I'm guessing you don't realise how heavily specced my car is then lol.

Its been built by scoobyclinic as a 500bhp daily, so speced for 550+ to maintain reliability

 

In fact the blob UK 2.0 was the last factory forged subsru engine, the bug jdm was the last jdm.

I agree with you on the 2.5 being a big improvement over the 2.0 twinscroll in terms of a road engine (ignoring the 2.5 reliability issues)

 

I am aware mate, and a very nice spec it is too. Like I said, only my personal preference as the cost to do so is relatively low when you factor in the cost of a forged engine including removal, installation, mapping etc.

 

So what im seeing as the upshot from all this is..... closed deck it and get some of your money back when you sell (but you wont as its sooo good) or put in the parts that no body wants and get **** all back and always be worried about the engine and never enjoying the car ?

 

Alan still works at engine tuner

 

Does closed decking the block prevent the liners cracking?

 

Yes because it prevents movement of the cylinders within the block but doesnt stop the balooning of the bores as they are thin on the 2.5 as i understand it.

 

Correct, the walls are extremely thin in places which brings us on to the topic of whether you should re-bore a 2.5 or buy new block halves, and down the rabbit hole we go. In essence, if you want a reliable sub 400bhp car then a semi closed deck block, pistons, ARP studs and a rebore with new ancillaries (oil pump, gaskets etc) can get you there on a budget. Adding a closed deck insert and rods will give you greater security. 14mm head studs will give you further security. New block halves would be a good move if you are looking for big power and ultimate strength from a 2.5 without going down the uprated liner route. At the end of the day, it’s as much about your spend limit as it is your hp goals.

 

will depend on how damaged they are wehn inspected, sometimes they can be too far gone even for that.

 

Absolutely mate, very easy for a broken ringland to chew into them and leave a case half as scrap. Or them being too far out of round.

 

when the piston comes out looking like a kidney bean cos its been mashed that hard your very lucky if the block survives hahahaha

 

so when people mention these darton liners, what are they meant to do? I’ve had 2 spec d’s and I love the drive of a 2.5 on normal roads because of the power delivery etc...I’d love another 2.5 down the line but only fully forged now. When I had my spec d’s I didn’t have a clue

 

 

i have these and they do make a little difference i think in terms of spool

 

Aftermarket cylinder sleeves give you the option to add extra meat to cylinder walls to add strength and stiffness, the trade off is that you will lose some capacity. For instance a 2.5 would be sleeved down to a 2.35, but the cylinder walls will be much thicker than the original 2.5. This is only really required for very high horsepower builds. Many people will talk about sleeves dropping but this often comes down to poor tolerances on the initial machining work.

 

Can't wait for this bill 😭

 

😂😂 it will bring you years of smiles mate

 

And Martyn. And the same mechanics. It's a bit of a jump to compare them to a firm where the new owner stole parts and cars from customers.
Also Enginetuner is owned now by more than one person, so this scenario is highly unlikely.

 

Just be clear i never compared enginetuner to API. That was someone else. 👍

 

Absolutely.

 

Underlined this. Though have a good listen to Ben these days as Alan is taking it easier (some of the time anyway)

On any rebuild , Id be changing the oil cooler verbatim as a fair deal of unwanted fine debris can unfortunately end up in these ( an earlier post looked at the condition of the Modine's pipe too )
I once thought about keeping mine until I started to look at the magnetic rust debris that Id just washed out it and that had ended up in the washing up bowl together with the petrol.
Always ensure the sump is spotlessly clean. There is nothing like that magnetic metallic silver paste in the sump to ruin your bearings in short order.

 

I went to a forged Mahle piston and Manley Rod spec EJ207 on my 2.0 WRX exactly because I wanted some "headroom and security" and that was "only" for a 5spd max target of 350bhp ,
I'm not a great fan of the 2.5 in its original form because of its fragile nature but a properly rebuilt one using forged components and some 11mm ARP studs /ACL bearings is surely good enough for the OP's modest aims.
From another post Id agree checking the flow of the injectors before re-fitting would be a good idea, as the root cause to the original failure remains unknown, If rebuilt on a tight budget a new fuel pump could possibly wait
and Martyn can also build in some security at time of mapping, the build doesn't need to break records.

 

Would K1 rods be better rated than Manley H Tuff's? Someones offered me the latter, brand new of course.

 

K1's are reasonable but not in the Turbo Tuff arena IMO...........obviously costs / value for money will have a bearing

 

Thanks for the advice and sorting the mounts out earlier Alyn👌

H-Tuffs will now be used as opposed to the K1's

 

So update;

Engine's been stripped, basically every known problem they are known for my engine had

Bearing 3 had gone causing the rod knock I experienced
Head gasket had failed
Piston 3 showing signs of ringland

Rebuild spec will be;

Closed deck
ARP 11mm head studs
Nitride Crank
ACL bearings
Manley H Tuff con rods
Wossner pistons
RCM 11mm oil pump
RCM head gaskets
Fuji racing baffle plate

New clutch - undecided on stock or uprated



Also got the Whiteline steering rack bush kit and Hardrace engine and transmission mounts to go on

 

Well done

 

It's going to be bullet proof

 

That should be good, you will probably be wanting to add a bigger turbo down the line then.

So with that in mind, i recommend the competition clutch stage 2. Very good manners and holds 500hp.

 

Does one need a Robocop leg to operate it and is it like an ON/OFF switch?