Talking Dog

iTrader: (1)

Hi… I’m refreshing a lot of old suspension and steering items on my 02 STi.

Im not a track day persons and this is my daily drive up and down the motorway so some comfort is needed..

I’ve bought the Pedders Ez fit kit with slight camber – so slightly lower. ( replacing 6 year old BC’s)
Whitewhite ball joints and tie rod ends
Whiteline steering rack bushes
Poly front lower control arm bushes .. no added degree or angle.

I also want to replace the aging front arm bushes but do i/should I go down the anti-lift/caster solution, or can I go for Group N replacement solution.

Any and all feedback great appreciated..

big keith

Whar r the pedders like thinking of changing to there struts.

Talking Dog

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know a company that refurbishes BC Coilsovers..

@ Keith, i've just had the pedders fitted with other bits .. i cant give a full verdict yet.

Tidgy

i;d return the pedders and get some decent stuff, had mine on for 3 months and replaced under warranty twice before returning it and having some teins flex z fitted. quieter, handles better, less bouncy and much less crash ride by comparison.

Arfer67

Did anyone have any other thoughts on the OPs original question, Anti lift or

Group N bushes, I am trying to decide the same thing, but 2pots response in

here

https://www.scoobynet.com/driving-dy...speed-braking-
issue.html

has made me veer towards the Group N part.

Anybody got any other thoughts on the original question?

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

anti-lift kit definitely improves straightline stablility and more responsive turn-in. Mine's been on for 10 years. As with any mod, associated upgrades need to be done to get full benefit.
Trev

2pot

iTrader: (3)

Anti-dive/lift is about maintaining a consistency of suspension movement and, therefore, driver confidence. As if a roll bar was running front to rear, as opposed to side-to-side.
Removing anti-dive/lift allows more front suspension movement = a reduction in corner exit understeer, at the expense of increased dive and lift.

If you keep the same front spring rate/damping and remove the anti-dive, you run the risk of using up all your bump travel under hard braking and having no bump travel left for cornering and road irregularities.
You could stiffen the front springs, you could stiffen the front damping, to make up for removing it - detrimental if your roads are undulating/uneven.

The fact that the car looks like it's on its nose during braking, doesn't mean its centre of gravity has significantly moved. Through design, it's possible to make the rear squat under braking.

2pot

iTrader: (3)

The increased positive caster component:
Improves straight-line stability.
Means the camber curve, during cornering, stays negative, for longer.
Can reduce tyre wear due to excessive amounts of static camber - you can run less static camber for the same cornering effect.

Those effects are due to increased caster and are independent of increasing the amount of dive and lift.
Increasing the dive and lift (softening the front spring rate) would help turn-in, if your springing/damping was too stiff, for your road conditions.

Talking Dog

iTrader: (1)

The anti-lift kit is very nice.. straight line pull is like a cat on carpet.. the wheel feel hooked down and it feels very strong. There is a noticeable lighter feel to the steering now with the all the new parts .. Im going to let a week pass before giving my views on the pedders..