STi7/UK Suspension rattle: here we go again
#211
The American thread is very interesting - and very similar to this one. Haven't heard of purging air from the dampers before or the problem with low fluid levels. Mine is booked in for the 26th to have the drop links replaced - so we'll see what happens after that.
One question though - has anyone ever managed a complete cure ?
Scoobsti
One question though - has anyone ever managed a complete cure ?
Scoobsti
#212
Originally Posted by Scoobsti
The American thread is very interesting - and very similar to this one. Haven't heard of purging air from the dampers before or the problem with low fluid levels. Mine is booked in for the 26th to have the drop links replaced - so we'll see what happens after that.
One question though - has anyone ever managed a complete cure ?
Scoobsti
One question though - has anyone ever managed a complete cure ?
Scoobsti
#213
I've thought about trying the damper shaft lube method myself. Is it easy to do ? and what would be the best lube ?
I have considered high quality grease, moly grease, graphite grease, copper slip, slilicone spray etc. Would Slick 50 work ?
On second thoughts - how about re-routing the Intercooler water spray to squirt a light oil onto the damper shafts when they start sticking ? Might be a better use as I don't use it for it's intended purpose anyway.
Scoobsti
I have considered high quality grease, moly grease, graphite grease, copper slip, slilicone spray etc. Would Slick 50 work ?
On second thoughts - how about re-routing the Intercooler water spray to squirt a light oil onto the damper shafts when they start sticking ? Might be a better use as I don't use it for it's intended purpose anyway.
Scoobsti
#214
Originally Posted by Scoobsti
I've thought about trying the damper shaft lube method myself. Is it easy to do ? and what would be the best lube ?
I have considered high quality grease, moly grease, graphite grease, copper slip, slilicone spray etc. Would Slick 50 work ?
On second thoughts - how about re-routing the Intercooler water spray to squirt a light oil onto the damper shafts when they start sticking ? Might be a better use as I don't use it for it's intended purpose anyway.
Scoobsti
I have considered high quality grease, moly grease, graphite grease, copper slip, slilicone spray etc. Would Slick 50 work ?
On second thoughts - how about re-routing the Intercooler water spray to squirt a light oil onto the damper shafts when they start sticking ? Might be a better use as I don't use it for it's intended purpose anyway.
Scoobsti
#215
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dropped my 52plate blobeye off at the main dealers the other day as it was knocking at low speed and after checking it they have ordered me 2 new rear struts. i put mine on a car lift the other day(body lift type) and once back on the deck it stopped for about 10 mile then returned. ill let ya know how my new struts are when they arrive
Andy
Andy
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I have spoken to my dealer about rear near side noise. Since having prodrive springs fitted, clunks on near side rear going over manholes and has an oscillating knocking noise around 40mph especially on gradual left hand bends. Just recently started suffering very bad clunking sound from offside front on slow manouvering speed such as reversing onto drive way. The springs are fantastic, but having owned a supra with standard jap (very stiff) suspension I am really peed off that my new car is not up to the job of handling springs that are needed to handle the power. I am waiting for a bush to come into Holdcroft Subaru for the rear, which I hope will cure that problem, but they haven't heard of the front problem before. Anyone any ideas ????
#217
Strange one this ....
Drove yesterday with all the usual low speed knocks, clonks and slight suspension drops at the rear and came home in a right downpour. Put the car in the garage overnight as usual.
This morning, on my usual route to work - nothing - no rattles, no clonks nothing at all - I was crawling a lot of the way (as usual) and I was listening for the noises.
Going home again tonight - it was back to normal. clonk clonk etc.
The only difference I can see is that the suspension got a good soaking and was left overnight. Could this affect the 'sticking' dampers or could something else be 'sticking' that transmits the sound through the shocks ?
Scoobsti
Drove yesterday with all the usual low speed knocks, clonks and slight suspension drops at the rear and came home in a right downpour. Put the car in the garage overnight as usual.
