MY99 and MY00 cars go bang from faulty MAF sensor: sign here if this happened to you!
10 December 2003, 06:15 PM
#31
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My failure:-
- 99MY, FSSH, 55k.
- New short engine needed.
Interestingly:-
- MAF was checked by dealer and found to be fine (my first guess!)
- Couple of months later the 02 sensor went dodgy - unstable idle.
My 2 Gripes:-
1) I'm convinced it was a duff batch of Dodgimax, and don't use.
2) Why should you have to buy a Knocklink for peace of mind ?!?
You should be able to rely on the car.
- 99MY, FSSH, 55k.
- New short engine needed.
Interestingly:-
- MAF was checked by dealer and found to be fine (my first guess!)
- Couple of months later the 02 sensor went dodgy - unstable idle.
My 2 Gripes:-
1) I'm convinced it was a duff batch of Dodgimax, and don't use.
2) Why should you have to buy a Knocklink for peace of mind ?!?
You should be able to rely on the car.
10 December 2003, 07:17 PM
#33
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From memory 
: 226800AA301 Meter AY-AIR FLOW is what you *don't* want (that's the whole assembly including tea strainer), you want:
22794AA010 METER CP-AIR FLOW for a UK/Euro spec MY99/00 car.
: 226800AA301 Meter AY-AIR FLOW is what you *don't* want (that's the whole assembly including tea strainer), you want:22794AA010 METER CP-AIR FLOW for a UK/Euro spec MY99/00 car.
10 December 2003, 08:18 PM
#38
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Oh this is just bloody wonderful, just paid over 800 quid for a gearbox rebuild now there's another possible 75 for a MAF sensor just in case! The power upgrades are getting further and futher away, think Ill go and buy a bleeding saxo!
10 December 2003, 09:33 PM
#39
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I looked into this because the MAF on my UK99 went TU. Had I not noticed, due to ECU reset, perhaps mine would have gone bang too. Remember its lean, lean, lean...bang! (interchange 'lean' with 'faster' and that's what I was noticing). The 'learning' nature of the 99/00 ECU's tend to mask the symptoms of a dying MAF quite nicely. Unfortunately.
Anyway, the point I was going to make was that Subaru USA did a recall on these **** MAFs. The new MAF is supposed to be stronger and it is visibly different.
Anyway, the point I was going to make was that Subaru USA did a recall on these **** MAFs. The new MAF is supposed to be stronger and it is visibly different.
10 December 2003, 09:50 PM
#40
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mine blew and melted piston no.4, it was repaired,when i picked it back up i complained of a surging sort of feeling. they checked the car and said it was a a fualty o2 sensor. they then changed that and it still did it (which i told them),two days later it blew again. this time they said it must be the ecu at fault. i do not think it was the ecu, but i do think it was the maf
10 December 2003, 09:56 PM
#41
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Mines a MY00. Gone through 2 MAF sensors since ive had the car (febuary) first went gradually so didnt get a warning light the second went with a good old bang and i ended up in limp home mode.
No engine blow up though, possibly im lucky ??
Been told it keeps on going as im running with a blitz filter meaning more oil and water gets at the sensing element meaning it deteriorates.
No engine blow up though, possibly im lucky ??
Been told it keeps on going as im running with a blitz filter meaning more oil and water gets at the sensing element meaning it deteriorates.
10 December 2003, 10:14 PM
#42
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I've had my my00 from new, I know it's on the original MAF, so I reckon i'll buy one just to be one the safe side, the last thing I need is a blown engine, but thanks to this thread, there's likely to be a shortage at all the dealers!!
Cheers Evil,
Ron.
Cheers Evil,
Ron.
10 December 2003, 11:43 PM
#43
Mine went on my MY00 PPP after 23,000 miles, but I had just fitted the std filter with an ITG Filter and put the failure down to that, so replaced with std filter. Only way I knew it had gone was when I took it in to fix the erratic idle.
11 December 2003, 12:01 PM
#49
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Guys, I'd buy a knock-link before buying a spare MAF sensor! Otherwise how are you going to know if you need to swap over, and how are you going to know if your new one goes to bollox too?
11 December 2003, 01:04 PM
#51
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Thats what I thought!
Surely the AFR will tell you when things are not right the same as a knocklink will.
