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A 5w or 10w 40 is absolutely fine for road and light track use, the higher the larger number does not mean its any better at dispersing heat, thinner oils will move faster around the engine giving less drag on parts whilst still lubricating.
Too much bull about high weight oils being better when they really are not.
Indeed
Consider that Ford makes a highly compact turbocharged engine that produces 140BHP per litre......and what oil grade do they use?
5w-20 !!! Yes that's right 20 (and a bitch to find from a local supplier).
What makes the oil good is not its viscosity, but its quality.
The viscosity of a poorer quality oil will go out of grade sooner so will require more frequent changes...hence why Subaru had 6montly changes on semi-synth oils.
As the car in question here is mapped and Originally intended to do occasional track it had/has 10w60 in the summer months and 10w50 winter as the cold protection is not questioned it is simply addressing scoobies run hot, it is not currently due an oil change and oil level was ok Friday morning remember the oil should read between min and max when cold so not over max once warm. Each to their own with the oil debate as a daily/occasional blast I would recommend 10w50 all year then but change it when due not for the sake of it.
Heard a lot of tuners say some drag racers drop from 0w30 to 0w20 to gain a 5% power increase, would this type of percentage apply to dropping from 40 to 30 etc, Steve?
Heard a lot of tuners say some drag racers drop from 0w30 to 0w20 to gain a 5% power increase, would this type of percentage apply to dropping from 40 to 30 etc, Steve?
Best just drain oil completely and do one run then refill, (Zero Drag)
There will be enough oil stuck to the surfaces of engine to last 1 run im sure
Heard a lot of tuners say some drag racers drop from 0w30 to 0w20 to gain a 5% power increase, would this type of percentage apply to dropping from 40 to 30 etc, Steve?
Independent tests on Millers Nano are sometimes showing bigger gains of 5%, and they are based on back to back tests with the same grades!!!! If dropping a grade does indeed increase power from 2-5% depending on grade change 60 to 50 etc, higher grades seem to create more losses as a percentage from the tests I've seen then my formerly 333 WRX could now in theory be 366bhp.
Independent tests on Millers Nano are sometimes showing bigger gains of 5%, and they are based on back to back tests with the same grades!!!! If dropping a grade does indeed increase power from 2-5% depending on grade change 60 to 50 etc, higher grades seem to create more losses as a percentage from the tests I've seen then my formerly 333 WRX could now in theory be 366bhp.
The saddest thing in all this is that there are folk out there who may believe this B.S
The saddest thing in all this is that there are folk out there who may believe this B.S
Just google Nanodrive/Silkolene dyno results, oil isn't widely dynoed but from what I've seen performance oils or dropping grades invariably releases gains worthy of consideration.
I research things most performance car owners would deem insignificant. Or odd.
I now have one of the quickest 0-60 times in the Evo/Scoob community. Circa 3.5 with the new tyres.
Tbh I should dyno the car to see if it's risen from 333.
What a stupid comment! One of the quickest 0-60 imprezas haha
You need to realise the Subaru and Evo community is a little bit bigger than this sorry forum. You need to look a little further a field pal, there is a lot of extremely fast subarus and evolutions out there.
You don't even register against these quick cars, sorry bud