Excellent work...... hopefully this will be another one saved.......

Subcribed

Siv.

 

Are they an endangered species then?


Right! Still alive, although it was touch & go for a minute

I was planning on painting this crappy grey plastic trim piece black, but it doesn't appear to be removable? (Back to black sorts it out though)...




Anyway, on with the show (those rusty headlight bolts)...









Tapped back to M6...




Prepped...




& even more hammerite

 

In preparation for these




Clean bolts in all the headlight threads...








Battery tie down hammerited & fitted with stainless nuts...




And a load more stainless here, there & everywhere...




Which to be honest, just highlights how dull everything looks & how it could do with a lot of tidying up

 

New toys, intecooler gaskets, bumper mounts & o-rings for the dipstick tube....




Back in...




And secured with a new stainless bolt of course




I am assuming this oil residue is fed into the air intake via the PCV system (crankcase vapor)...




... And is spat out of here before actually making the throttle-body?




... Makes sense as there's not much reside on the entrance to it...




Yet loads on the intercooler intake pipe (I should really learn the proper names for these things).






An Air Oil Separator just moved higher up the list of priorities

 

So that's it all back together, fresh oil & filter & believe it or not pretty similar to how it was before , possibly the only noticeable difference is the painted windscreen wipers...




Oh well, its been a bonding experience . Thinking out loud here, but I have one hang up with this car, don't get me wrong it's great & I can't think of anything else (I could afford) that I'd rather be driving...

But there are so many mods I want to do to it


Monster service at 100,000 miles:

• Compression test - For peace of mind (or not )
• Engine oil & filter
• Cam & auxiliary belts & idlers
• Spark plugs
• Air filter
• Fuel filter
• Front & rear diff oil
• Gear box oil
• Oil pump
• Water pump
• Coolant flush
• Power Steering fluid
• Clutch fluid
• Braided brake hoses & caliper clean

Basically anything serviceable, it only hits 100K once & with it being a nice round number overhauling it seems logical - Can anyone spot anything I missed of that list? Valve clearances maybe?


Then when that's done chuck a few grand at it to fine tune it all


Chassis Parts Shopping list:

• Eibach Lowering Springs (gone off the coilovers as of the cost)
• WhiteLine Front Strut Brace (to be powder coated black)
• WhiteLine Front & Rear Anti Roll Bars & Drop Links
• WhiteLine Heavy Duty Rear ARB Mounts
• Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit
• Whiteline Heavy Duty Steering Rack Mounts
• Super-Pro Gear Linkage Bush

Engine Shizzle:

• IAG Air Oil separator (AOS)
• Moroso uprated oil pickup
• Dyno run (to see where it's at)
• Less restrictive back box - Genome would be nice or maybe Hayward & Scott angled 2.5" back box (I'll keep the ProDrive 2.5" resonated centre section)
• TGV Delete (one way or the other)
• Inlet manifold either power coated or ceramic coated black
• Custom remap (& new dyno chart for before & after comparison)

Bits & Pieces:

• Front lip splitter
• Perrin wing stabilisers x2
• Rear diffuser
• Rear & side window tints & top tint
• Tegiwa brake stopper - Blue? WTF? + Powdercoating
• Scoobyworld Black STI floor mats

Some decent tyres are on the list but I am classing those as consumables, not modifications

I am not keen on any form of induction kit / mod, too expensive for either equal or less performance than stock, I don't care for the noise & I want to keep it looking original(ish) under the bonnet.
A Grimspeed top mount intercooler (black obviously) & their y-piece & splitter would be nice as well as a turbo blanket to prevent heat soak (doesn't seem cost effective in relation to how much power it would gain though) - Unless I am wrong here .


Can anyone point me in the direction of anything else I should be looking at for basic engine tuning before getting it all setup & mapped?


Cheers,
Stuart

 

Thanks


Drop it off the list or drop it down behind the front bumper?


Hmmmm, people rave about it but that saves £180 (I'll look up what the centre roll kit is).


That's the plan & evaluate as I go...


I don't know about the pick up point but it has a Warlbro 255 in it as part of the PPP.


Is that the top engine mount under the intercooler? What are the benefits?


Link to info please

 

Slowly warming towards the idea of a FMIC provided it's:

A) Black
B) The core takes up the whole recess in the bumper, for a clean uniformed look.

So much for stock looking, but in the grand scheme of things it seems a lot more straight forward than trying to preventing heat soak on the TMIC position.

I am I correct in assuming I can't run the standard air intake with a FMIC as the piping runs through its position into the wing?

Cheers

 

Cleaned it




Sorted out one other thing that's been bothering me. The number-plates that came on it had this suspect 3D look carbon lettering, back to standard, back to subtle

 

Boring but whatever, The plan was always detail the paint, correct it & wax it from the day I got the car but that never happened. Now it's cooler out & I've had it the kit on the boot since the week I got it game on

My wings weren't smooth to touch (probably over-spray from under the bonnet) so I had a brainwave. Two rounds of rubbing compound...




Then a round of polish...






And another..




And several more, probably 5-6 across the wings & bonnet & one on the front bumper so far...




Closely followed by doing a pass on the rest of the car...

 

New wiper blades because awesome & a lambswool buffing pad...




So a second round of polish on the rest of the car, then final buff on the lambswool pad, clean the engine bay, jet wash it to get the polish out of the gaps, wash then, shampoo, then dry & finally wax it.

