Depends how much it's changed by. Less than 10mm I wouldn't bother. But what I'm saying is was it done when it went from stock to coilovers?

Not saying it will cause this, but it might finish off old rubber bushes.

Bushes can look ok on the car and seem ok when pryed. But I know first hand that's not always the case: My Golf seems to like wearing out its front offside lower arm bush (I think the engine heat cooks it). Last time it looked fine until I dropped the subframe for another task and found it was loose in the arm, wouldn't have been long before it threw off the handling.

 

I will have a better idea Monday afternoon as to the condition of all the bushes etc. A geo set up with Peter Cambridge is on the cards in the not so distant future.

 

A mechanic friend of mine has been under the car this morning and couldnt find anything that would cause concern. He took it for a drive and said he thought the coilovers needed setting up. The rear end has too much bounce.

 

So its now bouncy and not pulling all over the road?
What age of car,?
When does it feel bad? On throttle,cambers in road on brakes or all the time on any bump and grate?
What spring rate are on the coilovers?
What tyre pressures,
Did it do it before the tyres?
Have you changes front and rear tyres over to see if the feeling changes at all?

The loose feel if your car is aligned is 99% bushes, crap old rubber as Ali said,
Its why Im asking where it feels bad, it will help us point you in the right direction as to which bushes to change.

Looking at a bush doesn't tell you anything, you need to get in with a bar and see how much they flex.

 

The tyres brand new
fr..34
r…28
he used a lever as much as he could

 

It’s an 05 sti widetrack if there are any bumps in the road the back end will bounce.

 

So its not wandering all over the road,
over bouncy is typically knackered shocks,
what adjustment do the coilovers have?
as the story has changed how long have the coilovers actually been on the car between 2 owners im guessing?

It read like you had fitted new tyres and it had just started to be all over the road from the first page, which is why a number of posts have been about bushes, alignment,
But its actually bouncing now which is a totally different fault or issue imo.

 

I fitted the new tyres the week after I bought the car. The coil overs have done 1500 miles. The backend was bouncing on the way home from buying the car.

 

Being honest 1500 miles could be a year or 10 years, if it's a garage queen then miles is no proof they should be good,
also no answer on what adjustment the coilovers have,
preloadeing the springs won't stop it bouncing so besides that what else can be done to "set up" the coilovers as you mentioned?

 

I don’t know what you are trying to get at.
I have owned this car a couple of months. The fella I bought it off had done approx 7000 miles in 6 years He has the coil overs fitted at Scoobyclinic who I imagine set it all up.It does not handle the backend bounces all over the place. I am trying to find out if this can be improved. If not the coil overs will go in the skip. I am guessing the springs can be altered plus the ride height also.
I am not sure what you are trying get at.

 

So this might have already been mentioned but couldn't see it in the thread. Change your dampning to a softer/softest setting and go from there. Could take a few tries before you find the setting that works for you.

 

Ok so I have to take the rear seats out then turn the adjuster to the left or right??

 

Yes mate, if you don't have the extenders. On the suspension it should say what way is hard/soft.

 

i think i adjusted the wrong part. I plan to take all wheels off put it on axle stands then wind the top collars down till the springs are slack Then start again

 

You haven't even answered how old they are or what adjustments your coilovers have and you still want help, its like the blind leading the blind,
and never assume anything with scabby clinic!
As you obviously don't want any help from me i will stop trying to help,if you ignore questions and just take offence.

 

2 years old
they were on the car when I bought it
​​​​​​ i don’t know the settings
the ride height has been altered but using the wrong method

 

I have now adjusted the ride heights correctly. Also had a geo set up to 2pots specs. Rear suspension was on 11 clicks i have wound it back to 8. Still bouncing plus also squeaking now.

 

The front zero toe is correct, for a starting point.
You still don't have enough front negative camber; and that the you do have, is 23minutes different side-to-side.
You don't have enough rear camber; and the camber that you do have, is 1deg different side-to-side.
The rear toe is also asymmetrical - one side zero, the other toed-in.

As I mentioned over 2 months ago: you're a flogging a dead horse - your springs are too stiff for your roads.

 

I showed the fella the message you sent me and he tapped it into the machine.They were all in the green except for the nsr which I have now sorted and will be going back to him

 

You sent me the print out - green does not indicate optimum or symmetry.
I repeat:
You still don't have enough front negative camber; and that the you do have, is 23minutes different side-to-side.
You don't have enough rear camber; and the camber that you do have, is 1deg different side-to-side.
The rear toe is also asymmetrical - one side zero, the other toed-in.

 

Apologies I thought green was good.

 

So what is he doing wrong?
Do I need to show him the settings you sent me ?

 

like most general guys he is simply adjusting so the compooter says 'yes'............

green simply means that its within the allowable tolerance BUT as Mark points out above that still isn't adjusted 'correctly' or balanced
ask him to actually aim to get the figures at least similar side to side

on the damping side, out of daftness have you tried adjusting them the opposite way and what reaction you get??

 

I will be going out in it later Alyn . I have put it back to zero to start with.
I will go back to the alignment fella tomorrow and see what he says.
Any news on the PFz brake pads Alyn ?

 

As Alyn has written, at least get the same settings side-to-side - not just green/green.

If he sets the front between negative 1 deg 45 mins and negative 2, as requested, it will be red -this is OK.

As per post #13:
Front camber negative1 degree 45minutes - 2 degrees. They will have TWO forms of adjustment:
The camber plate and stock camber bolt.
On the front strut lower mounting bracket, make sure they know they have to slack the lower strut mounting bolt, BEFORE adjusting the upper strut camber bolt! Max out the negative camber on the stock camber bolt first, then adjust the top camber plate.

Rear camber negative 1 degree 15minutes - 1 degree 30minutes (if you haven't got rear camber plates you can push and pry the struts and use the play in the lower bracket bolt holes to equalise the rear camber). Torquing the rear suspension when in full droop, will minimise the rear negative camber, before further equalising adjustment.

Zero front toe

Positive rear toe-in 0 degree 03 minutes, per side (or, positive rear 0.4mm toe in, per side).

 

I am there now,he is having a cup of T

 

 

Is this getting close ?

 

I was hoping someone would give me a yes or a no.

 

More front negative camber please, on the front left.