This morning, on my usual route to work - nothing - no rattles, no clonks nothing at all - I was crawling a lot of the way (as usual) and I was listening for the noises.
Going home again tonight - it was back to normal. clonk clonk etc.
The only difference I can see is that the suspension got a good soaking and was left overnight. Could this affect the 'sticking' dampers or could something else be 'sticking' that transmits the sound through the shocks ?
Scoobsti
#218
Originally Posted by Woody1
I have spoken to my dealer about rear near side noise. Since having prodrive springs fitted, clunks on near side rear going over manholes and has an oscillating knocking noise around 40mph especially on gradual left hand bends. Just recently started suffering very bad clunking sound from offside front on slow manouvering speed such as reversing onto drive way. The springs are fantastic, but having owned a supra with standard jap (very stiff) suspension I am really peed off that my new car is not up to the job of handling springs that are needed to handle the power. I am waiting for a bush to come into Holdcroft Subaru for the rear, which I hope will cure that problem, but they haven't heard of the front problem before. Anyone any ideas ????
#219
Originally Posted by T5NYW
I think you meant Rear Anti-roll bar "Drop links"
What he meant was, don't unduelly worry
If on slow take off particulary when manouvering a) Clunks b) feels like the propshafts/diffs are loose C) or feels like the rear wheels are oval youve got it if not you haven't YET
Tony
What he meant was, don't unduelly worry
If on slow take off particulary when manouvering a) Clunks b) feels like the propshafts/diffs are loose C) or feels like the rear wheels are oval youve got it if not you haven't YET
Tony
Ive had this problem for months and just like you said I have oval wheels and loose prop or driveshaft feelings at low speed take offs! Usually happens when I come to a halt from speed with steady constant braking.
I took the rear shocks off last week and it checked the top strut bolts...
It cured it for about a week ! lol Its back now!
Its due in for a service on saturday so I shall see what they say!
dont want to **** about loosing the car for days on end! It was only a light noidse at first... now its just darn right annoying!
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I never actually had the springs fitted by Holdcroft, just bought them from there. I had them fitted by ABP in Crew and had their fast road geometry setup done. I took it back to ask them to check their workmanship before persuing Subaru assistance. Mine is going in next week for the top mount mod (some kind of bush insert to stop the knock so I have been told) and to have the front noise examined. The back noise is annoying, the front is concerning !
#221
Went to my local dealer this morning and demonstrated how the rear suspension 'sticks' and clunks if you gently lift the rear end by the wheel arch then (gently) press it back down again.
The latest version of rear dampers have now been ordered which come complete with mounts. I will let you know if this cures the clunks when they have been fitted.
Scoobsti.
The latest version of rear dampers have now been ordered which come complete with mounts. I will let you know if this cures the clunks when they have been fitted.
Scoobsti.
#222
Suspension Rattle of Ver. 7/8 STI - This is NORMAL OPERATION of STI struts under light load, slow speed and bumpy road cover, due to their 100% rally origination - dont forget that strust are INVERTED (which are way better than regular ones) and allow some movement of the top part, due to their construction. You can feel that if the car is lifted. .. Just touch the glossy metal tube and see that it can move when car is lifted. Thats why we hear the noise when car is going over bumps slowly. If the speed and load incerase, the strut behaves quitely. - Try to rush through a bad road fast - you will not hear the rattle!
Thats why You can replace the struts one by one, but it WILL repeat due to the NATURE of inverted struts.
Those who dont hear that rattle, did not yet pushed the suspension to its "normal" operation - high speeds/varios road conditions.
Ask any Scooby rally expert/driver, if dont belive that
Thats why You can replace the struts one by one, but it WILL repeat due to the NATURE of inverted struts.
Those who dont hear that rattle, did not yet pushed the suspension to its "normal" operation - high speeds/varios road conditions.
