FAQS ON OIL CHANGE
11 July 2003, 10:53 PM
#32
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Ragnarock, Most people don't bother with taking the plugs out as it's such a fiddle. The Cam pos sensor is the best way to prevent start up and l guess that the instruction to remove the plugs as being the VERY BEST way to do it sort of overrode the CPS deal, but you're right no need for both.
David API
David API
11 July 2003, 11:30 PM
#33
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mmm slightly lost between that last ragnarock and davidapi post, so you dont have to take the plugs out know????? can some one explain in simpler terms?
davidapi, are you not on holiday yet? or are have you cancelled to give us your wisdom for the time being?
nice one greasemonkey i will print your post off to give to my mechanic.
[Edited by GREEN SCOOBY - 11/07/2003 23:32:23]
davidapi, are you not on holiday yet? or are have you cancelled to give us your wisdom for the time being?
nice one greasemonkey i will print your post off to give to my mechanic.
[Edited by GREEN SCOOBY - 11/07/2003 23:32:23]
12 July 2003, 03:38 PM
#36
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Mike: Shame on you for not reading all the top quality info on page 1 of the thread! 
You'll find a nice easy description of the CPS location in something like the seventh or eighth post.
Either way though, if enough people start asking for it, I might get the camera out and put up some pix to go with the "list"...
You'll find a nice easy description of the CPS location in something like the seventh or eighth post.
Either way though, if enough people start asking for it, I might get the camera out and put up some pix to go with the "list"...
12 July 2003, 07:46 PM
#39
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Mike, I think you're missing the point with the spark plug removal!
When you're talking about disconnecting the coils, you're talking about preventing spark, yes? That's why we suggest you disconnect the crank position sensor. This will prevent both spark and fuel injection.
The reason it's suggested you remove the spark plugs, is to prevent compression, and thus take the load away from the bearings - until oil pressure has been re-established.
When you're talking about disconnecting the coils, you're talking about preventing spark, yes? That's why we suggest you disconnect the crank position sensor. This will prevent both spark and fuel injection.
The reason it's suggested you remove the spark plugs, is to prevent compression, and thus take the load away from the bearings - until oil pressure has been re-established.
12 July 2003, 11:30 PM
#41
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Curious, does disconnecting the CPS not throw up any errors in the ECU in scoobs?
I would recomend this to any type of car by the way, not just Scoobs.
Laters
Spooks
I would recomend this to any type of car by the way, not just Scoobs.
Laters
Spooks
13 July 2003, 09:42 AM
#42
Sorry its a bit of hijack but on my MY97 WRX, I get plugs 3 & 4 much sootier than the other two (esp no. 3). I pull them every 3,500 miles and regap as 1 & 2 have eroded. It does wonders for the idle and gear changes (for whatever reason)and "general feel".
Are people saying that the plugs don't even need pulling out and cleaning at all until about 30,000 miles or that they will last even up to 45,000 but with a bit of TLC?
Nick
1997 Forester S/tb
Are people saying that the plugs don't even need pulling out and cleaning at all until about 30,000 miles or that they will last even up to 45,000 but with a bit of TLC?
Nick
1997 Forester S/tb
13 July 2003, 04:24 PM
#43
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Spooks, disconnecting the crank sensor in this way doesn't create an error event. Seems as though the ECU doesn't cross-check between the crank and cam sensors when starting, it just waits for the crank sensor to report 250rpm before starting spark and fuelling.
Butty - with good quality platinum/iridium tipped plugs, you should be able to leave them for those sorts of distances, yes. What are you using?
Butty - with good quality platinum/iridium tipped plugs, you should be able to leave them for those sorts of distances, yes. What are you using?
23 July 2003, 12:25 PM
#47
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For gear box and diff try Redline shock proof light or heavy weight oil,way to many high powered wrxs use that in OZ my self included.
As for the oil change procedure I have never heard of it here .I do all oil and lots of other bits myself for 4yrs now and for the oil change I go as per all other cars(empty hot oil,replace filter-washer,place sump plug back,fill with no more than 4.5ltr of oil and drive)
That is on my97(fmi,WI,M48pro,high flow 550cc-pump-VF23 at 22psi-3"all the way,forgies,group A cams,solid lifters, etc etc) OZ specs with 160000kms with 390hp around at the fly
Rgrds
As for the oil change procedure I have never heard of it here .I do all oil and lots of other bits myself for 4yrs now and for the oil change I go as per all other cars(empty hot oil,replace filter-washer,place sump plug back,fill with no more than 4.5ltr of oil and drive)
That is on my97(fmi,WI,M48pro,high flow 550cc-pump-VF23 at 22psi-3"all the way,forgies,group A cams,solid lifters, etc etc) OZ specs with 160000kms with 390hp around at the fly
Rgrds
23 July 2003, 01:32 PM
#49
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B*ll*cks, maybe a list would've been a good idea
The rear diff is the easy one, it's almost exactly 800cc.
