Oil change - a joke!?
#31
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i did mine last sunday, borrowed a 4 poster ramp from my mate at quick fit, took me 20 mins or so and i dont have to pay for the 10/40 semi mobil one oil they sell to customers
i do mine every 3k and every 3rd oil change i change the filter, saved me a small fortune
and the oils coming out really runny now and theres not that much dirt in it, nice and healthy!
i do mine every 3k and every 3rd oil change i change the filter, saved me a small fortune
and the oils coming out really runny now and theres not that much dirt in it, nice and healthy!
Last edited by StickyMicky; 12 May 2004 at 11:12 PM.
#32
I get my own oil . Filter from halfords. My local garage will do it for nothing but i always bung him a £10. I know garage in stoke does the job for a £5 yes five british pounds.I would do it myself if i had a ramp.lets face it undo a nut unscrew a filter not rocket science is it.FILTER £5.99 OIL £20-£25 DEPENDS ON BRAND.
YOU SHOULD OF CALLED THE POLICE BILLYTHEKID
YOU SHOULD OF CALLED THE POLICE BILLYTHEKID
#34
the big end bearings in a Subaru engine are about 50% the width of a "normal" straight 4 engine because the loads on the big end bearings in a flat 4 are lower, so the crank is designed to be as short as possible to maximise the flat 4 layout advantages.
It's a sensible precaution, knowing that you have 50% less area of oil to break down when you have no oil presure, to prime the oil system.
It's a normal dealer and specialist procedure to prime the oil filter and crank the engine with the cam sensor disconected.
By all means choose to ignore this advice and precation, but its rather a stupid attitude knowing this engine layout is more prone to failure during an oil change than your average engine. Is 20 minutes extra really that much of a burden to you?
It's a sensible precaution, knowing that you have 50% less area of oil to break down when you have no oil presure, to prime the oil system.
It's a normal dealer and specialist procedure to prime the oil filter and crank the engine with the cam sensor disconected.
By all means choose to ignore this advice and precation, but its rather a stupid attitude knowing this engine layout is more prone to failure during an oil change than your average engine. Is 20 minutes extra really that much of a burden to you?
Last edited by johnfelstead; 13 May 2004 at 01:21 AM.
#36
Originally Posted by wrx_sti_my04
......and you didn't question the cost? The labour is free for the 1000 mile inspection, so even with Mobil 1, mine only cost £50.
#38
Originally Posted by corradoboy
1) Warm engine
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20 seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilise
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
2) Drain old oil from sump
3) Remove old filter
4) Pre-fill new filter with fresh oil. Fill and keep filling until it won't take anymore.
5) Apply new filter
6) Apply new washer to sump plug and tighten
7) Fill engine oil filler to mid-way between two holes on the dipstick
8) Disconnect crank sensor
9) (Preferably) remove spark plugs
10) Dry crank engine at least until oil pressure light extinguishes - ideally for 20 seconds or so more.
11) Refit spark plugs
12) Refit crank sensor plug
13) Start engine, leave to idle for a good minute or so before driving for oil pressure to stabilise
14) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
15) Go for slow drive until engine fully warmed
16) Top engine oil to upper hole
17) Check sump plug and filter seal for adequate tightness/leaks
#39
how many people out there actually do the full procedure then when they change it, any people not do it and have any problems?
Last edited by xiw2155; 13 May 2004 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Pleb knows nothing!
#40
Originally Posted by xiw2155
bit pointless tho filling the new filter if when you fit it to the engine, because of the angle, it all pisses out again, so no difference to not filling it up at all is there, then you turn it to tighten it and more pisses out. meanwhile it runs down the filter onto your hand and down to the elbow.
Dipster
#41
Originally Posted by xiw2155
bit pointless tho filling the new filter if when you fit it to the engine, because of the angle, it all pisses out again, so no difference to not filling it up at all is there, then you turn it to tighten it and more pisses out. meanwhile it runs down the filter onto your hand and down to the elbow.
I have also been told you can develop a hestitaion problem at about 3Krpm if you start the engine up without gaining full oil saturation. The knock sensor is a microphone, and picks up the extra noise in the engine on first start up, adn suspects this is knocking and so retards the ignition to compensate. The older ECU's cannot then re-adavnce the timing when the knocking has vanished, and apparently the good old battery disconect reset will not rectify this problem, you have to have it properly reset. <- this is only what I have been told, and so may not be the gospel truth.
