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Go to the gym, honestly. Work back and shoulders but remember everyday is trap day
When on the track and the G forces are pushing against you the extra muscle mass does work. I also use the bucket seats as a guide, the tighter they feel the more weight I've put on
Go to the gym, honestly. Work back and shoulders but remember everyday is trap day
When on the track and the G forces are pushing against you the extra muscle mass does work. I also use the bucket seats as a guide, the tighter they feel the more weight I've put on
ha ha ha! I know what you mean about the weight! I’m sure glad I haven’t had any this year. I’ve always tried to keep myself in shape but this year has been a struggle. 🥴
Which Syvecs ECU did you install Adam? The PCB replacement that’s a straight swap for the stock board or a standalone ECU unit with its own harness loom)?
Do you mind sharing a comparison with the stock ECU &what your thoughts are on it? (What it does better, the sensors you used & features it now has?
Trying to do my homework on aftermarket ECU’s, but struggling to find a comparison compared to stock from someone who’s had both.
@Kaosone It's an S6 pnp, just swapped out the stock board. We needed to modify the exiting housing though, I'll try to find a picture.
The plan was always to add some additional sensors but with 2020 going the way it did, it kind of got put on the back burner. I also did a massive extension to the house and bought the spec c, so have had to make some sacrifices.
I certainly don't use much of the functionality, I only have one map, but Bob did set up some of the little features that run in the background. I also have LC & ALS available at the touch of a button on the toucan unit but don't use them (I'm saving that for when I finally get the car over to Santa Pod!).
Some of the background features I have noticed include; a safety/limp mode until the car is up to temp, automatic intercooler spray when it needs it and an advanced knock protection system (cuts power and goes to limp mode if detected). I know there is loads more you can do with it but I haven't had the time to fully investigate tbh. There's a guy called Martin Battye who's supposed to be an absolute wiz with the syvecs, he is well known on the drifting scene I believe. If I decide to keep the car longer term, I may well speak with him and what he advises with regards to sensors and setup.
The toucan controller is also a nice piece of kit, again though I haven't had time to really examine all the functionality (I haven't even looked at the manual yet ). When I did a track day last year I was able to call up the logs to check for knock, etc. I did plan on downloading the syvecs software to my laptop for checking the logs but it doesn't run on my linux OS. I will probably buy a small cheap windows one off of ebay at some point as there is an ethernet cable to plug it straight in.
My honest opinion is that most people won't be able to tell any real difference when driving the car. The syvecs is fairly pricey but is considered one of the best in the motorsport world, for a road or occasional track car though it is probably overkill. I know a couple of people running the link G4+ and they seem very happy with it and there are plenty of mappers that recommend those (it's half the price of a syvecs). If I was buying one now, I'd probably go with that for my usage.
Sounds like the logical way yo go about it would be to push the stock ECU & if it can’t cope then an upgrade would be the best option
Yep, that would be my opinion. This car was previously running 420bhp on the standard ecu, map sensor and 2 port boost solenoid and it was fantastic to drive. The stock ecu is apparently quite good, so I'm told...
The car was in for a service just before Xmas and they noticed the headers had a crack. Rather than fanny about getting them welded, I decided to just replace them. I'll probably get the old ones welded up and sell them or maybe keep as spares.
The headers are RCM unequals and have only covered around 7k miles so I'm a bit disappointed with the quality tbh. That said, there are not many other options and I don't want to have to get it mapped again so am changing like for like at this time.
RCM have been out of stock so I've got the Fuji ones instead, these GT headers are obviously all the same though. They'll be fitted next week, let's see how long these ones last!
So today I received that news that we all dread...
The car went in to have the headers replaced as well as a few other small jobs, one of which was to replace the sump gasket which was weeping.
Sump off and a look inside revealed bronze flecks in the oil pan. After getting several opinions on the 'noisy' engine before Xmas and a leak down test, the engine was given a clean bill of health.
Now it appears that the bearings are letting go!
To say I'm gutted would be an understatement. I actually had money put aside for a rebuild but after the investigations turned up nothing, it ended up getting spent elsewhere.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do now. I can't really justify spending £5k getting it rebuilt when I've just bought the Spec C, so it looks like I may end up breaking it, if I can find the time.
That’s tough mate, does knackered bearings mean full engine rebuild? No chance of a “best case scenario” if you get me...
It hasn't let go yet so shouldn't have damaged other components but will still need a full strip down to replace the bearings. Best case is that the only parts that need replacing are the bearings but I'm still looking at at around £3k of labour.
Not yet at least, disconnect the battery throw a cover over it & think about it again when the weather warms up.
