trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

how difficult is the above to fit? My tie rod arms have been replaced in the last year and that appears straightforward but can the fitting on the wishbone be difficult on an old car. I would source a ball joint splitter.
I'm just considering my old bones under the car lol.
Alternatively what hours are a garage likely to charge for the work?
thanks for any input
Trev

Markyscoob

It's just a new outer ball joint. Pretty simple job, but requires a good heft and much better done on a ramp. In the warm, in the light, can't argue with the benefits! It should also only take an hour to do both sides.

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

thanks for reply.
I have garage estimate @£314.inc vat, that's with geo check but doesn't include adjustments which it will clearly need. It isn't a regular job for them so at 3.75 hrs labour the feeling is their system is over quoting. My gut feeling is the overall time wont change much, just less on the ball joint replacement and some added for geo adjustments.
I might get another estimate, I would have been happy with 2hrs labour.
Trev

Markyscoob

That's a bit steep. Having rear the instructions, it is a definite easy DIY job. For GEO adjustments, ATS should suffice. Just make use the tie rods are really the same length as the originals and that the locknut is left almost in position when it's loosened then you'll never be that far out on fitting the new ones.

As to the control arm balljoint, I've never looked that hard at my car, but what a clever design. Be careful of the insert if your arms are alloy, and it looks very straight forward too.

I take it your car is quite lowered? If not these are unnecessary items. It will return the car's roll centre if the front is a good 1" lower, but careful if the rear is also low, you may want to lift that a bit. Ideally this kit works best with a car setup that is quite raked.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Far far to dear 2hrs labour at the most that includes four wheel alignment.

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

not a good photo but show's how low. Wouldn't want any lower.[/I]
The issue I have is dual carriageway driving at high speed, the car appears to bottom out on the front suspension when driving through dips in the road. I've tried hardening up the coilovers which hasn't made any difference. I'm talking about as the car YO's down and then up.
The problem with this sort of work, it's ok as long as stuff free's up reasonably, once they encounter seized or difficult stuff, the meter ticks away and the money goes up. I'm hoping the garage is honest and if it takes 2hr's then that's what they'll charge. But at 71, I don't fancy the 'on my back' alternative.
thanks for the input
Trev

Markyscoob

better to have a full side on picture Trev. Your car looks nice BTW.

Can you remind us on here the brand of coilovers and spring rates fitted. you do appear to have a nice rake set in from the picture, in which case the kit will restore your roll centre and improve things. The feeling you are getting is lack of damping or a mis match in the spring rates front to rear perhaps?

2pot

iTrader: (3)

Or, you're contacting the front bump stops - they're too long, and/or not progressive enough?

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

I have Meister R GT1's, the car is low but not extreme and from a suspension height adjustment point of view, it must be lower mid range.
Would it not flag up as a spec fault before now?
Didn't have the problem when I had BC's previously.
thanks
Trev

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

sorry Mark, didn't pick up on your post straightaway.
thanks for the comment, I've had the car 11 years.
Meister R GT1's so not mass produced, item more made to order, don't know the spring rates . There is no problem cornering as hard as I like and on track no problem. I've tried adjusting the coilover setting, softer/ harder but the issue is dual carriageway @ 70/80 were you have natural depressons in the road, as the car YO's down into the low point and comes up, the bump or bottom out happens then.
Trev

Markyscoob

How many miles on these coilovers? It sounds like the damping has gone to be honest. it's low speed damping that is your problem.

My BCs went after 5 years /36,000 miles. The rears lost their rebound and one front it's gas.

The New ones are going on now, if I can find anywhere in the engine bay for the bottles.....

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

I put them on last year so done nothing really, prob 3-4k.
The roll centre kit was fitted today. I haven't been out on the dual carriageway as I didn't get the car back until late afternoon. The signs even so are positive, firstly I had to adjust the dipped headlight beam down to it's lowest setting. Also the car feels firmer on corners and when reversing over the steep sloping camber in the road onto my drive. I wont of course know for sure until it gets some open road driving but keeping my fingers crossed.
Trev

Markyscoob

Interesting. Sounds like the ride height might have been changed? The Roll centre kit on it's own wouldn't change the angle of the car. at all.

What the kit has done is change the balance of your car. The higher front roll centre means the imaginary line through the front and rear roll centres has changed. It has leaned back. In effect any cornering will cause the rear outer corner to dip more than it did. If it feels like it's rolling into the back corner more, you can lift he rear ride height a bit.

All the feelings you mention are ride height/damping related.

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

Visually, distance- wheel to wheel arch appears unchanged, the car does feel firmer, the headlight issue is odd. My first limited impressions are there is more resistance to dipping, if that's confirmed with out of town driving (coming up soon lol) that will be down to the new kit and not coilover adjustment which to be fair are new kit on an old car.
I will have to see how it goes, the garage just did a toe alighnment which they threw in as felt bad re the book price they charged me.
Trev