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anyone offering to do a underseal job in one day isnt doing it properly and thats just a fact ,,, you can't remove enough from the car in one day to allow it get where it need to for it to be protecting the car properly ,, what about behind the petrol tank and under the subframes ??
iv already seen the work from one of the big name companies in the subaru world and there job was awful , didn't remove anything and just masked stuff up ,, underseal had got everywhere on suspension components and underbody parts ,, proper pants job and they are ment to be a subaru specialist so should know better but clearly think you can just smash over the top of everything lol
mine are both JDM cars ,, type R and type RA , both Jdm cars with no underseal and both were still considered to be in good condition so you are wrong with regard to my cars ,,, but I still say if your doing it you might aswell do a proper job instead of sealing in anything that could be problem later on
I enquired at my nearest Dinitrol center last yr for a quote, prices started around the 400 quid mark depending on condition/prep work required, they want the car for a minimum of 3 days, 1 day to remove trim/exhaust/ mask up suspension/brakes etc and clean/treat any areas that need doing, oven overnight to dry, then 2nd day to apply the Bilt Hammer/Dinitrol then back in the oven to dry again, 3rd day refitting things they'd removed/masked up, summit like that anyway, it was a yr ago lol think they also take pictures before/during and after for you to keep.
See this is exactly what I mean by half the job being done. If the brakes/suspension etc are being masked up that means they're still in place so half the underbody is still hidden behind subframes and probably the fuel tank which means it can't be treated properly. I wouldn't pay £50 for that service let alone £400.
so you either pay loads for a good job or do it yourself for a lot less , my last fsti went on for 198k miles and was in the uk from 2008 onwards built in 2004 , it lasted about 12 years over here , the worse rust was the drivers side rear sill then jacking points , the other bits of rust was the rear roof rails and the drivers side a pillar it was not through the body but was bubbling , so those areas you would not seal any way , the other areas sills etc are all bits you can do yourself , i did not under seal the transmission tunnel but did as much as i could reach every where else , i did not know the state of the rear arches i expect they were a problem as they often are ,the sill could have been repaired at a cost but not worth it on that mileage , an average car lasts 14 to 16 years before it’s scrapped obviously are cars are not average 👍
I think Adam was referring to fresh imports, Steve, not yours.
Yes, that's exactly what I meant Hedge. Domino's RA was imported in 2003 by the looks of it, so has been driven in the UK for the last 18 years! Not exactly a fresh import like the OP is referring to.
Yes, that's exactly what I meant Hedge. Domino's RA was imported in 2003 by the looks of it, so has been driven in the UK for the last 18 years! Not exactly a fresh import like the OP is referring to.
Is the OP definitely looking at a fresh import? I've maybe missed it but I can only see them mention JDM. Maybe OP could clarify.
I'm currently doing mine myself in the garage - no way would I pay 2500 to rust proof something run-of-the-mill. Maybe if you're doing an all out restoration project on a Type-R or 22b etc, then fine, but a boggo STI or WRX - come on now...
I'm using lanoguard myself, and I intend to top it up every year (I do very very little mileage in the Subaru). Reasons for picking lanoguard were that it is really low viscosity, so you can use a wand to actually get it into the sills and above the tank etc if you want. If my car was a rust-bucket already, then I might feel different, but I think the lanoguard (or dinitrol as per other posters above) will give better protection than doing nothing at all, especially in the areas we all know rust (sills and rear arches, and maybe the front cross members), and it will do so whilst either not breaking the bank, or taking several months to complete if doing it yourself (and working on a normal hobbyist timeline...).
Is the OP definitely looking at a fresh import? I've maybe missed it but I can only see them mention JDM. Maybe OP could clarify.
Good point @RockyRoad ! I had made the assumption they were referring to a fresh import as I was thinking this would be why it needed underseal. That said, I've seen fresh imports with rust underneath, it just depends where about in Japan it's been used. My suggestion of doing it themselves is based on the car being a clean car underneath already, which is based on my own experience.
I'm currently doing mine myself in the garage - no way would I pay 2500 to rust proof something run-of-the-mill. Maybe if you're doing an all out restoration project on a Type-R or 22b etc, then fine, but a boggo STI or WRX - come on now...
I'm using lanoguard myself, and I intend to top it up every year (I do very very little mileage in the Subaru). Reasons for picking lanoguard were that it is really low viscosity, so you can use a wand to actually get it into the sills and above the tank etc if you want. If my car was a rust-bucket already, then I might feel different, but I think the lanoguard (or dinitrol as per other posters above) will give better protection than doing nothing at all, especially in the areas we all know rust (sills and rear arches, and maybe the front cross members), and it will do so whilst either not breaking the bank, or taking several months to complete if doing it yourself (and working on a normal hobbyist timeline...).
Lanogaurd is very similar to the dynax I used, just a less viscos. Bilt Hamber also provide a 'straw' so you can get it in to all the hard to reach places. I think it's a great solution for cars like ours that don't see much mileage or hellish weather. If I lived in Scotland and drove it year round then I'd probably go for something more heavy duty.