If the ECU says it is runnin' rich, then surely no det??
Surely the AFR will tell you when things are not right the same as a knocklink will.
If the ECU says it is runnin' rich, then surely no det??
11 December 2003, 05:14 PM
#52
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Fitted an AFR last week, got no readings, so, fitted a new O2 today, now it works very well, blue light an full chat, so thats good, but I'm gonna get a new MAf too, afterall, the cars 3 1/2 years old, and I know it's the original maf, so It can't be a bad idea to get a new one can it!
12 December 2003, 11:44 AM
#53
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Lots of people then 
though some of you were lucky and it didn't go bang! 
I think I'll get the KnockLink as it's very easy to use - green is good, orange is be careful, red is a problem. Easy for a simpleton like me to use
.
Richard
though some of you were lucky and it didn't go bang! I think I'll get the KnockLink as it's very easy to use - green is good, orange is be careful, red is a problem. Easy for a simpleton like me to use
.Richard
12 December 2003, 12:19 PM
#54
RON - worth getting especially since the new ones have been improved over the originals.
A cheeky dealer defo gave me the impression that they'd changed it the first time I complained about erratic idle. After the cars warranty expired I had to go back with the same problem. Thinking that the part would still be covered since it was within a year of it being 'replaced' I was billed for a new sensor and told that it had been cleaned, not replaced the last time. So if you do get one replaced under warranty make sure you get the relevant paper work!
MY00 PPP
A cheeky dealer defo gave me the impression that they'd changed it the first time I complained about erratic idle. After the cars warranty expired I had to go back with the same problem. Thinking that the part would still be covered since it was within a year of it being 'replaced' I was billed for a new sensor and told that it had been cleaned, not replaced the last time. So if you do get one replaced under warranty make sure you get the relevant paper work!
MY00 PPP
12 December 2003, 01:14 PM
#55
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The MAF-sensor on the MY99/00 is crap! With standard air filter and housing (and resonator!) it will last about 50 k miles (max!). With different filters the life will be shortened! I see over 100 MY99/00 cars per year in my workshop for analyzing problems and/or remapping and A LOT of them had bad MAF sensors as they came in!
A Knock Link will definetly "tell" you if there is something wrong and in most cases it will be the MAF sensor in the MY99/00.
One advise I can give: if you notice some hesitation while accelerating through the revs, don´t push the car anymore and have it checked! (it could be something else, but better to be sure) The hesitation is caused by the knock correction of the ECU while retarding the ignition to avoid knock. Above 5500 RPM the knock correction is disabled in those cars and you can wait for your engine to blow.
P.S. I´ve seen 2 weak MAF-sensors in the new age also! Both cars were fitted with aftermarket panel airfilters......
Mark.
A Knock Link will definetly "tell" you if there is something wrong and in most cases it will be the MAF sensor in the MY99/00.
One advise I can give: if you notice some hesitation while accelerating through the revs, don´t push the car anymore and have it checked! (it could be something else, but better to be sure) The hesitation is caused by the knock correction of the ECU while retarding the ignition to avoid knock. Above 5500 RPM the knock correction is disabled in those cars and you can wait for your engine to blow.
P.S. I´ve seen 2 weak MAF-sensors in the new age also! Both cars were fitted with aftermarket panel airfilters......
Mark.
12 December 2003, 01:17 PM
#56
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MY00 UK Turbo - replaced MAF sensor after ~50k miles. No engine blow-up, but was told that the sensor was failing. We discovered this during ECUtek mapping. Replaced without drama. I can only say I'm glad it was caught before something really messy happened!
12 December 2003, 01:32 PM
#58
Can you take your car somewhere to have the MAF sensor checked? I can't be bothered to fit a knocklink, etc.
My car definitely hesitates while accelerating when it's cold but once it's warmed up the hesitation has gone.
Should I be worried or is that normal?
Mark.
[Edited by Wuss - 12/12/2003 1:34:04 PM]
My car definitely hesitates while accelerating when it's cold but once it's warmed up the hesitation has gone.
Should I be worried or is that normal?
Mark.
[Edited by Wuss - 12/12/2003 1:34:04 PM]
12 December 2003, 01:53 PM
#59
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Theo - sometimes you worry me 
But now I know which part to order .
Wuss - I never had that on my car, was always fine when cold - a bit too keen sometimes as I try to be good until it's warmed up!
