E46 M3
#31
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I would take your time in picking the right one. I looked two years ago and a 2005 plate was around £8k they seem to be asking more now. It's not that they are worth more it's just what people are asking as you will know Glasses guide will have those cars at far less than what they want.
#32
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Really nice things to drive and easy to live with as a daily as it feels quite a mature car if driven gently...but as said you do really need to know how to pedal to get the best of it; traction control off it will bite you if you can't drive.
Spent ages looking for one, flirted with a E92 and then bought an S2000...go figure
Spent ages looking for one, flirted with a E92 and then bought an S2000...go figure
#34
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Great road cars . As someone mentioned you can pottle around like in a normal refined car and have a blast on the longer stretch . However it's not a fun car , unless you rev the nuts out of it. But where and how often will that happen in the real world? Coming from Impreza and Evo to such a lazy power delivery will be disappointing (as i have found out ) . It's a great all rounder but not a weekend toy .
On track it shines , it needs more precision and skill to make it fast , rear end feedback is great and controllable , balance in general seemed to be great with the right Geo to eliminate understeer. Once they roll , they don't need all that torque to keep them going , as we Turbo guys always brag about . It's a totally different machine to any Turbo charged jap car IMO. It's deffo an itch to scratch , just maybe not yet , as after a 1.5 year i'm still enjoying my 6 ( when it works )
On track it shines , it needs more precision and skill to make it fast , rear end feedback is great and controllable , balance in general seemed to be great with the right Geo to eliminate understeer. Once they roll , they don't need all that torque to keep them going , as we Turbo guys always brag about . It's a totally different machine to any Turbo charged jap car IMO. It's deffo an itch to scratch , just maybe not yet , as after a 1.5 year i'm still enjoying my 6 ( when it works )
It's a great compromise when you need it to be used more often . It's totally different concept to any rally chassis so shouldn't be compared to MO. However it does more for my current circumstances and that automatically can be as a rewarding experience . DSC off , Sport Button on and the lazy kitten goes into Tiger mode , you have to work for it , but by doing so it is rewarding as well. Delivery is linear and speed sensation is not same due to sound isolation and lack of turbo lag , but comparing it to FQ330 @360ish it's up it's **** most of the time when rolling. In wet 4WD's will have more advantages in average hands , M3 requires huge ***** to be tamed in wet. But that's the only "disadvantage" which is not a disadvantage really as 40 mph skids are great fun on some empty forgotten country side roundabout
I've found my motoring satisfaction from it just from wanting to drive it everywhere , more often than i did any of the scoobs or evo . Driving it and not ****ting my pants for something to go wrong . Not doing idiotic service intervals and not listening to the missus rants when you have to travel a longer distance
It's not perfect , subframe cracks single pot brakes , old shocks or suspension components can give you negative impression once you drive it but all freshened up it's a fantastic perfomance platform which needs to be exploited to the limits to understand what huge potential these cars have.
#35
#36
What would you say is a reasonable price to pay for a low mileage manual coupe these days.
#38
#39
Seen a phonix yellow convertible at around 40k miles going at 17k miles only problem is it a 4 hour drive away from me.
#40
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I bought one for £6700 and sold it last year at auction for £4800 a year later. It was 03, manual coupe with original 19s and sat nav, but yellow and 129000 miles. Excellent mechanically, but the bodywork had some paint and wings and boot rust. Everyone wants low mileage manual coupes that are not yellow.
#41
People are obviously buying the big money m3's and if they are showroom with no rust and service history then i can understand it.
I bought my old silver grey car for £5500, kept if for two years spent a fair bit on it and sold it for £7300, well i gave it away as it wasn't rusty, just had an inspection 2 new smg pump etc, i had a que of people wanting to buy it and it sold within 12 hours so i undersold it.
I've just bought a carbon black car, 108,000 miles manual for not a lot and it's a great car
#42
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70k - 80k ish is low miles given the age. Subframe and service history are mega important with them in my eyes. Bodywork is an easy fix.
#43
It a coupe
#44
Scooby Regular
#45
#46
Scooby Regular
Leather seats can be sorted if you know where to go.
Is it manual or SMG? what options? vert or coupe? etc
#48
Without the subframe being given the all clear personally i'd walk away. Even if it was given the all clear i'd drop the budget to allow the cost of reinforcing it (£1800-£2500 depending on where you go and whats done) because they all go sooner or later.
Leather seats can be sorted if you know where to go.
Is it manual or SMG? what options? vert or coupe? etc
Leather seats can be sorted if you know where to go.
Is it manual or SMG? what options? vert or coupe? etc
Last edited by scooby k; 25 April 2017 at 12:35 PM.
#49
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Biggest down fall as mentioned is the subframe, or for better words the tin foil that the subaframe attaches to. Speaking from experience, unless you drop the whole subframe you cant fully see the extent of the damage or hair line cracks just waiting to go pop.
Removing all of the underseal from around the mounting points will highlight most of the weakness.
Its not that bad of a job to strengthen, and a good time to refresh all the rear bushes.
Removing all of the underseal from around the mounting points will highlight most of the weakness.
Its not that bad of a job to strengthen, and a good time to refresh all the rear bushes.
#50
Biggest down fall as mentioned is the subframe, or for better words the tin foil that the subaframe attaches to. Speaking from experience, unless you drop the whole subframe you cant fully see the extent of the damage or hair line cracks just waiting to go pop.
Removing all of the underseal from around the mounting points will highlight most of the weakness.
Its not that bad of a job to strengthen, and a good time to refresh all the rear bushes.
Removing all of the underseal from around the mounting points will highlight most of the weakness.
Its not that bad of a job to strengthen, and a good time to refresh all the rear bushes.
#51
Scooby Regular
#52
#56
Have a read of this. quite a good article ref the subframe issues:
https://drivetribe.com/p/Pl7K58qaTcO...R2G5wGuEEUy_jQ
https://drivetribe.com/p/Pl7K58qaTcO...R2G5wGuEEUy_jQ
Saved myself 2k I suppose if it needed doing but really feel like kicking myself for loosing out on the car. God knows when another good one will pop up.
#58
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#60
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Im dubious when owners say 'subframe inspected' unless they can prove its been done by someone in the know, and not by BMW dealership or back street garage.
They are great cars and should appreciate, but if it was my money id get an E90 M3!