PayPal just took a beating, Genuine strut brace sticker and Genuine brand new grill badge ordered.

 

Nice! Rare things indeed are new Genuine Subaru Pink STI badges!!!

 

You got 2? lol

 

Haha, that's just the pic that I received from seller.

 

But why did they make them pink though!

 

Only a small update, but inlet has been painted. Just have to wait for it to dry and crinkle.

 

Fantastic. 👍

 

Like a 'commie' spider.

But with only half its legs.

WTF

 

Starting to collect a few bits for when engines pulled for replacement.

Brand new Arrow 5.4KG flywheel

 

Wow that IS lite!

Wonder how it'll fare in traffic...

 

That's borderline light, max minimum recommended is 5.5kg.
I have a 6kg one in.

 

Not a daily driver, so traffic isn't much of an issue. If it's too light I'll swop it out again.

 

I'm still not sure what direction to take with the bottom end, stroke it or not.

Stroker is great for that extra bit of capacity, but loses the originality of the car IMO.

 

Shouldn't be a problem as such but recommend lowest is 5.5kg. Just down to how quick the revs drop down etc, but should notice less mass on wot so will feel more nippier

 

I have a lightened OEM one at 7.5kg (c.11kg std). With a stg.2 CC.

TBH, I never noticed any difference before/after, in traffic. You 'learn' any given new 'clutch feel' - and how the revs rise and fall - within hours, IMO.

 

If you want originality then you probably want to use a classic block? I wouldn't, don't trust the things tbh, or get a classic block rebuilt with a step up on internals as stock.
Or put a new age ej207 in there and will be more than reliable for the power it's going to run. (I just so have one soon with new bearings fitted when time permits).

 

I have an EJ207 block (with knocking bottom end) ready to strip down to use for my donor. It's going to get new crank, rods and Pistons so wouldn't cost any more to do a stroker but it's niggling me a bit.

 

Just ordered my new turbo too... Inkeeping with my OE (plus) theme, VF23 machined to accept billet VF34 wheel, and has ceramic bearings.

 

Not a great update, but started putting my inlet together today, I'm not bolting it up as I'm going to order all new bolts up for this.

New genuine PCV has been ordered too so that'll be fitted when it arrives.

 

Gotta love refurb'd/refreshed ancillaries.

 

Might as well do a diy parallel rail/lines for reliability

 

Considered, but sticking with OE. Not going to run big power anyway.

 

I know but it's more efficient for each cylinder to get equal amount of fuel all the time, not purely for big builds.

 

After a good chat with AS Performance today, the decision has been made to go 2.1, he made a good point about originality in that if it's forged then it's already non original so may as well improve things while I can.

So shopping list is

Mahle piston kit
Heat treated EJ257 crank
Forged rods
Unrated bearing kit

All the other stuff required for extensive rebuild.

*Dear Santa....

 

Finally found a red stitched Nardi wheel too, as I've never been happy with the aftermarket Nardi wheel on it at the moment. Should receive this in a couple of days. I might send it off and get it refurbished if that's even possible.

 

It was inevitable.
Good choice

 

It's going to be well over specced for my target power, but it's fully future proofed. If for some reason I want to run 500+ then it'll take it.

 

Agree, I'm overspeccing mine too which will barley see 500, but good to know I have reserves.

 

I also intend on building this engine myself from scratch, I've not done one yet but feel it's something I need to do.

The thought of driving a car with an engine I've built in it will be amazing. Either that or it'll end in expensive tears.

 

Lol, the only thing I can't/won't do.