Ok, so here's the list so far of problems caused by the MAF sensor:
Re-Bitten Hero : MY00 PPP 50,000 miles - Engine blown
PTMW!: MY99 PPP 77,000 miles - Engine blown
drb5: my99 44,500 miles - Engine blown
SiDHeaD: MY00 (?) - caught before engine blew
Scoobygav555: MY00 - failed entirely and had CEL
IN THE STICKS: MY99 36,000 miles - failed completely and replaced (TBC)
CraigH: STiV - failed MAF may have caused engine blowing
scoobymoo: MY99 PPP 36,000 miles - MAF and Lambda sensor replaced due to bad idling
Iwan: MY99 41,000 miles MAF sensor replaced due to bad idling
Soapy Sam: MAF sensor replaced as it was failing
EvilBevel: 4
MAFs failed totally, 2 failed gradually; engine saved by KnockLink
scooby-zeus28: (no MY or miles given) - failed totally with CEL
ScoobyDoo555: failed MAF sensor replaced after engine blowing and bad idle
Flat 4x4: MY99 55,000 miles - MAF unconfirmed, O2 sensor replaced due to bad idle
akshay67: MY99 - MAF failed, identified from bad idle after ECU reset
donutman: probably MAF causing two engine blows
John WRX: 2 MAFs failed (one gradually, one fast)
adge: MY00 PPP 23,000 miles - MAF failed, diagnosed from bad idle
Fat Boy: P1 30,000 miles - MAF failed quickly, CEL
V45DSM: MY99 37,000 miles - engine blown
Fatman: MY00 50,000 miles - MAF failing so replaced before problems
+ 5 cases in Holland of this (from EvilBevel)
All in all, I think there is a definite problem here! It seems it is exarcebated by adding after-market filters (mine has a Unifilter) or induction kits...
I'm thinking of sending this list to Subaru UK and trying to get them to admit to a problem, particularly as they replaced them in the US. Does anyone have a contact name at Subaru for this sort of thing? (And I don't mean Prodrive, so Mike Wood - you are safe)
Richard
But now I know which part to order .Wuss - I never had that on my car, was always fine when cold - a bit too keen sometimes as I try to be good until it's warmed up!
Ok, so here's the list so far of problems caused by the MAF sensor:
Re-Bitten Hero : MY00 PPP 50,000 miles - Engine blown
PTMW!: MY99 PPP 77,000 miles - Engine blown
drb5: my99 44,500 miles - Engine blown
SiDHeaD: MY00 (?) - caught before engine blew
Scoobygav555: MY00 - failed entirely and had CEL
IN THE STICKS: MY99 36,000 miles - failed completely and replaced (TBC)
CraigH: STiV - failed MAF may have caused engine blowing
scoobymoo: MY99 PPP 36,000 miles - MAF and Lambda sensor replaced due to bad idling
Iwan: MY99 41,000 miles MAF sensor replaced due to bad idling
Soapy Sam: MAF sensor replaced as it was failing
EvilBevel: 4
MAFs failed totally, 2 failed gradually; engine saved by KnockLinkscooby-zeus28: (no MY or miles given) - failed totally with CEL
ScoobyDoo555: failed MAF sensor replaced after engine blowing and bad idle
Flat 4x4: MY99 55,000 miles - MAF unconfirmed, O2 sensor replaced due to bad idle
akshay67: MY99 - MAF failed, identified from bad idle after ECU reset
donutman: probably MAF causing two engine blows
John WRX: 2 MAFs failed (one gradually, one fast)
adge: MY00 PPP 23,000 miles - MAF failed, diagnosed from bad idle
Fat Boy: P1 30,000 miles - MAF failed quickly, CEL
V45DSM: MY99 37,000 miles - engine blown
Fatman: MY00 50,000 miles - MAF failing so replaced before problems
+ 5 cases in Holland of this (from EvilBevel)
All in all, I think there is a definite problem here! It seems it is exarcebated by adding after-market filters (mine has a Unifilter) or induction kits...
I'm thinking of sending this list to Subaru UK and trying to get them to admit to a problem, particularly as they replaced them in the US. Does anyone have a contact name at Subaru for this sort of thing? (And I don't mean Prodrive, so Mike Wood - you are safe
)Richard
