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TY856WN4KA 6 speed to replace type r 5 speed...info needed please!

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Old 13 February 2016, 08:04 AM
  #31  
d.kenny
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I think you are thinking to hard!

My car is deffo r180 rear as it is a type r and has dccd standard and i snapped a shaft and im now running 6 speed shafts in the rear

As for the front with the bits iv got im sure il be sble to do somet with the bits i have

Both the 5 and 6 speed bits i have are both dccd and both 5x100

I cant believe subaru would of gone to such great lengths with bearings etc and even if the have im sure il be able to machine the hubs if need be

You seem to be contradicting yourself with thd front shafts or confusing me st least

Is what you are saying about the stubs so you can use r160 front shafts?

My stuff is definitely larger and r180 so id imagine the spline count and size will be the same

R160 stuff look like a pencil compared to mine!
Old 13 February 2016, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
I think you are thinking to hard!

My car is deffo r180 rear as it is a type r and has dccd standard and i snapped a shaft and im now running 6 speed shafts in the rear

As for the front with the bits iv got im sure il be sble to do somet with the bits i have

Both the 5 and 6 speed bits i have are both dccd and both 5x100

I cant believe subaru would of gone to such great lengths with bearings etc and even if the have im sure il be able to machine the hubs if need be

You seem to be contradicting yourself with thd front shafts or confusing me st least

Is what you are saying about the stubs so you can use r160 front shafts?

My stuff is definitely larger and r180 so id imagine the spline count and size will be the same

R160 stuff look like a pencil compared to mine!
No you said your front shafts are femaless ended, hence you will need the half shafts to go with them. Or use the male ended crashed wr1 shafts. Personally I wouldn't use crashed drive shafts.

R180 only applies to the rear, it won't apply to the front. If you have female ended shafts I doubt the male shafts will fit your hubs etc. I found a post by API on here stating as such
Old 14 February 2016, 10:39 AM
  #33  
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As said, you need a 354 diff not a 3.9. R180 will fit straight on your car on current rear set up.

Leave your front shafts on and get a stub kit to convert shafts to make male ended if not already (you said your box is female and front shafts are female?

Forget about the rest, your making it seem hard then it is.

You have a type r with mostly correct set up to make job half done, just swap box, diff, prop and sort front shafts in to front diff (get stub kit if needed).
Job done.
Old 14 February 2016, 03:25 PM
  #34  
d.kenny
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The diff im fitting is matched to the box so id say its correct

How much can i have these stubs for then and what else do i need?

Cheers

What type of rear diff does the wr1 have compared to my original type r to?

Its an lsd of some sort as by rotating the prop both outputs of diff rotate the same way and i think my type r is the same

Does the front diff have any advantage to?

Cheers
Old 14 February 2016, 03:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
The diff im fitting is matched to the box so id say its correct

How much can i have these stubs for then and what else do i need?

Cheers

What type of rear diff does the wr1 have compared to my original type r to?

Its an lsd of some sort as by rotating the prop both outputs of diff rotate the same way and i think my type r is the same

Does the front diff have any advantage to?

Cheers
Your rear diff on the type r will be 4.44 if I am researching correctly? Your diff on the wr1 would be a 3.54 or 3.90.
Old 14 February 2016, 04:07 PM
  #36  
d.kenny
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Im on about the type of diff and advantages

Not the ratio

Cheers
Old 14 February 2016, 05:27 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
Im on about the type of diff and advantages

Not the ratio

Cheers
Regardless of the advantages or disadvantages, your type r diff will NOT work correctly with the WANKA box you're fitting.
Too many questions with all the answers already stated.
I'm done here.
Old 14 February 2016, 06:28 PM
  #38  
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Type r has a plated diff which works better on track, the wr1 has a regular LSD. You wont notice any difference unless you drive like a rally driver on the road. If you have the skill you can swap the crown wheel and pinion from the wr1 rear diff into the type r diff casing and you have a 3.54 plated rear diff
Old 14 February 2016, 07:13 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
Regardless of the advantages or disadvantages, your type r diff will NOT work correctly with the WANKA box you're fitting.
Too many questions with all the answers already stated.
I'm done here.
Maybe i have failed to make myself clear

