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Okay, so I think I made quite a bit of progress tonight Here's what I discovered....
a) All of the fuses down by driver's right knee are okay.
b) Tried starting it a few times with the standard ECU plugged in and then connected it to my laptop - There are no error codes according to ECU Explorer.
c) Took a HT lead off the cylider nearest the passenger seat and plugged in one of the old spark plugs I took out of the car on Monday (left the new one in to avoid the 'stuff coming out' of the spark plug hole issue). No spark when trying to start the car. This was back on the Alcatek ECU.
d) Took the new spark plug out of that same cylinder and chucked the old one back in temporarily. Tried to start the car again with the new one out and there was still no spark with that either.
So, it basically looks like I have no spark? So I'm thinking coil pack could be the problem?
When the car is immobilised, the fuel pump doesn't prime and it is priming, so I don't think it's an immobiliser issue.
Last edited by simonds1; 10 August 2016 at 11:35 PM.
Hey guys, I'm really sorry to confuse the thread, but you'll have to ignore my comments about the spark plug testing above because I've realised I didn't even do the test correctly - I didn't earth them in any way, I just had them out in free air Was too busy trying to get them on a video on my phone than actually doing the flipping test properly. Doh. So I may well still have a spark, will have to check again tomorrow night. Won't have time tonight.
If it's a UK car running the sigma alarm then the Immobiliser circuits are fuel pump and starter so if it's turning over and the pump is priming then it's not that. Not sure what the in built immobiliser does with the ECU but when you put the key in the ignition the light on the dashboard (not the led by the fog light switch) should stop flashing. Could be a failing fuel pump, you said it sounds different and if it's not getting enough pressure could cause starting issues. I'd check you're getting a spark first before going down the fuel pump route.
So, I know you have the laptop, but being a classic, you can also read the codes on the dash using the connectors underneath the dash. Do you know about them and have you checked them? Again, that'll be with the stock ECU.
So, I know you have the laptop, but being a classic, you can also read the codes on the dash using the connectors underneath the dash. Do you know about them and have you checked them? Again, that'll be with the stock ECU.
Yes I completely agree with Shane aswell. I did know about the connectors under the dash yeah, but I didn't think there was any point in trying them seeing as no faults showed up in ECU Explorer? Do you think it's worth me still trying them? I've got the Alcatek ECU back in the car at the moment. If there were fault codes on the standard ECU from my previous starting attempts that ECU Exporer wasn't showing for some reason, will they still be on there now it's been disconnected from the battery for a few days?
Fine breaks can be hard to see visually so always best to use a meter for continuity.
The SB(slow blow) ones are under the bonnet along with the other fuses and the fusible link.
Yes I completely agree with Shane aswell. I did know about the connectors under the dash yeah, but I didn't think there was any point in trying them seeing as no faults showed up in ECU Explorer? Do you think it's worth me still trying them? I've got the Alcatek ECU back in the car at the moment. If there were fault codes on the standard ECU from my previous starting attempts that ECU Exporer wasn't showing for some reason, will they still be on there now it's been disconnected from the battery for a few days?
Well, it's just that I'm a little surprised you have no codes. Given it doesn't take long to switch the ECU, crank the engine, then plug the connectors together to see if any codes pop up, it seems worthwhile. The codes may not be present now, so just repeat the starting procedure with the stock ECU. It would be good just to rule it out.
Well, it's just that I'm a little surprised you have no codes. Given it doesn't take long to switch the ECU, crank the engine, then plug the connectors together to see if any codes pop up, it seems worthwhile. The codes may not be present now, so just repeat the starting procedure with the stock ECU. It would be good just to rule it out.
Yeah I completely agree David, would be good to rule it out for sure so I will definitely try that at some point when I've got a minute.
So a little update from lastnight - I re-did the spark plug test and I still think I have no spark. I say think because I'm not sure if I did the test correctly. Basically, because it's just me on my own, I couldn't physically reach to hold a spark plug against an earthing point whilst trying to start the car at the same time, so I used an earthing cable instead. I went from the earthing point by the right hand side intercooler bracket to the ground electrode on the spark plug. Tried the new and old plugs and no spark at all, nothing.
I also have another slight development in that previously when I tried to crank the engine (for about 10-15 seconds) and then removed a spark plug to look at it, it appeared to be pretty dry even though it did smell of fuel. But lastnight, even though I was only cranking the engine for about 3-5 seconds at a time to check if I had a spark, the spark plugs were coming out like this.....
I honestly don't know if this is a good or bad thing as whatever is on there is pretty dark and I wouldn't expect fuel to be dark? Looks like old dirty oil, but definitely smells of fuel. So quite possibly from all of this we could assume that I do have fuel and I don't have a spark? I highly doubt it's that simple, but you never know. I guess I'll try checking the error codes with the cables under the dash next, and if that shows up nothing then possibly get a new coil pack off ebay? I did google if you could test them but the opinion seemed to be that tests weren't accurate and you could still have a dodgy coil pack pass the tests you were doing to it. So yeah, will update once I've checked for error codes and would be interested to know what you guys think in the meantime
I also still need to check all the fuses with a meter rather than just visually. Should hopefully have time to try it at some point this weekend.
Last edited by simonds1; 13 August 2016 at 09:22 AM.
