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The Bug - Refreshed

Old Aug 23, 2014 | 05:59 PM
  #91  
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Wouldn't bother for that mate no point it's fine stop worrying
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 06:51 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by GIBZY
Thanks for putting my mind to rest guys. Would you say that there is a need for a catch can or wouldn't you bother. ?
Unless you are going to be running stupid BHP (which you are not) then there is no need at all Shaun, you could disconnect the intercooler hoses from any standard turbocharged car and find oil mist residue.
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 07:05 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Cannon Fodder
Unless you are going to be running stupid BHP (which you are not) then there is no need at all Shaun, you could disconnect the intercooler hoses from any standard turbocharged car and find oil mist residue.
Cheers bud. As for BHP as long as I can get around the 300 mark for this year I'll be happy.

I managed to pick up another little gift to carry on the Mishimoto theme.

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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 08:54 PM
  #94  
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So today was the day of reckoning. I had to try and refit the turbo intake pipe (autobahn 888) silicon type, with lugs, with the inlet manifold still in place. Lets say i thought that was the most difficult part......
Well i got there with a bit of jigging (not the dancing type), but in the process i had to unhook the purge valve. I thought well that cant be too hard to put back together. HOW WRONG WAS I. After 40 minutes of struggling, and even the missus trying to lend a hand over what pipe goes where this is the only way i could thing to get it back right.



But all was good in the end and got it all sorted. For tomorrow we flat down the intercooler, polish, re-fit the new Mishimoto hoses and refit the intercooler unit to the bay.



i also replaced all of the minging bolts on the header tank. I enptied some old coolant out of the tank. Now for a real Noob question

Is the header tank supposed to be filled of is it used as an overflow? Please dont shoot me for asking that.

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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 09:42 PM
  #95  
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it should be filled, and overflow by battery topped up also.
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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 09:46 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by dj219957
it should be filled, and overflow by battery topped up also.
Does it get topped up with straight water or with a mixture of antifreeze also?

Thanks for the reply.
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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 10:52 PM
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Looking good so far mate, making some tidy progress and making the bug last longer in the future!
I must get my front bumper off soon to see my rust lol
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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 10:55 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by EssexJamie
Looking good so far mate, making some tidy progress and making the bug last longer in the future!
I must get my front bumper off soon to see my rust lol
thanks Jamie. The hydrate 80 stuff from Bilt Hammer is the bollox, it almost dries back to the original paint colour and creates a solid barrier around the rust chemically changing it back to metal.

Cant wait to get him back on the open road now.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 12:10 AM
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a good project going on here looking forward to more! heres my bug https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...preza-wrx.html

got a couple Q's if you dont mind ive just bought some jdm headlights are they easy to install, just need the ballasts wiring in? and the induction kit have you mapped the car for that yet, as i would like one but not currently looking at mapping- cheers

oh and the shortened number plate, i cant find them anywhere please share where i can find one

Last edited by jacob360; Aug 25, 2014 at 12:12 AM.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 12:17 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by jacob360
a good project going on here looking forward to more! heres my bug https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...preza-wrx.html

got a couple Q's if you dont mind ive just bought some jdm headlights are they easy to install, just need the ballasts wiring in? and the induction kit have you mapped the car for that yet, as i would like one but not currently looking at mapping- cheers

oh and the shortened number plate, i cant find them anywhere please share where i can find one
Hey Jacob, i have been following your thread as a subscriber. Its comong on well.
The Nur spec R is something i want to get my hands on but havent managed to find one yet.

My JDMs, were a straight plug and play fit. watch out for the relays though they can get a tad rusty on the connections and need cleaning out.
As for the induction, some say to remap when changed, some dont. I took the chance. Changed from HKS panel filter to RCM induction kit with no adverse change to the cars performance.
The number plate i shortened myself. As long as you have a min of 10mm each side of the trailing letter / number then you will be OK. I will be looking to run mine plateless with a Cobb delete plate to the front bumper.

I hope this answers your questions.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 12:41 AM
  #101  
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thanks very much! yes answered my questions very well! i think i will join you and take the risk and try out an induction kit, think i have a spare number plate some where so will try and shorten it tomorrow. hopfully have the exhaust on mine Tuesday will get a video up too!
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 07:35 PM
  #102  
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So as promised I flatted back the TMIC paint and polish it up. Came out better than expected. I would give the fins a quick coat of silver but I have seen some nightmare jobs where the paint has deteriorated to a point where a new IC will be needed.
Thus said I am sill considering an STI top mount as an upgrade.



