JDM Sti 6MT into a Euro Classic.....
Exciting stuff
.
Richard - disappointed to hear you won't be coming
In exchange for this
could you answer a quick question? Do you monitor oil temperature, if so what is the normal operating range, and most importantly where is the sender? Thanks
.
Looking forward to pics of this, and (even more) seeing the results some time in the future! I'm actually in Munich, so perhaps we can meet in Stuttgart another weekend, perhaps some time in late March?
Cheers
Richard
ps Hey, my first corner on the new BBS!
.Richard - disappointed to hear you won't be coming
In exchange for this
could you answer a quick question? Do you monitor oil temperature, if so what is the normal operating range, and most importantly where is the sender? Thanks
.Looking forward to pics of this, and (even more) seeing the results some time in the future! I'm actually in Munich, so perhaps we can meet in Stuttgart another weekend, perhaps some time in late March?
Cheers
Richard
ps Hey, my first corner on the new BBS!
Last edited by Re-Bitten Hero; Feb 18, 2004 at 12:23 PM.
I'm embarassed to admit that no, I don't currently monitor oil temps. Been waiting...and waiting, for the new engine for this. But a normal range is anywhere between 85 and 95 degrees during normal hard road use (on cars I've abused). You could expect this to edge up a bit on track I guess.
Temp sender is normally either mounted in the sump plug (Subaru's preferred location), or in the sump pan itself. If you're is reading abnormally high, make sure the sender probe is actually in the oil (
), and that it's insulated from whatever fixes it to the sump.
Richard
Temp sender is normally either mounted in the sump plug (Subaru's preferred location), or in the sump pan itself. If you're is reading abnormally high, make sure the sender probe is actually in the oil (
), and that it's insulated from whatever fixes it to the sump.Richard
Thanks. Is there a way of finding out? Different part numbers? I'm happy with the way it drives currently, but it's yet to be driven on track.
Richard
Richard
Last edited by dowser; Feb 21, 2004 at 04:48 PM.
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Richard, back now, jetlagged to hell, all ski -ed out, fresh powder and all.
I think I'm right, the suretrack in the front diff is an extra - quite an expensive one if I recall. If you got one in the box I sold you - well done ! if you didn't - tough luck LOL. Never seen one out of a box - or in one for that matter.
I am currently driving a classic type R that has a viscous front diff fitted and can't see any reason to do it. I imagine the suretrack will just make the front of the car feel a bit more pointy and probably wear out tyres even faster on the inside edges.
If anyone is driving a car with one fitted the feedback would be useful to most of us as a reason to either do or not do it.
Glad to hear that the conversion saga is over and that it was worth it. Sorry about the prop problem, didn't notice any damage at our place - maybe in transit??
Glad to help David API
I think I'm right, the suretrack in the front diff is an extra - quite an expensive one if I recall. If you got one in the box I sold you - well done ! if you didn't - tough luck LOL. Never seen one out of a box - or in one for that matter.
I am currently driving a classic type R that has a viscous front diff fitted and can't see any reason to do it. I imagine the suretrack will just make the front of the car feel a bit more pointy and probably wear out tyres even faster on the inside edges.
If anyone is driving a car with one fitted the feedback would be useful to most of us as a reason to either do or not do it.
Glad to hear that the conversion saga is over and that it was worth it. Sorry about the prop problem, didn't notice any damage at our place - maybe in transit??
Glad to help David API
Thanks David - welcome back!
No worries re. the prop - I assume it was during transit, and *I* should have checked
Re. the Suretrac front diff - all Euro STi7's onwards have it, and it does make a difference (beneficial) which is noticeable with stock suspension. Equally, so did my classic 5mt with a Quaife up front (although the torque steer dropped as the suspension got more track focused
).
I'm happy with the way the car currently runs, but would still like to know what's in there. Does anyone have access to part numbers for 6MT with and without SureTrac?
Thanks, Richard
No worries re. the prop - I assume it was during transit, and *I* should have checked

Re. the Suretrac front diff - all Euro STi7's onwards have it, and it does make a difference (beneficial) which is noticeable with stock suspension. Equally, so did my classic 5mt with a Quaife up front (although the torque steer dropped as the suspension got more track focused
).I'm happy with the way the car currently runs, but would still like to know what's in there. Does anyone have access to part numbers for 6MT with and without SureTrac?
Thanks, Richard
Mark - JDM market has a wagon STi which didn't come with it, and I believe on all low spec JDM STi's (there are 4 or 5 different spec levels!) it was an option only....
Richard
Richard
Just found a fairly major problem with the installation; the additional size of the gearbox has, I assume, led to a rise in charge temps over an extended period of abuse.