Gearbox capacity varies fractionally with the age of the car, as the later ones have slightly bigger cases, and the six speeder is a tad bigger again I believe. Figure on between 3.2 and 3.5 litres.
The rear diff is the easy one, it's almost exactly 800cc.
Gearbox capacity varies fractionally with the age of the car, as the later ones have slightly bigger cases, and the six speeder is a tad bigger again I believe. Figure on between 3.2 and 3.5 litres.
24 July 2003, 04:56 PM
#51
Congratulations on a great thread guys!! 
This is what I reckon Scoobynet is all about.....valued advice from people who know what they are talking about.....Well done!
I have made sure I have added this to my favorites section for future reference!
This is what I reckon Scoobynet is all about.....valued advice from people who know what they are talking about.....Well done!
I have made sure I have added this to my favorites section for future reference!
26 July 2003, 11:58 PM
#52
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hmm call me cynical but...
disconnect the crank sensor and turn the engine over ..... until the oilcan goes out...
erm isnt that what happens when you start the car normally ie with the crank sensor connected???
how will disabling the crank sensor fix the problem..
if the engine was new and had never had oil in it then yes, this is a wise move.. but on a previously run engine??
if the abve was true ,, what happens when you stop overnight??
an overnight stop is far longer than an oilchange,, yet i dont disconnect the crank sensor every morning the film of oil left is sufficient to enable a start until oil pressure is reached..
i think waht shoukld happen is empty oil (engine hot..)
carry out your filter priming section.. then leave engine to cool... then start car... this removes the chance of thin oil reaching turbo/ bearing area and causing prob
just my twopennth
Mart
disconnect the crank sensor and turn the engine over ..... until the oilcan goes out...
erm isnt that what happens when you start the car normally ie with the crank sensor connected???
how will disabling the crank sensor fix the problem..
if the engine was new and had never had oil in it then yes, this is a wise move.. but on a previously run engine??
if the abve was true ,, what happens when you stop overnight??
an overnight stop is far longer than an oilchange,, yet i dont disconnect the crank sensor every morning the film of oil left is sufficient to enable a start until oil pressure is reached..
i think waht shoukld happen is empty oil (engine hot..)
carry out your filter priming section.. then leave engine to cool... then start car... this removes the chance of thin oil reaching turbo/ bearing area and causing prob
just my twopennth
Mart
27 July 2003, 01:18 AM
#53
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You don't turn the motor over till the oil light goes out with the crank sensor disconnected, you turn it over for another 20 seconds after the light goes out. Like you said if it was till the light went out there'd be no difference, but the 20 seconds extra is where the difference is.
Cheers,
George.
Cheers,
George.
27 July 2003, 02:49 AM
#54
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This is what THE SUBARU MANUAL STATES(copyright 1996 FUGI HEAVY INDUSTRIES LTD) :
Changing the oil and oil filter
Change the oil and oil filter to the maintenance schedule(in this chapter)
The engine oil and oil filter must be changed more frequently than listed in the maintenance schedule when driving on dusty roads,when short trips are frequently made,when towing or when driving in extremely cold conditions.
1.Warm up the engine by letting the engine idle for about 10 minutes to ease draining the engine oil.
2.Park the vehicle on a level surface and stop the engine.
3.Remove the oil filler cap.
4.Drain out the engine oil by removing the drain plug while the engine is still warm.The used oil should be drained into appropriate container and disposed of properly.
5.Wipe the seating surface of the drain plug with a clean cloth and tighten it securely with a new sealing washer after the oil has completely drained out.
6.Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench.If your vehicle is equipped with under cover ,remove the under cover first and then the oil filter with an oil filter wrench.
7.Before installing a new oil filter,apply a thin coat of engine oil to the seal.
8.Clean the rubber seal seating area of the lower crank case and install the oil filter by hand turning.Be careful not to twist or damage seal.
9.Tighten it apptoximately two thirds of a turn after the seal makes contact of the crank case.
Caution
Never over tighten the oil filter because that can result in an oil leak.
10.Install the under cover (if equipped)
11.Pour the specified amount of engine oil through the filler neck.Turbo models 4.5ltrs
12.Start the engine and make sure that no oil leaks appear around the filters rubber seal.
13.Run the engine until it reaches the normal operating temperature.Then stop the engine and wait a few minutes to allow the oil drain back.Check the oil level again and if necessary,add more engine oil.
Cheers from OZ
Changing the oil and oil filter
Change the oil and oil filter to the maintenance schedule(in this chapter)
The engine oil and oil filter must be changed more frequently than listed in the maintenance schedule when driving on dusty roads,when short trips are frequently made,when towing or when driving in extremely cold conditions.
1.Warm up the engine by letting the engine idle for about 10 minutes to ease draining the engine oil.
2.Park the vehicle on a level surface and stop the engine.
3.Remove the oil filler cap.
4.Drain out the engine oil by removing the drain plug while the engine is still warm.The used oil should be drained into appropriate container and disposed of properly.