Ask any Scooby rally expert/driver, if dont belive that
#223
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Originally Posted by vadimsti
Suspension Rattle of Ver. 7/8 STI - This is NORMAL OPERATION of STI struts under light load, slow speed and bumpy road cover, due to their 100% rally origination - dont forget that strust are INVERTED (which are way better than regular ones) and allow some movement of the top part, due to their construction. You can feel that if the car is lifted. .. Just touch the glossy metal tube and see that it can move when car is lifted. Thats why we hear the noise when car is going over bumps slowly. If the speed and load incerase, the strut behaves quitely. - Try to rush through a bad road fast - you will not hear the rattle!
Thats why You can replace the struts one by one, but it WILL repeat due to the NATURE of inverted struts.
Thats why You can replace the struts one by one, but it WILL repeat due to the NATURE of inverted struts.
Also as you will understand from your "Rallying" that competitive struts have a short lifespan. Depending on use the "Road" going STi's Struts seem to have a life expendentcy of 5-15kmiles. The worse thing is that the noise and movement only shows it's head at the lighter rear. more worrying is that the heavier front are as likely to be in same condition and most of us don't realise
IIRC IMHO etc. etc.
Tony
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Originally Posted by Sti_Lad
Hi Tony, hope the car is on its way to repair from the capers at Japfest.
!
!
Originally Posted by Sti_Lad
I took the rear shocks off last week and it checked the top strut bolts...
It cured it for about a week ! lol Its back now!
It cured it for about a week ! lol Its back now!
Originally Posted by Sti_Lad
dont want to **** about loosing the car for days on end! It was only a light noise at first... now its just darn right annoying!
reported noise back 4 days later parts ordered 2-3 weeks later fitted 5 hours no noise
Tony
#225
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clunk sound STI
Hi all.
I have a Left Hand driven STI MY03 and live in the Netherlands.
I also have the f##$# noise on my STI.
I looked everywhere to locate the noise without result.
Also the dealer clearly has no idea and started spraying all the rubbers and clamps with silicon lubrication.
Now I thought of checking the internet for other STI owners who have this problem. And I found this (mega)thread...
Can anyone tell me exactly what needs to be done to eliminate this problem?
If replacement is required for some parts, do they need to be modified parts (with other partnumbers or versions)?
I hate to see some parts repaced only to see the issue come up again in time because the replacement parts are exactly the same as the origional parts...
May thanx for your cooperation!
cheers
Barry
I have a Left Hand driven STI MY03 and live in the Netherlands.
I also have the f##$# noise on my STI.
I looked everywhere to locate the noise without result.
Also the dealer clearly has no idea and started spraying all the rubbers and clamps with silicon lubrication.
Now I thought of checking the internet for other STI owners who have this problem. And I found this (mega)thread...
Can anyone tell me exactly what needs to be done to eliminate this problem?
If replacement is required for some parts, do they need to be modified parts (with other partnumbers or versions)?
I hate to see some parts repaced only to see the issue come up again in time because the replacement parts are exactly the same as the origional parts...
May thanx for your cooperation!
cheers
Barry
#226
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Ive just had the rear off side and rear nearside struts replaced under warranty on my 03 sti, the dealer stated that the new parts are different and shouldnt go again. My car is now drifting across the road however , i dont know whether this is a suspension, tracking, or unevenly worn tyre problem however. anyone got any ideas?
#227
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Running quickly through the 12+ odd pages
Others have commented here this has helped, sometimes, but a short/medium term Fix IIRC
But even just Jacking up the car and extending the strut to full extent tends to 'Cure' the problem but only for a short period in time
Can anyone tell me exactly what needs to be done to eliminate this problem?
If replacement is required for some parts, do they need to be modified parts (with other partnumbers or versions)?
I hate to see some parts repaced only to see the issue come up again in time because the replacement parts are exactly the same as the origional parts...
May thanx for your cooperation!
cheers
Barry
Barry,
The MY02STi 'fix' was first to replace the Rear Top Mount, simular spec as the MY03's so this would not be considered an attempted 'Fix' for a MY03.
