Instructions here http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...tructions#toc3

 

To be honest you are better off replacing that air filter as it will destroy your MAF behind it and getting a decent recirc valve from forge, or a dual port valve like I have so you still get some of the god awful chav sounds.

 

Thank you for your help I was googleing for ages and could not find it Does this look about right.

 

It does not seem to make a difference to the sound of the car tho just tried it still sounds the same

 

Remember these things do cause over fuelling. My mate had one on his, removed it after a few months. Your best bet is removed and fit standard valve. Then remove your resonator, that's what my mate did to his and sounds loads better. Plus you still have the wush noise if that's what your after.

 

No idea what the resonator is mate and yes it is the whoosh noise when changing gear that I'm after they just don't sound right without it in my opinion

 

Hi, that biggish black box inbetween the airfilter and the recirc valve is the resonator, it kills all induction noise and turbo sounds. Get rid of the k&n or any oiled airfilter as the oil coats the maf sensor. The best to buy is an apexi induction kit with the resonator delete, give funky power a call but its expensive, roughly 160. Imo get rid of the dump valve unless you buy an expensive one and get it mapped in. But until your induction kit is mapped in you may experience slight issues especially in the heat we have been having now, either keep a standard airbox in (but good luck finding a delete to fit that) or undo the bonnet vents to get more fresh air in. Also remember to use premium fuel and reset your ecu every time you make a change. I use the green and black things under the dash.
sorry i cant be more comprehensive but im on a break at work.

 

Thanx for the advise. How do you reset the ecu? As you can tell I'm not very mechanically minded I no what I want I just don't no how to do what I want so all these tips are helping a great deal I want to try keep it as stock as possible just a bit better sound and maybe a faster throttle response but I do t want to put strain on the engine it is 23 coming on 24 years old I don't no much about it's history and can not afford a rebuild or replacement

 

Mart has same engine as yours, so should be able to help.

 

Is it me or in the pic that keano and pross posted is that the wrong vacuum pipe going to the recirc valve, is that not the vacuum pipe that supposed to go to the actuator?

 

Engine bay with resonator, thats the black box to the left.




Engine bay with resonator delete.

 

Where would I get 1 of them from I have looked on eBay but nothing is coming up.

 

There rare bud, a wanted ad on forum may help you'd be surprised what people have lying around.

Here's a few links that may help.

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ete-where.html

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...on-my-car.html

 

Hi guys another question you all must be getting bored of me by now but I have the seal for the injector just wondering how I would go about doing it do I just put the seal round the injector and put it back in or...... I'm lost again

 

Open up a new topic in Tech section bud.

 

Hi, back from work now.
There is not much I can say to help, as im not too mechanically minded myself. Every thing I know has been read from forums, asked or shown by mates and forum guys, or learnt the hard way.

A few things I have learnt over the last year that I have owned mine.
Maintenance is important, keep the mechanical side of things going and running well before you start messing with toys.
Diff oil, engine and gearbox oil, they will need changing 100% if its been sat for years, could be the original stuff in it, and dont use cheap stuff, speak to oilman. I personally use millers.
There is a world of difference in mine from when i first got it, Spark plugs and hoses, filters, check them all, you dont want to be driving away from home in the rain when a coolant hose splits.
I have a turbo back 2.5" exhaust system with a sports cat and a hks induction kit with resonator delete. I will be upgrading to the Apexi induction kit soon, the HKS is just a stop gap for the resonator delete. That is the full extent of my mods until I get enough cash together for a ESL daughter board and remap session. I have one or two things packed away for fitting on the day of the remap.
http://http://www.enduringsolutions....553/category=0
The reason being the ecu can only change and adapt so much before calculations are missed and it runs too lean or rich etc. I dont know the ins and outs but I do know from experience that my car runs better with the resonator delete (which gives me lovely turbo and induction noises) than with the dump valve. The exception being really hot days like the 30+ days we have been having recently.
I believe you should have two green connectors and two black connectors under your dash, drivers side, they are unconnected and should look pretty tidy. There is a sequence to reset the ecu involving these.
http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/stock-ec...roper-way.html

All the best

 

So I fixed the leak went to start the car and now it won't start it just freezes like the engine is seized started motor is fine and the engine turnes manually but it just won't start any suggestions please

 

Maybe one of the cylinders has filled with petrol?
Remove spark plugs and crank the engine to clear.

 

Now thats a good write up.

 

Did you sort it?

 

hi mate the engine is running again but it's laggy now feels like it wants to cut out on idle and it's not very quick I'm not sure if I now need a new injectors or spark plugs or if the maf sensor it's just not working right and over fuleing seems to be 1 thing after the other but it is 24 years old also oil looks a bit watery

 

Full service i'd do first.

 

How did you get it running?
Have you still got the bailys dump valve on?
Put the oem recirc valve back on,the install the bailys into the nearest bin,do a full service,new oil,filter,plugs etc,then reset the ECU.

 

I took the spark plug out and cranked the engine over with a big ratchet 22mil I think it was I do still have the dump valve and I like the sound when you change gear I don't no how to 're set ecu and I'm going to change the filters and oil 2mora hopefully

 

Leave the battery off for half hour to reset the ecu.

If you like the sound, get a decent dual port bov or a quality recirc valve.

 

Message Mart he reset his, wires under dash i believe.

 

The correct way to reset a classic ECU:
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p.../ECUReset#toc3

 

Nice car... take the dump valve off and get a standard air box before you wreck the engine.

I feel like I've travelled back in time reading about induction kits and dump valves.

 

Thats the one, my missus did it on her classic.