5.Wipe the seating surface of the drain plug with a clean cloth and tighten it securely with a new sealing washer after the oil has completely drained out.
6.Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench.If your vehicle is equipped with under cover ,remove the under cover first and then the oil filter with an oil filter wrench.
7.Before installing a new oil filter,apply a thin coat of engine oil to the seal.
8.Clean the rubber seal seating area of the lower crank case and install the oil filter by hand turning.Be careful not to twist or damage seal.
9.Tighten it apptoximately two thirds of a turn after the seal makes contact of the crank case.
Caution
Never over tighten the oil filter because that can result in an oil leak.
10.Install the under cover (if equipped)
11.Pour the specified amount of engine oil through the filler neck.Turbo models 4.5ltrs
12.Start the engine and make sure that no oil leaks appear around the filters rubber seal.
13.Run the engine until it reaches the normal operating temperature.Then stop the engine and wait a few minutes to allow the oil drain back.Check the oil level again and if necessary,add more engine oil.
Cheers from OZ
27 July 2003, 03:25 AM
#55
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Oops ,forgot to include??
With previous post official reply from Subaru(as per manual) ,it was stated:
Deviation from procedure (if proven)in the event of an engine damage or premature wear, will VOID warranty claims.
Cheers
With previous post official reply from Subaru(as per manual) ,it was stated:
Deviation from procedure (if proven)in the event of an engine damage or premature wear, will VOID warranty claims.
Cheers
27 July 2003, 04:53 AM
#56
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Mart:
Not quite. When you start the engine normally, the oil pickup, filter, pump and most of the oilways are already fully primed. That's not the situation that pertains the first time you turn the engine immediately after an oil change. Incidentally, the ECU will allow the engine to fire whether the oilcan is extinguished or not!
It prevents spark and fuelling - allowing you to turn the engine over long enough to be certain of priming the system and establishing oil pressure.
As I said, most of the oil system is still fully primed in that situation.
Rapac:
That text is at least seven years old. There's plenty of anecdotal evidence regarding engine failure shortly after an oil change to suggest that this procedure is not adequate. We also know that many main dealers are following the "extended" version, which says a lot... 
disconnect the crank sensor and turn the engine over ..... until the oilcan goes out...
erm isnt that what happens when you start the car normally ie with the crank sensor connected???
erm isnt that what happens when you start the car normally ie with the crank sensor connected???
how will disabling the crank sensor fix the problem..
if the abve was true ,, what happens when you stop overnight??
Rapac:
This is what THE SUBARU MANUAL STATES(copyright 1996 FUGI HEAVY INDUSTRIES LTD) :
Deviation from procedure (if proven)in the event of an engine damage or premature wear, will VOID warranty claims.
Deviation from procedure (if proven)in the event of an engine damage or premature wear, will VOID warranty claims.
27 July 2003, 07:40 AM
#57
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Like I did it will be nice to see a post of the Subaru official "extended" version of oil change procedure.
As for been a 1996 version I ll try to get hold of a 2003 manual and post procedure.
It is somehow a bit unfair to fellow WRX owners to put so much effort and emphasis(not to say the risk of removing plugs etc) on a such a simple task as "oil change"(which I have done on a number of cars over the last 20yrs) .
Cheers
As for been a 1996 version I ll try to get hold of a 2003 manual and post procedure.
It is somehow a bit unfair to fellow WRX owners to put so much effort and emphasis(not to say the risk of removing plugs etc) on a such a simple task as "oil change"(which I have done on a number of cars over the last 20yrs) .
Cheers
27 July 2003, 04:04 PM
#58
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It's hardly "unfair" to point out to fellow WRX owners a method that may save them a blown engine!
There is no "risk" involved in removing and refitting plugs, it doesn't take that much longer, and there are also other advantages. If the plugs are going to come out, that's an ideal opportunity to examine them, which could give advance warning of other problems.
Even if you don't remove the plugs, disconnecting the crank sensor adds virtually no time to the overall oil change procedure, so either way, there's no good reason not to do some of it.
There is no "risk" involved in removing and refitting plugs, it doesn't take that much longer, and there are also other advantages. If the plugs are going to come out, that's an ideal opportunity to examine them, which could give advance warning of other problems.
Even if you don't remove the plugs, disconnecting the crank sensor adds virtually no time to the overall oil change procedure, so either way, there's no good reason not to do some of it.
28 July 2003, 11:14 AM
#59
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By all means if its to safe an engine.
In all honesty after 3 or so years of driving wrx(full house), been a wrx club member and participant of all wrx web sites,knowing so many Subi owners,service car with Subaru,talk to other mechanics and engine builders, not for once I ve heard that engine has failed or will fail due to deviation of OE oil procedure.
Regards
from OZ
In all honesty after 3 or so years of driving wrx(full house), been a wrx club member and participant of all wrx web sites,knowing so many Subi owners,service car with Subaru,talk to other mechanics and engine builders, not for once I ve heard that engine has failed or will fail due to deviation of OE oil procedure.
Regards
from OZ