The is only known fix is to replace the rear Struts The worrying thing is these 'tut failure are only showing up on the Rear of the cars if the front's are of simular design and quality and maybe the "knock/Movement" is not noticeable on the heavier front end .
IMHO IIRC etc
Tony
Originally Posted by barry0164
I have a Left Hand driven STI MY03 and live in the Netherlands.
I also have the f##$# noise on my STI.
I looked everywhere to locate the noise without result.
Also the dealer clearly has no idea and started spraying all the rubbers and clamps with silicon lubrication.
I also have the f##$# noise on my STI.
I looked everywhere to locate the noise without result.
Also the dealer clearly has no idea and started spraying all the rubbers and clamps with silicon lubrication.
But even just Jacking up the car and extending the strut to full extent tends to 'Cure' the problem but only for a short period in time
Originally Posted by barry0164
Can anyone tell me exactly what needs to be done to eliminate this problem?
If replacement is required for some parts, do they need to be modified parts (with other partnumbers or versions)?
I hate to see some parts repaced only to see the issue come up again in time because the replacement parts are exactly the same as the origional parts...
May thanx for your cooperation!
cheers
Barry
The MY02STi 'fix' was first to replace the Rear Top Mount, simular spec as the MY03's so this would not be considered an attempted 'Fix' for a MY03.
The is only known fix is to replace the rear Struts The worrying thing is these 'tut failure are only showing up on the Rear of the cars if the front's are of simular design and quality and maybe the "knock/Movement" is not noticeable on the heavier front end .
IMHO IIRC etc
Tony
#228
I had both my front struts replaced when I found I could grab the top of the wheel and feel movement when I pulled it.
However, the reason for looking for a problem was the poor handling, I now suspect a problem at the rear.
I do get some ocassional clunking from the back, but more worrying, when I pull away, just as the clutch bites, I sometimes feel a jump or clunk as if something gives.
Booking the car in again tomorrow. Not happy
However, the reason for looking for a problem was the poor handling, I now suspect a problem at the rear.
I do get some ocassional clunking from the back, but more worrying, when I pull away, just as the clutch bites, I sometimes feel a jump or clunk as if something gives.
Booking the car in again tomorrow. Not happy
#229
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Originally Posted by Gary C
I had both my front struts replaced when I found I could grab the top of the wheel and feel movement when I pulled it.
Originally Posted by Gary C
I do get some ocassional clunking from the back, but more worrying, when I pull away, just as the clutch bites, I sometimes feel a jump or clunk as if something gives.
Tony
#230
I found I can quieten my clunks atlow speeds by packing a bit of card between the wing and the boot - it is a bit loose and "rattles". There is something odd about the rear suspension too when pulling up - just as I stop the back seems to drop a fraction with an audible clunk. Doesn't seem to stop it going round corners though!
#231
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This clunk at the rear on take-off - I thought it was the viscous diff kicking in to put some power to the rear if the fronts were breaking traction.
I am now worried that it is the suspension.
My car does have the occassional NSR clonk, but it hasn't bothered me until this comment about the clutch take-up.
STi02 PPP with Prodrive springs.
Steve
I am now worried that it is the suspension.
My car does have the occassional NSR clonk, but it hasn't bothered me until this comment about the clutch take-up.
STi02 PPP with Prodrive springs.
Steve
#232
Does sound the same Tony, I too have been worrying about rear diffs, propshafts and suspension bushes. So l popped in to gibsons and they have found that the right rear strut is binding.
You can push down on the rear of the car and the right hand side stays where you put it !
I find the car is fine when pushing it, but the suspension gets so loaded up, a bit of stiction is probably masked. Its the sweeping corners when the car feels unsettled.
One thing, my previous understanding of upside down dampers is from bikes, the fatter bit is at the top and the damper shaft slides up into it.
The STi's are the other way round just like a normal strut, how are they USD dampers then ?, is it the internal design.