#43
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Corrado boy, all that attention to detail and you didn't even clean the filter mating face and oil the new seal, don't forget to tighten the filter to 5white knuckles
#44
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Mine only charged me £95 for an Intermediate Oil change with Fully Synthetic Oil Most Servicing Jobs are quite simply but can be very expensive if done inncorrectly .
Another Tip
Keep checking for Oil leaks Once the Engine gets to Temp or a few miles check for leaks around Filter/ Sump Plug again
Common causes of leaks are
Sump plug left loose or an old damaged seal left on.
Oil filter left loose and not tighten up correctly
Oil Filter seal "Blown out" of seat, sometimes attributed to being fitted "Dry" or to excessively tightened up.
IMHO/IIRC
Tony
Another Tip
Keep checking for Oil leaks Once the Engine gets to Temp or a few miles check for leaks around Filter/ Sump Plug again
Common causes of leaks are
Sump plug left loose or an old damaged seal left on.
Oil filter left loose and not tighten up correctly
Oil Filter seal "Blown out" of seat, sometimes attributed to being fitted "Dry" or to excessively tightened up.
IMHO/IIRC
Tony
#45
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never changed oil myself as yet but im sure garage probably don't do all the steps recommended.
if you read your owners handbook for car from SUBARU.
All it shows you is usual way .
1, warm car up.
2, drain old oil
3, remove old filter
4, fit new filter
5, fill with oil
but could have step 5a missing.
5a, return car with fcked big end shells to main dealer and re-morgage house ,
place wife on game to pay bill!
if you read your owners handbook for car from SUBARU.
All it shows you is usual way .
1, warm car up.
2, drain old oil
3, remove old filter
4, fit new filter
5, fill with oil
but could have step 5a missing.
5a, return car with fcked big end shells to main dealer and re-morgage house ,
place wife on game to pay bill!
#46
just to say the filter on an h6 is horizontal and a bit bigger as well so you can't fill that one up. the bearings are about the same size. yet there is no reports of the bearings going on them can anyone explain why?
#49
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Originally Posted by xiw2155
so how neccassary is all that dry cranking business and filling the filter.
on my astra i changed many many times i lost count actually, i never did that, whats of different that it needs special tlc
As John says, the EJ20's design mandates that the main bearings are considerably narrower than those typically found in two litre inline four engines. This smaller bearing surface area means higher pressures, and a greater tendency for the oil film to break down if flow is temporarily cut off. Once metal to metal contact starts, it appears to be a cumulative process from there on.
Incidentally, the crankshafts on the New Age Imprezas have additional oilways in them, so it seems Subaru were aware of an issue with the older cars and took steps to correct it.
Originally Posted by MadGrip
that looks a lot like the sequence I typed up CB
#50
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Originally Posted by Valkeerie
I've never done work on an Impreza, but I wasn't too encouraged when I opened the bonnet and couldn't even see how to reach the spark plugs. Is it done from below???
#51
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Probably going to do my oil change this weekend,
has anyone actually done a scooby oil change without the dry cranking?
Where exactly is the sensor i need to disconnect to dry crank the engine?
What is dry cranking?
Scooby novice here
has anyone actually done a scooby oil change without the dry cranking?
Where exactly is the sensor i need to disconnect to dry crank the engine?
What is dry cranking?
Scooby novice here
#52
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I always use the proceedure earlier suggested. I did'nt used to but after seeing two different cars at different times both having big end failure about 30 to 40miles after an oil change i changed my mind.Its only a little extra time, I'd rather that than the bottom end let go.
#53
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Originally Posted by andykidman
has anyone actually done a scooby oil change without the dry cranking?
Where exactly is the sensor i need to disconnect to dry crank the engine?
What is dry cranking? Scooby novice here
What is dry cranking? Scooby novice here
Last edited by greasemonkey; 13 May 2004 at 10:20 PM.
#55
Ultimately, if you're going to change your own oil, it's your decision on how to approach it. I follow the "procedure" ,because too many knowledgeable people have pointed out the likely results of ignoring it. That's my choice, and if it still goes bang, despite this approach, I'll cope with it , knowing I tried my best to avoid it happening. How are you going to feel if yours blows up, a few hundred miles after a service which doesn't follow this procedure,
( a common occurence ) and it turns out that, for the sake of an extra 20 mins of aggro, you've run a bearing dry? £1500 to 3K for repair or replacement engine doesn't bear thinking about, and isn't an unlikely outcome. People like johnfelstead and greasemonkey clearly know what they are on about, and their advice is free, why come on here and ignore it , or even more ridiculous, take issue with it. Loads of people ready to fly in the face of common sense, as always.