There is much less space between gearbox and chassis tunnel (max 1cm now) than before with the 5MT (~4-6cm's before?). This is no problem on short blasts, or on steady state cruising (100mph for 10 minutes shows 67 degrees at turbo outlet, 24 degrees at throttle body).
However, a 10 minute blast on my private test track, with ambients at 3-4 degrees, saw max TB temps of 61 degrees.....ouch. Imagine how high it would get after a 30 minute track session with summertime ambients.....
Not sure what I can do about this - I really don't want to fit an FMIC (Swiss laws are a bit funny with this sort of thing), although it may prove to be the only practical solution.
What else can I do? In effect, the air is having to split left and right to go around the gearbox now, whereas before it had a straight path down and out under the car (I guess). I thought to try and create a vacuum under the gearbox to draw air through - but I'm not sure how much affect this will have on lift. Does anyone have practical experience of such things? Do you think Prodrive would offer advice if I asked?
Other thing I can think of is to incorporate a water jacket around the outside of i/c, with an electric pump cycling water through a front mounted radiator. But I imagine the engineering effort will prohibit this excercise....
F*ck. Richard
There is much less space between gearbox and chassis tunnel (max 1cm now) than before with the 5MT (~4-6cm's before?). This is no problem on short blasts, or on steady state cruising (100mph for 10 minutes shows 67 degrees at turbo outlet, 24 degrees at throttle body).
However, a 10 minute blast on my private test track, with ambients at 3-4 degrees, saw max TB temps of 61 degrees.....ouch. Imagine how high it would get after a 30 minute track session with summertime ambients.....
Not sure what I can do about this - I really don't want to fit an FMIC (Swiss laws are a bit funny with this sort of thing), although it may prove to be the only practical solution.
What else can I do? In effect, the air is having to split left and right to go around the gearbox now, whereas before it had a straight path down and out under the car (I guess). I thought to try and create a vacuum under the gearbox to draw air through - but I'm not sure how much affect this will have on lift. Does anyone have practical experience of such things? Do you think Prodrive would offer advice if I asked?
Other thing I can think of is to incorporate a water jacket around the outside of i/c, with an electric pump cycling water through a front mounted radiator. But I imagine the engineering effort will prohibit this excercise....
F*ck. Richard
some info i found on part numbers of the 6spd....
TY856WB1AA is a STD frt, STD ctr 6MT, rev1
TY856WB1BA is a Suretrack frt, DCCD ctr, rev1
TY856WB1CA is a Suretrack frt, STD ctr, rev1
TY856WB2CA is an Export model (NZ, AU) 1.1:1 ctr?
TY856WB2FA is an Export model (NZ,AU), rev2
TY856WB2GA is a RA spec C w/DCCD,tranny cooler, rev2
The revisions on the "rev2" model I believe had to do with the oiling system within the tranny
there are more models and numbers, just not recorded yet.
TY856WB1AA is a STD frt, STD ctr 6MT, rev1
TY856WB1BA is a Suretrack frt, DCCD ctr, rev1
TY856WB1CA is a Suretrack frt, STD ctr, rev1
TY856WB2CA is an Export model (NZ, AU) 1.1:1 ctr?
TY856WB2FA is an Export model (NZ,AU), rev2
TY856WB2GA is a RA spec C w/DCCD,tranny cooler, rev2
The revisions on the "rev2" model I believe had to do with the oiling system within the tranny
there are more models and numbers, just not recorded yet.
Just found this thread!
Hope it will print out as I've yet to find the old 'Favorites' folder of the old Snet.
Can't you fix the TMIC by simple water spray? I also have seen Legacy models with a water to air TMIC, bit big and more weight?
I hill climb my Stiv3 and with slicks on I'm waiting for the trans to go bang, so very interested in the 6speeder.
Pleased you feel the poly bushes worked for you. Did mine a year ago and still the rear diff carrier assembly bangs up and down on a hard standing start. Have you fitted the Whiteline taper bolts to the rear subframe too?
Why did you not fit the Sti 240mm clutch also? I think Wallis/Banks have?
Really good thread and very imformative for us Scooby new guys. 911's are much easier to do.....
911
Hope it will print out as I've yet to find the old 'Favorites' folder of the old Snet.
Can't you fix the TMIC by simple water spray? I also have seen Legacy models with a water to air TMIC, bit big and more weight?
I hill climb my Stiv3 and with slicks on I'm waiting for the trans to go bang, so very interested in the 6speeder.
Pleased you feel the poly bushes worked for you. Did mine a year ago and still the rear diff carrier assembly bangs up and down on a hard standing start. Have you fitted the Whiteline taper bolts to the rear subframe too?
Why did you not fit the Sti 240mm clutch also? I think Wallis/Banks have?