You can push down on the rear of the car and the right hand side stays where you put it !
I find the car is fine when pushing it, but the suspension gets so loaded up, a bit of stiction is probably masked. Its the sweeping corners when the car feels unsettled.
One thing, my previous understanding of upside down dampers is from bikes, the fatter bit is at the top and the damper shaft slides up into it.
The STi's are the other way round just like a normal strut, how are they USD dampers then ?, is it the internal design.
Last edited by Gary C; 13 July 2004 at 04:42 PM.
#233
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Originally Posted by Gary C
Does sound the same Tony,
One thing, my previous understanding of upside down dampers is from bikes, the fatter bit is at the top and the damper shaft slides up into it.
The STi's are the other way round just like a normal strut, how are they USD dampers then ?, is it the internal design.
One thing, my previous understanding of upside down dampers is from bikes, the fatter bit is at the top and the damper shaft slides up into it.
The STi's are the other way round just like a normal strut, how are they USD dampers then ?, is it the internal design.
Tony
#234
Is this the answer??
I now have the most stupid grin as have had the most annoying 'kin rattle from n/s rear strut area since I got my STI3 in Mar 2003.
This may be the same revelation for you guys, I hope so!!
I even had a new top mount fitted to try and cure it, as I was convinced it wasn't the strut. (It didn't cure when fitted!!)
It turns out that the top mount is offset and the correct!!! way to fit is as follows:-
If you view the strut as it would be fitted to the car, the top mount has '4wd' stamped next to one of the bolts that fits up into car body.
This bolt with 4wd next to it should face you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You would not believe the angst and grief that has caused me over the last 16 months! I was going to sell, that's how bad, imagine that!!
Found by chance when strut was out, checked up into top of wheel arch to find shiny metal in one place near strut top, and corresponding shiny metal on top mount.
A quick call to Mike at Gatwick Subaru (you dont know how much aggro you have saved me) and he very kindly responded to my, 'is there a particular way to fit a top mount' question, with the above answer, bless you mate.
I sincerely hope this helps all people with this problem, if not I am sorry 'cos I know the hell you are going through!!
It begs the question, how many people/garages/dealers know this info??
This may be the same revelation for you guys, I hope so!!
I even had a new top mount fitted to try and cure it, as I was convinced it wasn't the strut. (It didn't cure when fitted!!)
It turns out that the top mount is offset and the correct!!! way to fit is as follows:-
If you view the strut as it would be fitted to the car, the top mount has '4wd' stamped next to one of the bolts that fits up into car body.
This bolt with 4wd next to it should face you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You would not believe the angst and grief that has caused me over the last 16 months! I was going to sell, that's how bad, imagine that!!
Found by chance when strut was out, checked up into top of wheel arch to find shiny metal in one place near strut top, and corresponding shiny metal on top mount.
A quick call to Mike at Gatwick Subaru (you dont know how much aggro you have saved me) and he very kindly responded to my, 'is there a particular way to fit a top mount' question, with the above answer, bless you mate.
I sincerely hope this helps all people with this problem, if not I am sorry 'cos I know the hell you are going through!!
It begs the question, how many people/garages/dealers know this info??
#235
And now the less emotional response!!
It seems that if the rear strut top mount is not fitted properly, allowing for the correct offset (as described above), the widest part of the assembly where the top of the spring sits, just before the top mount, will be in the wrong position and rub on the inner wing thus giving knocks scrapes rattles etc.
I know that I have a MY97 Sti 3, allbeit with 'standard' STI suspension, but it seems so simple yet so easy to ignore, now i've found it!!
Get it checked just to be sure and if it is a fix then that's great and maybe the robot or joker at the factory needs re-fitting!!
All the best
Glennage
It seems that if the rear strut top mount is not fitted properly, allowing for the correct offset (as described above), the widest part of the assembly where the top of the spring sits, just before the top mount, will be in the wrong position and rub on the inner wing thus giving knocks scrapes rattles etc.