Good work. I must say, I distinctly remember just holding the coil pack and running the starter motor and I got a fecking massive shock off the pack. I hadn't earthed it. I suppose it was earthing through me, hence why I got an electrifying experience!
It's my opinion that the problem you have is electrical. The question is where. If you really don't have any codes (once checked) and all fuses have been checked, I'd be buying a new coil pack.
Hi guys, I think I have a pretty major update tonight. I plugged the standard ECU back in and tried to start the car twice. Then I plugged the black diagnostic cables together under the steering column and managed to get an error code from my check engine light....
If I am not mistaken, that is error code 11 which is crankshaft position sensor, which is known for making the car not start as someone has already mentioned. So, that seems pretty good right? Would make absolute perfect sence. One question I have though - would a faulty crankshaft position sensor somehow stop the plugs from sparking? Because in a previous test I've established I have no spark. Hopefully those two things are related, otherwise I have a separate issue causing me to have no spark. Well, one step at a time, I guess I need to get a sensor ordered up to try. Does anyone have any recommendations as to which one to get and where from? Are second hand ones on ebay any good or best to stick to brandnew?
Thanks for all your help so far everyone, we definitely seem to be getting somewhere
Bingo!! Yes, when I posted that I thought it might be the camshaft position sensor, I actually meant the crankshaft position sensor. Someone else mentioned the same. When doing an oil change it is common practice to disconnect the sensor before cranking the engine to get oil pressure built up. Disconnection of the sensor stops the engine firing. It would make sense that it stops the spark since the timing of the spark during the compression phase is absolutely critical. If the ECU can't pick up the position of the crankshaft, it can't do it, so no spark.
Glad I didn't trust your laptop software. So, yeah, new crankshaft position sensor and you should be done. I'd strongly suggest the OEM item. Very easy to change (one 10mm bolt and the connector) and you're back on the tarmac.
So, yeah, new crankshaft position sensor and you should be done. I'd strongly suggest the OEM item. Very easy to change (one 10mm bolt and the connector) and you're back on the tarmac.
I really wish it was that easy David, but unfortunately I've got seized brakes etc to sort out once I get the engine running! Haha, oh the joys!
Have ordered an OEM sensor which should be here tomorrow or Thursday so I will update once I've fitted it. Hopefully all will be okay, but I've got a feeling it's not going to be very happy being woken up after nearly 9 months!
Yeah, and 3 posts after that I replied saying I had checked it But unforunately I did it by using ECU Explorer which for whatever reason said I had no error codes, so I assumed it was okay and started looking elsewhere. Anyway, I've just changed the sensor and it made absolutely no difference
This is the sensor I changed, genuine OEM and I assume it's the correct part for a MY00 UK Turbo 2000?.....
I tried testing for a spark again after I changed the crankshaft position sensor, and it appears that I still have no spark. So it's possible that my coil pack has gone aswell? That's the only other thing I can think of, unless there's something else that would stop a spark? Somebody previously mentioned the immobiliser as a possibility. I have a Scorpion alarm and when it's immobilised, the fuel pump doesn't prime, but it IS priming now so I'm pretty sure it's not that either.
I still haven't checked all of the fuses with a meter. Car is outside and it's pissing it down now so will have to do that another night and report back. Can't really think of anything else in the meantime?
to check spark just use an old HT lead and a plug, saves having to pull the plugs all the time.you can ground it with a jump lead which also gives you something to hold that is insulated.
to check spark just use an old HT lead and a plug, saves having to pull the plugs all the time.you can ground it with a jump lead which also gives you something to hold that is insulated.
That's sort of what I did yeah. I just took the HT lead off the cylinder nearest the passenger seat (which is easy to get to now because I've left the screenwash bottle out) and connected it to one of the old spark plugs I'd taken out last week. No spark. Then I thought it's kinda pointless checking spark with old plugs that might be knackered so I chucked an old one back in the block and had a new one on the end of the HT lead. Still no spark
This is a complete bummer. I'm very surprised. Your Youtube video definitely showed Error code 11. Can you confirm this is the code for the Crankshaft sensor not camshaft?
Having fitted the sensor, have you now done an ECU reset (the green connectors I think?) and then checked for codes again?
WAIT A MINUTE!!! That box you have taken a photo of says Camshaft, not Crankshaft!!!! I think the sensors look very similar.
Good spot that man! I was just trying to confirm 100% what error code 11 was. Some websites say 'crankshaft position sensor' and some say 'crankshaft angle sensor'. I'm going to assume they are the same thing?
So basically it looks like I've gone and bought the wrong damn sensor! What a plonker
I haven't tried checking for codes again because I'd have to put my old ECU back in and it's raining and I can't be bothered. One question on that subject though - If my standard ECU had that code on it last time I tried to start it, and it has now been unplugged from the car for a few days, will it still have that code stored or will the fact it's been disconnected from the battery mean it will have reset itself? I don't want to plug it back in and get the same historic code from before sorta thing. From what I've read on some websites, the code clearing procedure involves actually starting the engine?......which I can't do. Doh
10 August 2016, 11:32 PM
Here's what I discovered....
Was too busy trying to get them on a video on my phone than actually doing the flipping test properly. Doh. So I may well still have a spark, will have to check again tomorrow night. Won't have time tonight.
