At first I was guessing fuel pump (only 1 year old) or low on fuel the couple of times I had just over 1/4 tank of fuel, but it happened with 3/4 tank a couple more times and then I started thinking it might be the fuel. The last time was just after I had filled up at Tesco's. I finished that tank and have used v power for the last few months and not had a problem. Even with 1/4 tank of fuel.

I must be unlucky if I keep filling up in 3 different Tesco's and keep getting random details fuel

 

Don't do it, or do it if you want problems.

Bought my PPP wagon with 92k on it, 2 owners 1st was Subaru for 13k then the lad I bought it off who was an enthusiast, it's now coming up to 125k all I've done is change the oil every 5k or 6 months, I only use Motul 300v.

If you want it to go faster fit PCA Dynamics springs, polly bushes and decent brakes, there's nothing wrong with the way they go with PPP, it's the brakes and handling that's the problem.

Mine needs a cambelt as it's almost 2yrs and 5k overdue, no way am I letting some spotty oik from a so called specialist anywhere near one of my cars again, last time I did that it cost me £9k, I'd sooner take my chances with a 7yr old belt.

 

I think you need to digest Ali's post and think about it. Its more than likely your ecu not been able to compensate...

If it doesn't have closed loop knock correction then you will have issues. It's not the fuel, it's the poor system running it. Like I said 99% of the time there are other underlying issues.

I don't get why people get their stock ecu flashed etc, a decent ecu is cheaper than an engine rebuild

 

Oh and on the topic of the thread, I'd say most fail because they have been modded and ragged by people that don't know very much about Subaru's, also the proliferation of so called tuners that have no scruples and take money from people that don't know any better, poorly tune/repair their cars and then shrug their shoulders when the engine lets go and say "well it could be anything mate" or "just one of those things pal"

Lots of cars are modded, ragged and then put back to standard for some poor unsuspecting person to come along and buy, thinking they have a nice un-molested example.

Lets face it we all owned other makes and ragged the **** off them for years with no worries, but Subarus require special attention and a little knowledge, they're not the sort of car you can get into and rag to death without having to pay for it sooner or later, they're a race horse, not a cart horse.

 

I've already fitted some decent suspension (meister r's), plus refurbished brakes on the front with braided steel lines all round and a brake stopper. I'm now debating flogging the upgrade parts I've got and using the cash for poly bushes and handling upgrades.

 

Not a fan of coilovers personally, they make the car a skittish over bumps at speed imo, on the road you need compliance and the ability to soak up bumps and no matter what you do to the standard 4 pots they still won't handle more than half a dozen decent stamps before they start to fade badly, been there done that with my Type R and that is circa 200kg lighter than the Wagon, I now have AP4 pots and the difference is night and day.

Fast driving isn't so much about power it's about the ability to carry speed, unless you're on track against something with 500bhp there won't be much in it, on the road if you know how to drive and your car is set up properly big power only comes into it on the straight bits, which is why people struggle to shake 180 bhp Clios with 350bhp Subarus in the twisties.

Power is nothing without control.

 

However, power is a lot of fun.

 

I hadn't seen Ali's post when I replied.
So it looks like my car was mapped with tesco's fuel that was a true 99 ron, but the Tesco fuel I've used recently could be closer to 97 ron (as Ali states), that might have lost some ron with being sat in a tank for months. If 99 ron fuel was actually 99 ron, I wouldn't have a problem

 

The answer to the "Scooby Engine Fail" question is not to do anything that may compromise the ability of your machinery to carry out the task required of it.
That's ANYTHING.
A few examples;
Having it mapped on V Power then running it on 95.
Failing to check your oil. I've had instances where an owner will swear blind they check it regularly, then fail the cross examination when I start asking questions like "Which day of the week do you check it" "Where do you park it" "Do you check it hot or cold" and even "What kind of rag do you use" ?
Any kind of motor sport without giving the under bonnet the third degree.
Doing what your mate says is good rather than listening to a 24/7 professional.
I could go on and on, although the classic one is continuing to abuse your car even when you suspect it's faulty, on the basis that a damn good thrashing is going to fix it. (DumbAss)

Re the rod bearings on Imprezas. They are titchy, compared to an Evo for example, due to the diddly crank. They fail when they are worn, or subject to low oil pressure. When they fail, they fail in a big hurry, unlike the old Cortinas I used to drive for months with the big ends knocking.
New properly built engines don't fail in this way, only old ones.

