knock knock
14 September 2014, 06:38 PM
#33
I have a set of Tein type Flex fitted, they where a little bit under 2k (1600 odd) but I cant fault them as far as handling goes, they are a little stiff for B road bashing but they really come alive on circuit (which is where I drive the car properly.. ) I have the widetrack blob (so pretty much the same as the hawkeye just without the chocolate)
I was advised against getting "cheap crappy BC's" not my words! by several respected tuners as they where not very good. I didn't think much else about it, but others who have been out in my car have commented on how stiff yet compliant it is compared to theirs (BC Owners) and how much more comfortable it was (despite having stiffer springs than the BC's)
I have also been out on track in a couple of cars with BC's on.. they felt a little soggy round the edges if I'm honest.
I was faced with the same dilemma as most, bouncy **** crappy standard suspension and knocking rear shocks..yes its CRAP! don't try telling yourself the standard stuff its ok.. it simply isn't..buy right and buy once.. job done.
I was advised against getting "cheap crappy BC's" not my words! by several respected tuners as they where not very good. I didn't think much else about it, but others who have been out in my car have commented on how stiff yet compliant it is compared to theirs (BC Owners) and how much more comfortable it was (despite having stiffer springs than the BC's)
I have also been out on track in a couple of cars with BC's on.. they felt a little soggy round the edges if I'm honest.
I was faced with the same dilemma as most, bouncy **** crappy standard suspension and knocking rear shocks..yes its CRAP! don't try telling yourself the standard stuff its ok.. it simply isn't..buy right and buy once.. job done.
14 September 2014, 06:55 PM
#34
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Is there not a choice of decent "branded" aftermarket shocks and springs, as opposed too coillys ? Mine has too carry kids and the knocking is doing my sweed in... it only happen ocasionly but still driving me bonkers.
I want it a bit lower too not alot though
I have thought about doing the grease nipple fix with new seals and pinks springs but... not sure on results lol
I want it a bit lower too not alot though
I have thought about doing the grease nipple fix with new seals and pinks springs but... not sure on results lol
14 September 2014, 07:42 PM
#35
I have a set of Tein type Flex fitted, they where a little bit under 2k (1600 odd) but I cant fault them as far as handling goes, they are a little stiff for B road bashing but they really come alive on circuit (which is where I drive the car properly.. ) I have the widetrack blob (so pretty much the same as the hawkeye just without the chocolate)
I was advised against getting "cheap crappy BC's" not my words! by several respected tuners as they where not very good. I didn't think much else about it, but others who have been out in my car have commented on how stiff yet compliant it is compared to theirs (BC Owners) and how much more comfortable it was (despite having stiffer springs than the BC's)
I have also been out on track in a couple of cars with BC's on.. they felt a little soggy round the edges if I'm honest.
I was faced with the same dilemma as most, bouncy **** crappy standard suspension and knocking rear shocks..yes its CRAP! don't try telling yourself the standard stuff its ok.. it simply isn't..buy right and buy once.. job done.
I was advised against getting "cheap crappy BC's" not my words! by several respected tuners as they where not very good. I didn't think much else about it, but others who have been out in my car have commented on how stiff yet compliant it is compared to theirs (BC Owners) and how much more comfortable it was (despite having stiffer springs than the BC's)
I have also been out on track in a couple of cars with BC's on.. they felt a little soggy round the edges if I'm honest.
I was faced with the same dilemma as most, bouncy **** crappy standard suspension and knocking rear shocks..yes its CRAP! don't try telling yourself the standard stuff its ok.. it simply isn't..buy right and buy once.. job done.
14 September 2014, 08:27 PM
#37
Had many sets of coilovers over the years on various Imprezas and have found that the Jap coilovers like Tein, Cusco, HKS etc are terrible for our roads and every set ive had have knocked and are way to hard to the point that the car is dangerous to drive, as there is no give in the suspension which is great on a race track, but horrible when your hitting pot holes and dips on our british roads!!!
Best set of coilovers Ive had on any Impreza have been the Eibach pro street coilover that I have had on my previous hawk sti and blobeye!!
There not to hard(slightly harder then standard shock set up) but you can adjust it to how high/low you want the ride height which is all you want for a road car, Ok they havent got all the bells and whistles as Ohlins, KW, AST etc but there a lot cheaper.
Best set of coilovers Ive had on any Impreza have been the Eibach pro street coilover that I have had on my previous hawk sti and blobeye!!
There not to hard(slightly harder then standard shock set up) but you can adjust it to how high/low you want the ride height which is all you want for a road car, Ok they havent got all the bells and whistles as Ohlins, KW, AST etc but there a lot cheaper.
14 September 2014, 08:29 PM
#38
Had many sets of coilovers over the years on various Imprezas and have found that the Jap coilovers like Tein, Cusco, HKS etc are terrible for our roads and every set ive had have knocked and are way to hard to the point that the car is dangerous to drive, as there is no give in the suspension which is great on a race track, but horrible when your hitting pot holes and dips on our british roads!!!
Best set of coilovers Ive had on any Impreza have been the Eibach pro street coilover that I have had on my previous hawk sti and blobeye!!
There not to hard(slightly harder then standard shock set up) but you can adjust it to how high/low you want the ride height which is all you want for a road car, Ok they havent got all the bells and whistles as Ohlins, KW, AST etc but there a lot cheaper.