Really good thread and very imformative for us Scooby new guys. 911's are much easier to do.....
911
Waking up this old thread again... 
I'm about to mount a 6MT on my MY98 classic Impreza. I was told I'd need a new downpipe, that a classic design DP won't fit beside the big 6MT box? Apparently this is not the case, at least I don't see any comments regarding it in this thread?
My 6MT box is from a MY03/04 european STI, so no DCCD. Am I right assuming the only things really needed are a 60mm shorter propshaft and removal of the lifting eyes? I will take both the flywheel and the clutch from a MY04 STI.
I couldn't find any other threads describing a swap like this, but I'm sure a lot of you guys have mounted a 6MT in a classic?

I'm about to mount a 6MT on my MY98 classic Impreza. I was told I'd need a new downpipe, that a classic design DP won't fit beside the big 6MT box? Apparently this is not the case, at least I don't see any comments regarding it in this thread?
My 6MT box is from a MY03/04 european STI, so no DCCD. Am I right assuming the only things really needed are a 60mm shorter propshaft and removal of the lifting eyes? I will take both the flywheel and the clutch from a MY04 STI.
I couldn't find any other threads describing a swap like this, but I'm sure a lot of you guys have mounted a 6MT in a classic?
The existing D/P will fit. No problem there.
The shorter prop.
You need the six speed gear lever assembly.
You can use either the five speed flywheel and clutch or the slightly larger diameter assembly from the six speed. I cannot remember if the six speed has a sensor so that needs checking out.
The slave cylinder rod for the clutch will need modifying.
Oh and in view of my disasterous experience with Pete Croney at the Old Scooby Sport, I would double check or obtain advice (from someone that knows more than me on the latest shape cars) that you have a compatible front rear diff set up. Your 98 car will be 3.545 rear.
The shorter prop.
You need the six speed gear lever assembly.
You can use either the five speed flywheel and clutch or the slightly larger diameter assembly from the six speed. I cannot remember if the six speed has a sensor so that needs checking out.
The slave cylinder rod for the clutch will need modifying.
Oh and in view of my disasterous experience with Pete Croney at the Old Scooby Sport, I would double check or obtain advice (from someone that knows more than me on the latest shape cars) that you have a compatible front rear diff set up. Your 98 car will be 3.545 rear.
Hey Harvey, thanks for your response!
Guess I'd better upgrade the clutch while I'm at it, this gearbox swap is among the cheapest mods around for a classic anyway, so a decent Exedy clutch fits nicely in the budget......... at least now when I know I don't have to get a new DP!
EDIT: A stupid question, but what sensor are you referring to?
Guess I'd better upgrade the clutch while I'm at it, this gearbox swap is among the cheapest mods around for a classic anyway, so a decent Exedy clutch fits nicely in the budget......... at least now when I know I don't have to get a new DP!

EDIT: A stupid question, but what sensor are you referring to?
Last edited by Miki; Oct 18, 2005 at 09:52 PM. Reason: typo....
I would suggest you transfer the wiring over from your 5 speed to the 6 speed, this eliminates any problems on that front, including the speed sensor.
There is no need to alter the clutch slave cylinder rod, either use the 6 speed one, if the box comes with one, or just use your 5 speed one.
Finally, as Harvey mentions, the key thing is to ensure the diffs match up.
There is no need to alter the clutch slave cylinder rod, either use the 6 speed one, if the box comes with one, or just use your 5 speed one.
Finally, as Harvey mentions, the key thing is to ensure the diffs match up.
Thanks for your comments, guys.
Have you upgraded the clutch when fitting the 6speed box into a classic, or do you think the OEM STI ver 7-8 clutch is enough, considering the newage cars are a bit heavier than the classic ones?
I was planning on upgrading to a Exedy pressure plate, but the budget on this project is killing me...
I have a OEM ver 7-8 pressure plate and disc, do you think it will cope with a modest 400'ish hp setup?
Have you upgraded the clutch when fitting the 6speed box into a classic, or do you think the OEM STI ver 7-8 clutch is enough, considering the newage cars are a bit heavier than the classic ones?
I was planning on upgrading to a Exedy pressure plate, but the budget on this project is killing me...
I have a OEM ver 7-8 pressure plate and disc, do you think it will cope with a modest 400'ish hp setup?
One advice: The Exedy Hyper Single clutch (kit) is NOT compatible with the 6MT gearbox. The lightweight flywheel/clutch cause heavy resonance/rattle when decelerating, range 2000-3000 rpm. BTDT
A bit OT, but I currently have some kinda JDM pressure plate with WRX euro spec disc, and after almost 100.000km it still does not slip!!! I've had +300hp & 400Nm (currently 350hp & 450Nm) for several years, but it still works like a charm!
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