bump steer myself - but it sometimes does it on a smooth road - and its more of a judder - I suppose my question was 'how hard to brake' - I can brake from 100-0 over a mile and not warm them up - I've heard someone say 'hit them almost to make the ABS come on !' !!

They squeek slightly at low speed, even when they're off - but I've run ds2500s on different disks for 3 years now, so I'm used to that (LOL)

I'm considering going talking to Ian G (I've already mailed him) to see if I should pop in to see him - maybe he can shed some light on it ?

Mark

 

The squeal is most likely due to the friction material - any pads that are classed as competition or sporty are formulated to be higher friction than standard road pads. This is from any material manufacturer - some may do it more than others. If you want the pads to stop you more quickly then you've got to dissipate energy through the system in a shorter time (higher power density / duty cycle) - some of this energy is released as heat and some is lost as sound energy (squeal, squeak, groan, moan etc - all different ways of describing the sounds you get under braking ).

Higher friction pads by their nature have a higher friction level spread across more of the operating curve (more bite at lower speeds etc) and this translates into a higher chance of getting squeal and squeak at lower speeds (in traffic around town etc).

Standard road pads can be formulated to have higher friction at higher power densities (i.e. pressing on more speedwise, higher temp etc) and "lower" levels at "ordinary" road speeds.

It's the nature of the beast and always a compromise between performance and comfort (where have I heard that before? ) Certain formulations are made to have modified frictional properties, others may have different fade properties at different temps, and others may be better for wear rates...

Also, as mentioned, the shape of the pad meeting the disc can have an effect on how the energy is dissipated - you've probably tried chamfering the leading edge of the pad and things have quietened down for a while until you wear away the taper and the noise restarts... One reason race calipers have different sized pistons in the calipers is to effectively adjust the travel of the pad as it contacts the disc - if they make the trailing edge contact first before the leading edge then there's less chance of high energy "instability" and hence noise etc.

Mark, if they're squeaking at low speed even when they're off, are you sure the pistons are retracting into the caliper and not sticking which holds the pad onto the disc, albeit lightly?

Andy

 

Bttt

 

Bttt

 

Seems most of the questions are answered for me ,lol , many thanks guys have been workng too hard of late



tony

 

Any likelihood of getting any more bods in? - I smell the chance of getting a further £25 back

Paid for my kit - just waiting for delivery...

 

Am i to late for this g-buy ?

Mike..

 

Gunner , no I think they only have about 5 orders , he was taking up to 10 , so email him - ian@godspeedbrakes.co.uk

 

Mail him mate, your be able to get in on the group buy.

simb

 

How hard is the kit to fit and how long does it take?

Could any old 'local' garage do the work or does it need a specialist?

Are the standard hoses man enough or would they need to be changed as well?

 

How hard it is depends upon how competent you are with the spanners etc I wouldn't like to guess on a time frame...

A garage could do it if you don't want to - I think there's a set of instructions with the kit or if not then use the search as there's a set in a word document somewhere - possibly on Ozzy's personal web pages.

If you're considering changing the hoses then do both jobs at the same time as you then only have to bleed the brakes once rather than twice You'd have to email Ian for info on which hoses fit depending on you keeping the original calipers or fitting others, eg Brembos etc...

Andy

 

My kit landed this morning - thanks Ian just got to find time to fit it now

I haven't open all the parcels yet - didn't want to cover the living room floor with too much stuff like Christmas morning

PS sneaky BTTT

 

When I asked about the hoses I wanted to find out if they needed changing or if the standard hoses could do the job?

 

If you fit the kit that uses the standard calipers the standard hoses can be used , if you fit the Brembo kit the hoses are included as the standard hoses dont fit the calipers , or you could buy a Goodrich kit from him if you want to change to braided ones

 

Now then!

Ive got the same 355 kit as most of the group buyers here and was wondering if anyone thought about the rear upgrade? The 325mm kit (from Ian Godney) that retains the rear calliper and has the bell/rotor configuration much the same as the front. The kit is about the same price as the fronts and gives a better much flatter braking experience.

The only concern I had initially was that the hand brake shoes act directly on the aluminium bell, but this only causes a problem if used while moving ie hand brake turns etc. Which I cant see me doing on the road or track.

Anyone?

 

I don't know if there is a problem with the rear conversion but one of the lads from the RB5OC has been waiting 6 months for delivery of his brakes and payment has been taken.

 

Yes there was a problem and the brackets had to be changed and tested , I saw he sent 2 kits out last week , I think Ian said one of them was going to someone on here

 

Bttt

 

My Brembo 335mm Kit arrived on Monday - looks good! Planned to fit this morning (first chance since they arrived) and it was dry (no garage) ... I get ready with the stuff and 1/2 hour later a 'tropical' rainstorm passes over ... still it may clear up enough to have ago.

 

Jonathan Smith's Instructions

Stefan

 

Good instructions ... I am now assuming that I need to tap the holes for the Brembo kit .... I did not consider this before but maybe I should have asked! Never mind ... I'll have to wait till I get me a tap then.

To attach the braided hose to the metal pipe do I just undo the nut on the pipe side and pull the rubber pipe out? And do I have to use anything like plumbers tape or some sort of sealant on the hydraulic connections?

Ta

 

The Brembo kit needs no tapping , they fit on with no mods

 

Fronts done ... was straight forward once I opened the second caliper box (the one with the instructions!!).

 

 

Cool glad everyone is happy with the kit



Tony

 

Just ordere replacement front Disc's and Pads for my STi02 :cool;

Trackday at Bedfrod in Feb so needed some new Anchors

Tony

 

Where's Bedfrod ?

 

Whoops.......Dam keyboard, keeps making Spoolink misstacks LOL

Tony