Like Adam said it depends how often it's used and what part of the country you live in really regarding the amount care you take of the bits we can't see, mine personally don't go out in wet weather or during the winter, bit of a garage queen, only gets used between April/May thru till October/November and thats depending on the weather
Good point @RockyRoad ! I had made the assumption they were referring to a fresh import as I was thinking this would be why it needed underseal. That said, I've seen fresh imports with rust underneath, it just depends where about in Japan it's been used. My suggestion of doing it themselves is based on the car being a clean car underneath already, which is based on my own experience.
Me and you were thinking the same thing then. Hence why I said check usual places for rust and if nothing you're good to go. On the other side of things this is the liveliest its been on the forums in a long while. Subarus rust different thats all I'm saying.
See this is exactly what I mean by half the job being done. If the brakes/suspension etc are being masked up that means they're still in place so half the underbody is still hidden behind subframes and probably the fuel tank which means it can't be treated properly. I wouldn't pay £50 for that service let alone £400.
exactly this ,, regardless of how new the car is ,, if you want it to last and want to do a decent job of protecting where it really needs it then all the underside components need to be removed so where they meet the body can be protected ,,, as we all know the places where these cars rust isnt in the open where it can be easy to see ,, its always hidden behind parts and in corners so just dusting over where you can see doesnt do much and you might aswell just clean it properly after use with a jet wash as this will do the same amount of protection
So as we are looking at rust protection, a little thread hijack..
this is where my cage feet have been welded years and years ago. I’ve wire brushed by hand and drill, and used hammerite rust remover (not that there was much/any (the brown bits are some kind of red paint).
the only slight brown area is in the seam at the top where I think the seam sealer got burnt from welding.
im not sure what to do now, though.
I think I need to get some rust killer on there (bilt hamber hydrate80), but what do I do after that? Some kind of paint, and then cover with some bilt hamber clear under seal, or do the wheel arches need anything different?
the oem stuff seems to be some kind of bitumen coating and it’s held up well over the last 18 years, so maybe more of that?
or do I go off the rails and remove all of the black stuff and start afresh? Sounds like overkill, maybe?
👍👍 I thought it was a good looking car that but yeah money all day
it paid for 2 more Subaru's lol ,, brought a bugeye sti for £7k (but most say you won't get one that cheap lol) and a hawk but iv now sold the hawk aswell lol
it paid for 2 more Subaru's lol ,, brought a bugeye sti for £7k (but most say you won't get one that cheap lol) and a hawk but iv now sold the hawk aswell lol
back to the dreamcar giveaways or whatever lol....I’m not a gambling man in the slightest but you have convinced me to have a go and try my luck 👍🤞
back to the dreamcar giveaways or whatever lol....I’m not a gambling man in the slightest but you have convinced me to have a go and try my luck 👍🤞
]
neither am I normally , dont do casinos or even do the lottery regular , but when a car is on offer I find it hard not to buy one or two lol
one of my friends has won a R34 GTR from dream car giveaways ,, and I won the evo from 7 days performance ,, so there is at least 2 companies that I know 100% someone has won from them so why not ,, I still enter every now and again as im hoping for another win , I want a super car this time though lol
iv actully had 2 wins from the same company now ,,, I also won a Dyson bundle (hair dryer , curlers , straighteners ) ,, but I only entered due to the decent odds so I took the £1000 cash instead of the products as they normally offer you a cash alternative anyway lol
Last edited by domino46; 17 December 2021 at 06:49 AM.
neither am I normally , dont do casinos or even do the lottery regular , but when a car is on offer I find it hard not to buy one or two lol
one of my friends has won a R34 GTR from dream car giveaways ,, and I won the evo from 7 days performance ,, so there is at least 2 companies that I know 100% someone has won from them so why not ,, I still enter every now and again as im hoping for another win , I want a super car this time though lol
iv actully had 2 wins from the same company now ,,, I also won a Dyson bundle (hair dryer , curlers , straighteners ) ,, but I only entered due to the decent odds so I took the £1000 cash instead of the products as they normally offer you a cash alternative anyway lol
👍👍
definitely worth a bullseye, going to have a peep 👀
So as we are looking at rust protection, a little thread hijack..
this is where my cage feet have been welded years and years ago. I’ve wire brushed by hand and drill, and used hammerite rust remover (not that there was much/any (the brown bits are some kind of red paint).
the only slight brown area is in the seam at the top where I think the seam sealer got burnt from welding.
im not sure what to do now, though.
I think I need to get some rust killer on there (bilt hamber hydrate80), but what do I do after that? Some kind of paint, and then cover with some bilt hamber clear under seal, or do the wheel arches need anything different?
the oem stuff seems to be some kind of bitumen coating and it’s held up well over the last 18 years, so maybe more of that?
or do I go off the rails and remove all of the black stuff and start afresh? Sounds like overkill, maybe?
When I did my Type R if I remember correctly it was stonechip and then paint on top. Still haven't done any underseal on it but car isn't on the road yet.
15 December 2021, 09:07 AM