I know that I have a MY97 Sti 3, allbeit with 'standard' STI suspension, but it seems so simple yet so easy to ignore, now i've found it!!
Get it checked just to be sure and if it is a fix then that's great and maybe the robot or joker at the factory needs re-fitting!!
All the best
Glennage
Last edited by Glennage; 14 July 2004 at 12:10 PM. Reason: Doesn't make very good sense!! Doh
#236
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Mine are fitted right, as I fitted Prodrive springs myself and was aware of the offset. So that's not the problem with mine.
Does anyone know if the "clonk" when setting off from a standing start "agressively" could be the viscous coupling locking up to give drive to rear?
Steve
Does anyone know if the "clonk" when setting off from a standing start "agressively" could be the viscous coupling locking up to give drive to rear?
Steve
#237
Sorry to hear that Steve, good luck finding a cure!
How's Newcastle these days?
Am originally from Trentham, now on South Coast near Worthing, haven't been to N for ages (18 yars!!)
Spent most of my time there hanging out at 'Mike Lloyds' record shop, still there?
Regards
Glenn
How's Newcastle these days?
Am originally from Trentham, now on South Coast near Worthing, haven't been to N for ages (18 yars!!)
Spent most of my time there hanging out at 'Mike Lloyds' record shop, still there?
Regards
Glenn
#238
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No, Mike Lloyds closed years ago.
Newcastle has changed from being full of shoe shops and jewellers to being full of pubs and wine bars.
Now has an 8 screen cinema as well, and new shopping street where ***** Yard car park was.
Steve
Newcastle has changed from being full of shoe shops and jewellers to being full of pubs and wine bars.
Now has an 8 screen cinema as well, and new shopping street where ***** Yard car park was.
Steve
#240
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Originally Posted by Steve PPP
Does anyone know if the "clonk" when setting off from a standing start "agressively" could be the viscous coupling locking up to give drive to rear?
Steve
Steve
Originally Posted by Gary C
I
I do get some ocassional clunking from the back, but more worrying, when I pull away, just as the clutch bites, I sometimes feel a jump or clunk as if something gives.
I do get some ocassional clunking from the back, but more worrying, when I pull away, just as the clutch bites, I sometimes feel a jump or clunk as if something gives.
Originally Posted by T5NYW
If on slow take off particulary when manouvering a) Clunks b) feels like the propshafts/diffs are loose C) or feels like the rear wheels are oval youve got it if not you haven't YET
Tony
Tony
Originally Posted by YorkshireSimon
Pretty much the same, come to a slow halt, then car feels like it drops at the rear end by a CM or so.
I have also started to feel something else tho on mine, just in the past few weeks. As I start to move off again from a stand still. I can hear a cluncking noise, sounds like it is also from the rear. Not sure if I have a CV joint or rear diff issue as well.
I have also started to feel something else tho on mine, just in the past few weeks. As I start to move off again from a stand still. I can hear a cluncking noise, sounds like it is also from the rear. Not sure if I have a CV joint or rear diff issue as well.
Originally Posted by marklemac
If you get your car up onto a compression ramp (no wheels hanging) you will then see the shock absorber(s) sticking when you apply load to them.
I saw this with my own eyes. My dealer only has normal ramps so hence everytime I went there for a fix it was ok for a few hours or so.
I saw this with my own eyes. My dealer only has normal ramps so hence everytime I went there for a fix it was ok for a few hours or so.
Originally Posted by marklemac
Had my shock replaced 3-4 weeks ago and is now perfect. NO MORE KNOCKING
Dazza - Yes I could feel the car jolting especially from when coming to a halt. Like the car was slumping on one side.
Anyhow, no problems getting the shock replaced under warranty (shame they would only replace one though and not both)...
Dazza - Yes I could feel the car jolting especially from when coming to a halt. Like the car was slumping on one side.
Anyhow, no problems getting the shock replaced under warranty (shame they would only replace one though and not both)...