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From: Hampshire
My thinking with re using te gaskets I'm currently running was that if it's ok to re use a decomp plate, split a new MLS head gasket and put the plates either side with some hylomar then re using basically sound looking gaskets with a bit of hylomar would be fine, and they have been with 7000 miles 1.5 bar and 300+hp. No coolant use or pressurising coolants system at all.
I think the new MLS gaskets I have bought will be fine for what I'm doing, providing the block and heads are flat and clean and that I don't cook the engine (this aneals the bolts and you loose all clamping effort)
Still brain storming head stud ideas
I think the new MLS gaskets I have bought will be fine for what I'm doing, providing the block and heads are flat and clean and that I don't cook the engine (this aneals the bolts and you loose all clamping effort)
Still brain storming head stud ideas
Will be interested to see what you come up with head stud wise, I'm on OEM head bolts, but i'm not planning to run 500+ brake so didn't really need them.
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From: harlow
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From: harlow
Just popped the ex housing off, the machining and casting quality is actually quite good, the problem with the WG port is that it's a cast hole, not finish machined at all, still it's not going to take long to bore it out and finish it off. Not in the middle either, but I'll work round that.
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From: harlow
.How much was the new turbo again,the quality does look good
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From: harlow
Ok, so I'm not worrying about te turbo too much just now as the ter shafts cant take the power I have just now!
Snapped one of my machined shafts on the weekend.
Hmmm.
Time to manufacture some billet shafts from steel
Snapped one of my machined shafts on the weekend.
Hmmm.
Time to manufacture some billet shafts from steel
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From: harlow
Start with some 1 1/2" 4140 billets
Turn one side
Then the other
There you go, just need to pop some grooves in them, then spline both ends.
Unsure as yet of any heat treatment required? Perhaps someone in here knows?
Turn one side
Then the other
There you go, just need to pop some grooves in them, then spline both ends.
Unsure as yet of any heat treatment required? Perhaps someone in here knows?
Awesome work! Wouldn't heat treatment make the metal harder and more brittle?
I've seen people heating steel and dunking it in used engine oil to add carbon to the steel and making it stronger.
I've seen people heating steel and dunking it in used engine oil to add carbon to the steel and making it stronger.
Last edited by piehole1983; Dec 1, 2014 at 06:18 PM.
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From: harlow
Although 4140 is already tempered (strength) and through hardened to 18-22 rc.
I'm no metallurgist so don't really know what's required. All I do know is oem shafts are made of cheaper steel and only case hardened, Hence my failure here
Perhaps you'd be ok they way they are then. It seems you have easy access to the materials and you're doing all the work yourself, if that was me I'd make them up and try them as is. No point in the added expenditure if they'll do the job as they are.
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From: harlow
My thoughts exactly sandy
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From: harlow
Hardness is really for wear, on the splines if there's movement for example.
I'm not interested in that, strength is what I'm after! Keeping some flexibility may help the shaft survive too
I'm not interested in that, strength is what I'm after! Keeping some flexibility may help the shaft survive too
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From: harlow
Cryo is not that expensive, I have cranks done for the EG33 builds, blocks & rods, have a look http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/index.p...k45au1q15elf47
I reckon 4 shafts about £120.00
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From: harlow
Cryo is not that expensive, I have cranks done for the EG33 builds, blocks & rods, have a look http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/index.p...k45au1q15elf47
I reckon 4 shafts about £120.00
I reckon 4 shafts about £120.00