No rush, unless you're hurting for cash (although I suppose putting the feelers out won't hurt).
It's tough mate, I don't really want to sell but I don't want to leave it to rot either. I'm not desperate for the cash but also don't want to feel the pain of seeing it sat on my driveway every time I look out of the window.
It's painful at the moment. I'll be bringing it home tomorrow and will throw the cover over it and see how I feel in a couple of weeks I guess....
I thought your engine failry new and low miles? I would be asking the builder why its failed so soon
The bottom end was second hand, I was always taking a chance with it but the guy I bought it from was adamant that it was fresh and had no more than 3k road miles on it. He seemed like a genuine guy but he was always difficult to get hold of and disappeared shortly after I handed over the money.
Here is the original post: https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...p1-type-r.html The guys name is James Wilde and he lives in Peacehaven.
I had the engine, headers, syvecs and MD321T off of him. Price seemed reasonable at the time but the engine was already removed from the car so couldn't hear it running. The headers were trash and I sold them as a project for £50. I ended up buying a new turbo so sold the MD to a guy I know. He sent it off to have it checked before fitting and one of the impeller blades had a huge chunk missing on the inside. You couldn't notice it from the outside though, it ended up needing a new core. Once the engine was fitted it was really slappy, we've done a leak down test and I've had several experienced people check it out and all seemed well but those things don't show the condition of the bearings. So it seems the only thing worth anything from the purchase was the ECU in the end (fingers tightly crossed that doesn't fail now too!).
I would love to pull the engine now and complete a tear down and rebuild from scratch myself. I have access to a crane, engine stand and workshop but don't really have the specialist tools or know how to do it myself though.
I've never really been into the 'modifying' scene and it's been a learning experience that's for sure! Now I've done it, I think I'll be sticking to the OEM+ theme in the future....
I collected the car today and brought it home. Will be chucking a cover over it for the time being.
The garage showed me the oil and it is very subtle. He said it is likely just the start of it as he can't detect any knocking yet and the oil was clear in December.
On the positive side, I guess this is a good thing as there shouldn't be any damage to the other components.
I need to take a little break from the car for now and decide what I want to do. At least I have the spec c to keep me entertained!
Thanks to all the people text/messaged me, appreciate the support.
The bottom end was second hand, I was always taking a chance with it but the guy I bought it from was adamant that it was fresh and had no more than 3k road miles on it. He seemed like a genuine guy but he was always difficult to get hold of and disappeared shortly after I handed over the money.
Here is the original post: https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-par...p1-type-r.html The guys name is James Wilde and he lives in Peacehaven.
I had the engine, headers, syvecs and MD321T off of him. Price seemed reasonable at the time but the engine was already removed from the car so couldn't hear it running. The headers were trash and I sold them as a project for £50. I ended up buying a new turbo so sold the MD to a guy I know. He sent it off to have it checked before fitting and one of the impeller blades had a huge chunk missing on the inside. You couldn't notice it from the outside though, it ended up needing a new core. Once the engine was fitted it was really slappy, we've done a leak down test and I've had several experienced people check it out and all seemed well but those things don't show the condition of the bearings. So it seems the only thing worth anything from the purchase was the ECU in the end (fingers tightly crossed that doesn't fail now too!).
I would love to pull the engine now and complete a tear down and rebuild from scratch myself. I have access to a crane, engine stand and workshop but don't really have the specialist tools or know how to do it myself though.
I've never really been into the 'modifying' scene and it's been a learning experience that's for sure! Now I've done it, I think I'll be sticking to the OEM+ theme in the future....
Sounds like a safe engine purchase.
The Subaru engine is pretty straight forward to rebuild, you don't really need any specialist tools, only thing you would need over any other engine is the tool for the gudgeon pin extraction, which is nothing special really.
Get yourself a copy of the workshop manual and have a read.
The Subaru engine is pretty straight forward to rebuild, you don't really need any specialist tools, only thing you would need over any other engine is the tool for the gudgeon pin extraction, which is nothing special really.
Get yourself a copy of the workshop manual and have a read.
Definitely lesson learned. 😑
I wish I had the confidence to pull the engine out and have a fettle but the most I’ve ever done myself is change a few bolt on parts. I can imagine it would take a good few hours to do it too and with a new baby and half built house, time is at a premium. I will get it fixed (probably), but it will need to wait a while now.
). When I did a track day last year I was able to call up the logs to check for knock, etc. I did plan on downloading the syvecs software to my laptop for checking the logs but it doesn't run on my linux OS. I will probably buy a small cheap windows one off of ebay at some point as there is an ethernet cable to plug it straight in. 