And with the mishimoto y pipe fitted



And the alternator cover buffed up pretty nice aswell considering it was my first attempt





Now all I need I'd a connector from the air intake hose to the BOV and it can all go back together.
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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 09:01 AM
  #103  
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Default Is this an acceptable fitment

So I've managed to get the RCM air filter fitted with the delete of the ugly original offset solid plastic pipe. My questions is such, is the fitting of the filter I. This manner acceptable



Aswell I has delivered and took all of seconds to fit


Only gripe. They could have put the sticker on so that it faces the right way !!!

Spending is going to be minimal this month as the signum has decided to throw 2 injectors yesterday. Hoo hum, more cleaning of bits it is then
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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 01:06 PM
  #104  
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Looking good that mate.I think it needs some more colour in the engine bay now you have started it
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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 01:53 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Rick2014
Looking good that mate.I think it needs some more colour in the engine bay now you have started it
Cheers rick. I've got a couple of pieces going orange. But nothing over the top.
I'm going to do all the yellow filler caps. And a new grim speed radiator and alternator cover is next on the agenda.
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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #106  
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Agree orange is looking good, just needs a few extra bits done too without going ott
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 09:50 PM
  #107  
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So I've been really really quiet on this thread and for a very valid reason, but those that I need not go into.

I have had to kick my *** into gear to get the car running again.

I've ditched the FMIC and picked up a bargain FMIC off of someone who knew not what they had. Result.

So I've started to fit it all on whilst changing all of the grotty old fixings with stainless steel ones.











Also managed to pick up a set of pinks, although the guy assured me that they worked perfectly when he took the off as he upgraded to some 1000cc ones.

No time left to type, must return to garage !!!!!
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 07:59 PM
  #108  
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Lol great work Shaun
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 09:20 PM
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So the remainder of the turbo inlet holes are well and truly plugged and all of the hoses have been dry fitted to ensure I got everything orientated correctly.



And I had a mini melt down over what dv to choose for the fmic.
After some searching I found a cheap SARD R2D2 BOV that will do as a stop gap until I can find something more suitable



This weekend I'm hoping to get the car started after more than 6 months standing..
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 08:18 PM
  #110  
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So im battling on with the putting back together of the Bug and after monhts of standing dormant she has been started. without so much as a hiccup she fired back into life and its so nice to hear the burble once again.

Matty has sorted me out with a radiator cooling panel, just got to find a decent alternator cover now.

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/k...psscwbo9pf.jpg
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 08:54 PM
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Great work Shaun it's coming together now
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 09:01 PM
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So with key in had and a fair amount of work carried out in the engine bay it was a tentative turn of the key after a long 11 months (not 6 as previously thought).

And brap, brap, brap, brap ..... it breathes the life it once knew.

Now to re-assemble the STi HIDs, hide all of the wiring and ballasts inside the wings and cut away 90% of the front bumper to fit the FMIC.

And thanks to matty i have managed to get hold of a new radiator panel



tomorrow will see the first time use of some jewelers rouge to renew the headlights.

watch this space.

Last edited by GIBZY; Feb 22, 2015 at 09:03 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 01:34 PM
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I am looking to heat wrap the top sections of FMIC piping that come off of the turbo and the throttle body.
Is there any benefits to doing this?
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 01:46 PM
  #114  
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One suggestion I always make is get a short length of silicon hose and split it open lengthways and then fit it on the pipework by the battery terminal, it's electrical insulation from the positive.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 09:26 PM
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you dont really need to wrap the fmic pipe that comes off the turbo, it is worth wrapping the cold side of the fmic pipe from the core to the tb
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ian
you dont really need to wrap the fmic pipe that comes off the turbo, it is worth wrapping the cold side of the fmic pipe from the core to the tb
Looking at what others have done that seems to be the common answer on what to wrap.
Any preference on the type of wrap to use.?
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 11:56 PM
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Using the jewellers rouge I set about sorting the headlights.



Old on left, polished on right.

This stuff is amazing and well worth the £2.25 I paid the nice man on eBay.

The strut brace removed, given a clean down and a coat of wax for good measure, then refitted using new washers and nylock nuts.



Still putting of doing the front bumper cutting !!!
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 11:08 AM
  #118  
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have to say this is coming along well mr, I was nearly tempted for the front mount as well but when I discovered the STI undertray fits in the WRX scoop I ended up sticking with the STI intercooler.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 11:18 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by bludgod
have to say this is coming along well mr, I was nearly tempted for the front mount as well but when I discovered the STI undertray fits in the WRX scoop I ended up sticking with the STI intercooler.
Cheers dude, I was going to do the same but this FMIC a came up so cheap that I couldn't let it go.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 12:57 PM
  #120  
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agreed - there isn't much difference in price for the WRX upgrading to STI TMIC vs Frontmount so it just depends what you can get your hands on first

Is that still a TD04? If so personally I wouldn't worry too much about the dump valve.
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