( a common occurence ) and it turns out that, for the sake of an extra 20 mins of aggro, you've run a bearing dry? £1500 to 3K for repair or replacement engine doesn't bear thinking about, and isn't an unlikely outcome. People like johnfelstead and greasemonkey clearly know what they are on about, and their advice is free, why come on here and ignore it , or even more ridiculous, take issue with it. Loads of people ready to fly in the face of common sense, as always.
#56
I'm quite new to Scoobs, i had a my98 for 12 months, found this forum a essencial source for info. Yesterday after reading through this info, i decided to do a general service following the guidelines.
Got most of my kit from halfords, expensive oil and plugs, cheap air and oil filter, but no Sump plug washer.. being near Subaru in widnes, i went down and got one from them, was 89p and cos i was paying on card thought i'd get a fuel filter, becuas i didnt know when it had last been done, it's every 30, 000 miles and my scoob has done 84. So i bought 1, £21 ouch. Anyway asked in passing the guy there about changing the oil and how they go about it. This is a main dealership remember, and he said they dont dry crank, just warm her up and drop the oil, replace plug and and filter and fill back up.
Needless to say, if you want to follow the guidlines set out here, unless you do it yourself or go to a "specialist" you cant be sure the procedure is going to be followed, back street garage or dealer.
I did lose some skin.. with the plugs, hehe and even forgot to put the cap on the drain bucket for the oil, oil everywhere. But for the most part it was ok.
On my98 the Oil filter was vertical, and the engine guard has to come off, i jacked the car up on the left front, and manged it all ok. I did dry crank for quite a while, but couldnt get the oil presure light to extinguish. hopefully, ive done enough, i did have the plugs out when i did it.
I'm not mr grease monkey, but i had a go, "half a day" and it was done.
hope she lasts the week.
ted
Got most of my kit from halfords, expensive oil and plugs, cheap air and oil filter, but no Sump plug washer.. being near Subaru in widnes, i went down and got one from them, was 89p and cos i was paying on card thought i'd get a fuel filter, becuas i didnt know when it had last been done, it's every 30, 000 miles and my scoob has done 84. So i bought 1, £21 ouch. Anyway asked in passing the guy there about changing the oil and how they go about it. This is a main dealership remember, and he said they dont dry crank, just warm her up and drop the oil, replace plug and and filter and fill back up.
Needless to say, if you want to follow the guidlines set out here, unless you do it yourself or go to a "specialist" you cant be sure the procedure is going to be followed, back street garage or dealer.
I did lose some skin.. with the plugs, hehe and even forgot to put the cap on the drain bucket for the oil, oil everywhere. But for the most part it was ok.
On my98 the Oil filter was vertical, and the engine guard has to come off, i jacked the car up on the left front, and manged it all ok. I did dry crank for quite a while, but couldnt get the oil presure light to extinguish. hopefully, ive done enough, i did have the plugs out when i did it.
I'm not mr grease monkey, but i had a go, "half a day" and it was done.
hope she lasts the week.
ted
#57
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Originally Posted by TedRainhill
Anyway asked in passing the guy there about changing the oil and how they go about it. This is a main dealership remember, and he said they dont dry crank, just warm her up and drop the oil, replace plug and and filter and fill back up.
Needless to say, if you want to follow the guidlines set out here, unless you do it yourself or go to a "specialist" you cant be sure the procedure is going to be followed, back street garage or dealer.
hope she lasts the week.
#59
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This is the thing I don't understand about the "Don't bother with that, never done it before, don't see why I should start now" brigade. It doesn't add 20 minutes to the service time if it's done in the right order, probably less than five minutes in a garage servicing context.
It's such a simple thing to do, and can potentially save so much time, aggro and cost, that I can't see any reason at all not to do it, bar laziness, or the knowledge that it's someone else's car you're working on.
It's such a simple thing to do, and can potentially save so much time, aggro and cost, that I can't see any reason at all not to do it, bar laziness, or the knowledge that it's someone else's car you're working on.
#60
They only said they dont do the dry crank bit, he didnt mention the filling of the oil filter... Of wich by the way was like a freekin tardis.. My mobil 1 just seem to get sucked up by it. Not funny when 4ltrs costs £36 from halfords...
But all the same.. they should do as they say to do i guess..dry crank!
I'd recommend anyone have a go.. though plugs could be tricky for some..
Ted
But all the same.. they should do as they say to do i guess..dry crank!
I'd recommend anyone have a go.. though plugs could be tricky for some..
Ted