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I'm coming near the end of an engine rebuild and getting to the stage where I doing things that I hadn't intended on but might as well while the engines on the bench. You know the thing, new oil pump, new hoses, new fuel rails, etc...and a baffled sump as it will defo be seeing some track action.
Anyway, I pulled off the old standard one and ordered a new baffled number and waited for my impressive piece of kit to arrive.
See if you can spot the difference....
Is it just me or is it the exact bloody same exept with 2 plates welded on and a seam around the top plate. I've seen the fancy custom ones but was expecting a bit more. Opinions??
Does the new sump purely have the two plates welded on it?
Can you do the water test with both standard and the modded sump to see if there is a difference?
Andy97I dont get oil pressure warning when stomping on the brakes and heavy cornering. I had it done because I hope to hill climb this year and its for peace of mind
You wouldn't have the luxury of seeing the low oil light come on.. it would just oil surge and the pick up lose oil and you would run a big end for example.. you would not get a warning or any inclining other than you were giving it lots of track before hand etc.. the low oil warning light is useless.. it is an engine dead light.. the pressure setting is so low to activate it.
PS: I had posted a picture of another baffled sump.. but the supplier asked me to remove it as it looked like they prompted me to post the picture etc.. which wasn't the case but removed anyway.
Last edited by Jolly Green Monster; 14 February 2006 at 12:12 PM.
There is a market for better baffled sumps (afterall the standard one is baffled to a degree...) but it is a dark art to make a truely effective sump. The Group N Baffled sumps that TEG sells are very effective and quite expensive, Lateral Performance's baffled and winged sump (see P20SPD's thread in Projects) is a work of art
To make a good one you ideally need to junk the original innards and start afresh...most of the modified standard Subaru baffled sumps I've seen haven't ultimately prevented oil surge...
The Splash test is interesting but what it may not show is how good the baffle mod is at getting the oil to the pick up rather than just keeping it there. If you weld the holes up as well as the sides then you could possibly slow the oil to the pick up and be in danger or surge more perhaps???
I put big end failier on my last engine down to sump design / capacity , when the engine in doing 7000 rpm add a resonable G force eg in my case a roundabout , the oil simply does not fall into the bottom of the engine quick enough, the oil pump cavitates, your bearings are then running on bubbles instead of oil, I looked at lots of sumps including a similar version of the above , the Prodrive big wing , gated (with little rubber gates :-) work of art was around £3000,00 + vat the above from 120 ish , but in my opinion it is the increased capacity that is important, I finally ended up waiting 6 weeks for an ARC alloy big wing from japan , Holds about 6.5 l and is shaped internally to stop surge, a bit steep @ £550.00 ish , but the car has been through a lot worse than a roundabout now with no problems, I also altered the pickup to sump clearance from 15 mm standard (both standard sump & ARC ) to 6mm ( as used on wrc engines)
Have a good one
Tim, I too have an ARC sump...I tried the splash test and got very wet! The bolt in baffling is now in the bin...
Actually in reality it's waiting for me to modify it I intend to make a bolt in baffle similar to the centre of the Lateral Sump...or buy a Lateral sump if I get bored trying to make it work and still fit around the HKS headers, I was lucky and got an ARC for 360 quid new, here in the UK
Not that sure that baffling would make much difference anyway , I did read somewhere about the flow rate of the oil pump @ 7000 rpm , it was something very large , I just put it down to the fact , with approx 5l of oil pumping that fast with only gravity to get it back down to the pickup , it just isnt getting there sometimes, one tiny suck of air into the pump and number 3 bearing goes, apparently very much more prone to happen if your oil level isnt spot on the top mark, (as mine wasn`t when it went:-)
I have the good fortune to live 2 miles away from a motorsport company that deals mainly with WRC/Gp A Scoob/Ford and be very good friends with the owner (my Bro works there aswell so that helps :-) hench the pick-up modification, Which I would recomend any way, If anyone wants breif instructions on how to do it please say,
Have a good one
How I modified my oil pick-up ; my engine was on a stand so nice and easy to work on, fit oil pickup as standard, raid you kids room for some plastcene (sp?) or blue tack, cover pick-up with cling film / plastic to stop plas/blu getting into it , make plas in to 15mm ish snake, then place round rim of pickup, fit sump, remove sump , measure plas to find original gap, I then cut pick-up pipe close to engine end, tacked a bit of tube in to lengthen, made a 10 mm aloy spacer for pick-up mount, refit and measure, make sure it is paralel with base of sump ( hence the tacks, took about 4 attempts :-) I then ground tacks back and brazed both ends of joint, grind baffle plates in sump to clear pipe , clean everything , easy peasy, only takes about 20 mins ,,,,,,,, well closer to 6 hours lol
have a good one