Rock & roll, I know

 

I've run out of polish so that's the polishing done, just need to wash it heavily to get the polish out the gaps & then wax it...






Also been splashing the cash again, LED interior lights



Stock bulb on the left...




Bright as funk




There was enough left in the budget for a new cabin filter too ...




Dunno why I bothered this one's mint

 

The poor mans mods continue, blue T5 LEDs...




Time to lose the dim green light, starting with the ignition ring...

 

Next up the clocks, swapping out the bulbs for blue LED's (we'll trying anyway)...




All lit up but with a stock bulb on the left of the rev counter...




And finally all lit up except the rev counter needle & STI logo which I didn't notice until later









But these are still green, as is the clock

 

In other news I've decided I don't need retro silver in my life anymore...






Although not original I am giving into the fact mods are required & this car won't stay standard & original as I originally intended...






Crap picture but now with added stealth, just needs an all black widetrack or hawkeye steering wheel next

 

What bulbs did you use for the ceiling lights?

 

These...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-6-SMD...72.m2749.l2649

You'll need 3 in total, 1 for the main interior light & 1 each for the passenger & driver lights (or stick with the two & don't bother doing the passenger one).

 

In case you're not bored enough here's another update, stock HVAC bulb with a green condom on it on the left & a T3 blue LED that won't fit on the right ....




Bare back




Blue film I bought for the clock applied...




Really

 

I sourced an EVO clock from RaggyBob on here, which had previously been JDM'd......




Converted it to blue...




Looks like a mint green, obviously I am on a roll (darker blue film on order)...

 

Whilst trying to clean all the splatters of polish out of the groves so I can finally do the waxing I've been aiming to do for the last 6 months, I decided these bother me....




As does something about the bumper...




So in the spirit of stealth....

 

By this point no prisoners are being taken...




Bake @ Gas Mark 6 like a boss




New genuine Subaru bumper hardware...




There... No one will ever notice but at least I won't have to back to black that **** grey plastic anymore











Never again will I wash my car & then have this grey faded section against my black flip paint...




You know you want to

 

Looking good.

 

Thanks I try...

The baffle is loose in my back box & I feel I've done an excellent job of resisting buying a Hayward & Scott angles Jap' backbox & not resonated centre section in preparation for getting a remap as it's a slippery slope...

The internal conflict of originally buying a clean original STI to keep stock & now wanting to mod the hell out of it, combined with the cost involved & no return on investment (as in resale value) is still eating my up inside

I am trying to put that off until it hits 100,000 miles & gets treated to a huge service so I know it's all tip-top before I cross over to the darkside.


However on a plus note I added some fan boy floor mats as the ones that came with the car had seen better days, these are a much nicer fit & despite the securing hook think hasn't turned up doing a much nicer job of staying put...




Looking at it though I really do think the cars carpet should be black

Seats = Blue highlights, Door cards = Blue highlights, Blue carpet = Overkill.


I am pretty sure I could swap the stock blue carpet out for a black one, "quieten down" the look of the interior & add more stealth. Hmmmmm

 

 

I also took TECHNOPUG's advice & applied Dynamat to metal of the doors to seal off the holes & enclose the speakers (I also took the opportunity to use the mat to create a seal between the speaker mounts & metal dampen any vibration).







He was right , the depth of the sound is now phenomenal (& I've since noticed now my TV speakers sound like sh*t ).

 

In the name of Stealth I re-hit the interior parts with the same gloss I used on the exterior as A) the Halfrauds interior was crap & B) I wanted to do the vent rings so they matched...




Which they do



Currently resisting the urge to stealth this




Also added more blue film to the clock, now it matches the colour of the high beam light indicator at least




Also have this coming from that internet auction site, the wheel's rough, but it was cheap & I only want the airbag so that'll sort out the last of the retro silver crap in the interior

 

Now's where hopefully things get a little less boring

First off the car's noticeably running rich so swung by here to book it in to get some diagnostics done on it & discuss the monster 100k mile service that's getting closer...




Got myself some baffled catch cans, one for the PCV system & the other for the crankcase breather.....




And this

It came with a 2.5" decat downpipe too, but I am keeping my stock ProDrive sports cat. I'll replace my resonated centre section with this one & just throw this back box on for now as I've been assured it's stupidly loud & I plan on getting a Hayward & Scott angled Jap back box.




The manifold is the part I find the most interesting, definitely not shoddy Chinese crap

 

In other news I'll hopefully have these gaskets from ICP this Friday, there's a full set of intake gaskets in there too as seeing as it'll be due a dyno setup I might as well get carried away & do everything all in one hit...




These are on there way as well (can anyone tell me how long the stock bolts are that join the TGV assemblies to the heads)....




So apart from that I need to sort out some TGV deletes & do some homework on the fault removal - I am assuming I can remove the motor & leave it connected so the car thinks it working & doesn't go into limp mode?

I'll also get the intake manifold powdercoated (Black obviously ) before it all goes back together.

Cheers

 

And then I won some TGV deletes on that auction site

Stock ones which have been welded, that weigh in at a fraction of the cost of billet ones (also means as & when it'll be a straight swap & I can keep my stock originals).





Need to add fuel injector O-rings to the Christmas list

 

 

You sir...

Are correct

Looking on the bright side at least I haven't got to **** about with the fault code removal etc


While I was down there I measured the bolts that will need extending for the thermal spacers, M8 x 95mm as standard.