Best set of coilovers Ive had on any Impreza have been the Eibach pro street coilover that I have had on my previous hawk sti and blobeye!!
There not to hard(slightly harder then standard shock set up) but you can adjust it to how high/low you want the ride height which is all you want for a road car, Ok they havent got all the bells and whistles as Ohlins, KW, AST etc but there a lot cheaper.
Emma had these on her old bug she sold have to agree were a good quality ride and no knocking etc
14 September 2014, 08:45 PM
#40
I am remembering that when they first came out quite alot of members was complaining about noise and knocking and that's when they changed the top hats,but that was on the earlier models,i think the problem is most just fit them without getting a proper set up,or not realizing that a suspension set up is recommended after X amount of time as hitting pot holes etc.. can knock the settings out.I can only talk for myself and my wife's car who has them fitted as well and they both work fine on my blob and her classic.SJ.
14 September 2014, 08:46 PM
#41
Like already said, if I wanted my car lowering in the future, a set of lowering springs will do, as coilovers are a expensive mistake if you dont like the ride comfort/knocking problems you get from them.
14 September 2014, 08:51 PM
#42
You have to use the standard rubber mounts, which I think most of the problems with knocking come from the metal top mounts/hats where you can adjust the camber etc. especially the Tein coilovers the top mounts on those always knock in my experience, I was always tightening them up as they would come loose over time.
Like already said, if I wanted my car lowering in the future, a set of lowering springs will do, as coilovers are a expensive mistake if you dont like the ride comfort/knocking problems you get from them.
Like already said, if I wanted my car lowering in the future, a set of lowering springs will do, as coilovers are a expensive mistake if you dont like the ride comfort/knocking problems you get from them.
14 September 2014, 08:56 PM
#43
14 September 2014, 09:12 PM
#47
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But then I realised I didn't .....Sorry!
Let me try again. The Hawk STi's suspension is sh*t ....... IMHO
* Its not ****, but compared to Impreza's of yore which flowed with a challenging road, it just .......doesn't .....again, IMHO!
14 September 2014, 09:18 PM
#50
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LOL I was just about to say "hence why I put a IMHO" in there .....
But then I realised I didn't .....Sorry!
Let me try again. The Hawk STi's suspension is sh*t ....... IMHO
* Its not ****, but compared to Impreza's of yore which flowed with a challenging road, it just .......doesn't .....again, IMHO!
But then I realised I didn't .....Sorry!
Let me try again. The Hawk STi's suspension is sh*t ....... IMHO
* Its not ****, but compared to Impreza's of yore which flowed with a challenging road, it just .......doesn't .....again, IMHO!
14 September 2014, 09:18 PM
#51
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14 September 2014, 09:21 PM
#53
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Every company is the same, punters keep asking for stuff so they start supplying and fitting the stuff. Punters tend to not listen to advice, so it's easy money.
RCM's reputation isn't at risk by doing so, supply due to demand.
14 September 2014, 09:31 PM
#58
FT,this is taken from a pm my mate got sent when he had problems with his BC'S things to check,there fine now,he had a similar complaint to you,but he did fit them himself
.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
If you still have problems after that I would give BCR a call, they may be able to help further..SJ.
.The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
If you still have problems after that I would give BCR a call, they may be able to help further..SJ.
14 September 2014, 09:34 PM
#59
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I thought my BC ERs were good, the rear of the car was noisy with them though this was not the coilovers directly - it was the parcel shelf popping and knocking as the ER's had solid top mounts.
I sold them on, as I thought I'd be permanently moving overseas but as it looks now that I'll be home for Xmas - I put some KW V3s on with Group N rear topmounts.
I've only driven the car about 150 miles as I was only home for a week, but that included a Blyton trackday and they KWs are much, much better coilovers for road use. The KWs are just under 2k but require you to source top-mounts (Group N Rear and Whiteline Max-C fronts on mine) and the BCs were 1400 including solid BC mounts all around, so quite a price difference.
My car now doesn't make a sound in terms of knocking and popping, handles the local B roads much better but being completely honest - the track performance isn't noticeable between the KW and BC units.
I sold them on, as I thought I'd be permanently moving overseas but as it looks now that I'll be home for Xmas - I put some KW V3s on with Group N rear topmounts.
I've only driven the car about 150 miles as I was only home for a week, but that included a Blyton trackday and they KWs are much, much better coilovers for road use. The KWs are just under 2k but require you to source top-mounts (Group N Rear and Whiteline Max-C fronts on mine) and the BCs were 1400 including solid BC mounts all around, so quite a price difference.
My car now doesn't make a sound in terms of knocking and popping, handles the local B roads much better but being completely honest - the track performance isn't noticeable between the KW and BC units.
14 September 2014, 09:36 PM
#60
Thanks sj, I have redone preload and arbs etc are new and white line and cdf stuff.
I'll give it a tighten tommorow,oddly enough I had a rattle from the rear and it turned out to be the anti rattle shim rattling!!!
You have one job ffs!!!
I'll give it a tighten tommorow,oddly enough I had a rattle from the rear and it turned out to be the anti rattle shim rattling!!!
You have one job ffs!!!