I know that my 4.44 diff will not work with the wr1 gearbox...i never planned on doing this at all

The question i asked was about how the type r diff being plated would be different in the way the vehicle drives compared to a torsen type diff...what are the characteristic differences

And also what the difference between the front diff of both gearboxes is like characteristially

Both jglanzav and yourself have frustrated me (and probably me you both) on what i was perhaps trying to explain and the information that you were giving back



I think if you re read theough what i have weitten and then what you have replied you will realise you have totally missed what i was asking???!!!
Old 14 February 2016, 07:15 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by banny sti
Type r has a plated diff which works better on track, the wr1 has a regular LSD. You wont notice any difference unless you drive like a rally driver on the road. If you have the skill you can swap the crown wheel and pinion from the wr1 rear diff into the type r diff casing and you have a 3.54 plated rear diff
Cheers pal

You can obviously read

Is it worth doing the swap...how do they work differently and what are the advantages and disadvantages of both?

I have the parts available so if i can make a setup better with the parts i have lieing about/surplus then its rude not to
Old 14 February 2016, 07:21 PM
  #41  
d.kenny
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Just to clarify on the bits i have

On car already

5 speed dccd
R180 4.44 rear end
6 speed rear shafts

Bits i have to fit/hybridise

Wr1 front shafts
Wr1 rear shafts
Wr1 gear box dccd female front shafts
Wr1 prop
2x wr1 3.whatever diffs
Various other hibs etc removed from wr1

Whether parts have been involved in a crash or not is irrelevant...if they fit and run true and work then thats fine

If they dont they will be removed and plan b will be used

All i was after was a bit of advice on what is what with the setup and the best way to go about things before hand to make the install simple so i can perhaps source the extra parts needed

I know that dfferent final drives will not work

Please gove me more credit than this and read the posts 😂😂😂
Old 14 February 2016, 07:32 PM
  #42  
d.kenny
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Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
If you've got the whole car to remove them off then go for it.
I also stated, IF you want to leave your front shafts on then you need that stub kit, UNLESS you're changing them along with hubs if needed.
Just seems a lot of work when you can save it, but upto you.

That box Dccd is from a later blob, or in your case a wr1 as they had dccd but depends on year of wr1 it came from.
But code is pointing to widetrack blob as they never did dccd until widetrack but wr1 had dccd so same box.
1-4th short ratio and long 5-6th.

Is the diff you got come from wr1 too or are you planning on leaving your type r diff on?
Using wr1 diff
Old 14 February 2016, 07:50 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
Maybe i have failed to make myself clear

I know that my 4.44 diff will not work with the wr1 gearbox...i never planned on doing this at all

The question i asked was about how the type r diff being plated would be different in the way the vehicle drives compared to a torsen type diff...what are the characteristic differences

And also what the difference between the front diff of both gearboxes is like characteristially

Both jglanzav and yourself have frustrated me (and probably me you both) on what i was perhaps trying to explain and the information that you were giving back



I think if you re read theough what i have weitten and then what you have replied you will realise you have totally missed what i was asking???!!!
Well I do apologise, I thought the whole point of thread was doing the conversion, hence I didn't see the rest of it relevant.
I can't answer your other questions as I'm not qualified enough.
Old 14 February 2016, 08:26 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
Well I do apologise, I thought the whole point of thread was doing the conversion, hence I didn't see the rest of it relevant.
I can't answer your other questions as I'm not qualified enough.
Yep if we can't read I don't know how we would know what a torsen diff is....!

We were only trying to help...
Old 14 February 2016, 11:08 PM
  #45  
d.kenny
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I appreciate the help

Think we all had our wires crossed though!

Hopefully all clear now

I maybe interested in them stubs though if you want to do a deal?

As it may make things easier/if other shafts are scrap

Cheers
Old 15 February 2016, 07:13 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
I appreciate the help

Think we all had our wires crossed though!

Hopefully all clear now

I maybe interested in them stubs though if you want to do a deal?

As it may make things easier/if other shafts are scrap

Cheers
yes mate we can do a deal I am sure. I would always use female shafts where possible, means you don't have to drop the gear oil every time you want to do something and the drive shaft is easy to remove ☺
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