Go steady out there..

 

As above...

I would also say that the impreza flat 4 down to very nature of its design is perhaps not the strongest.

The price for a low COG and great torque is that the thing lies on it side, the block is in two halves, more oil sits in it ect

is not inherently weak if machined and built and cared for properly. But not taking any compromises is even more mission critical. And many take compromises.

 

Debatable
Tell that to Porsche , or are we goin to say the flat six supersedes the 4 in terms of design integrity / sure the 2.5 is a lemon but the other platforms are no diff in terms of reliability than any other marque .. What you do in terms of looking after your engine varies from manufacturer to manufacturer ,, ( care & procedure varies widely )

 

New Boxter S is a 2.5 Turbo Flat 4 !!

Wonder if zee germans do a better job !!

 

Not necessarily. Marketing over Reality.

 

An American Tuning company based in LA claims that most failures they get in the garage (that aren't due to bad tolerances from the factory) are due to heat coming from the turbo, up-pipe, downpipe, and headers effecting 1 cylinder more than the rest.

I suppose this isn't as common in colder countries though, if true that is.

 

The Impreza engine isn't weak! We've run up to 800 bhp from the stock block and crank. All you have to do is everything that you have to do.
Miss something, prepare to fail.

Here's an analogy for you;

You're taking out a local "Maid". She's quite happy with fish and chips and a bottle of lager in the back of the car.
You're taking out the girl you've had your eye on for years, she's classy, sweet and a "keeper". You dress up smart, collect her in a respectably safe car, take her to the movies (Her choice of film) followed by a meal out.
You're taking out the hottest of hot dates. Lamborghini, Italian restaurant, suite in a top hotel.

You'll succeed in all of the above endeavours, because you did the leg work..

 

Couldn't agree more,

If somethings built properly, used within it's limits and well maintained,
Theres no reason it should break,

What u says above on standard crank, why would people buy a billet one then ?
Piece of mind or higher than 800bhp ?

 

157k in my Bug PPP, including 37k the last 15 months. Dunno what all the fuss is about....(awaits imminent engine implosion..)

 

There's not many Impreza kicking around greater than 800 Smurfey / mr grumpy just likes a pat on the back time/time -
& the ones that are / so far away from stock drivability it's laughable ....
If your chasing over 600 by a supra or a Gtr , that way when you put your 30k into it / Won't smack you back in the face ha ha

 

Just curious as to why there are billet cranks if stock are so strong.
I've already lost most driveability on my stock 2.0 at 400bhp,


Can't imagine 600+ on the road..

 

Crank can take more "load"

 

Should of modded it right in the first place. Anyone can get numbers. Its how the car drives is where the specialist is head and shoulders above your average person.

 

Modded it right ?

Please explain what's been done wrong ?
Doesn't take a specialist to tell you a big turbo will spool later on a smaller engine.

Can tell from your posts your one of "those" kinda people,

You want drivability buy a Golf R

 

Porsche blocks have their own issues with the nikasil liners, they also benefit from being dry sumped which helps in a big way in terms of reliability. Jay007 you seem to talk down to people for a newb, what exactly are your qualifications to do so?

 

I honestly don;t know enough about their new flat 4 to comment,
However i do know that the old Metzger flat 6 used in the turbo and RS models
is bulletproof, shame it got replaced.

Their new engine uses their Variable Turbo Tech

310 Ft/lbs at 1900 rpm

Wonder if will fit ??

 

Have a listen, kinda sound like a scoob at idle and low revvs

 

Your right im 1 of them people.

I can tell you one of them people I'll just slap a big turbo on and say yeah its alright for it to drive like **** be laggy as hell its ok its modified

 

Nothing I wasn't expecting,

But guess you would pay a specialist to tell you that,


Please entertain us and tell us how a specialist would go about it ??

 

I know the difference between someone that knows what they want and what they get then moan about its crap banny sti. Theres some guys out there that do a great job at building there cars. But lossing drivability at 400bhp is some joke.

 

So which "specialist" do you recommend?

 

I would get him to build me a car that does what I expect. Not let my MOT tester mate build me it from taking bits of other people specs of the web and build me a dog of a car.