Silverstone on coilovers - what settings?
#1
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Thread Starter
Silverstone on coilovers - what settings?
I'm doing an event at Silverstone in a few weeks, and have MeisterR Zeta coilovers fitted on my blob WRX wagon.
I usually have them set at 10 clicks from soft all round for normal driving. Was thinking of stiffening them up for the track, but wondered by how much? For the session we're doing it will be 40 minutes of lapping but no practice or setup time beforehand, so I'll only get one shot at setting them.
Was thinking of going for about 20 (out of 32) from soft all round. Does that sound about right? How bumpy is the Silverstone GP circuit?
P.S. Last time I was on a track I got lots of understeer, but since then I have different coilovers, different (wider) wheels and tyres, different ride height and different geometry settings. Still, would rather have a bit less understeer if possible.
I usually have them set at 10 clicks from soft all round for normal driving. Was thinking of stiffening them up for the track, but wondered by how much? For the session we're doing it will be 40 minutes of lapping but no practice or setup time beforehand, so I'll only get one shot at setting them.
Was thinking of going for about 20 (out of 32) from soft all round. Does that sound about right? How bumpy is the Silverstone GP circuit?
P.S. Last time I was on a track I got lots of understeer, but since then I have different coilovers, different (wider) wheels and tyres, different ride height and different geometry settings. Still, would rather have a bit less understeer if possible.
Last edited by boggissimo; 24 January 2017 at 11:30 AM.
#2
Scooby Regular
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I'm doing an event at Silverstone in a few weeks, and have MeisterR Zeta coilovers fitted on my blob WRX wagon.
I usually have them set at 10 clicks from soft all round for normal driving. Was thinking of stiffening them up for the track, but wondered by how much? For the session we're doing it will be 40 minutes of lapping but no practice or setup time beforehand, so I'll only get one shot at setting them.
Was thinking of going for about 20 (out of 32) from soft all round. Does that sound about right? How bumpy is the Silverstone GP circuit?
P.S. Last time I was on a track I got lots of understeer, but since then I have different coilovers, different (wider) wheels and tyres, different ride height and different geometry settings. Still, would rather have a bit less understeer if possible.
I usually have them set at 10 clicks from soft all round for normal driving. Was thinking of stiffening them up for the track, but wondered by how much? For the session we're doing it will be 40 minutes of lapping but no practice or setup time beforehand, so I'll only get one shot at setting them.
Was thinking of going for about 20 (out of 32) from soft all round. Does that sound about right? How bumpy is the Silverstone GP circuit?
P.S. Last time I was on a track I got lots of understeer, but since then I have different coilovers, different (wider) wheels and tyres, different ride height and different geometry settings. Still, would rather have a bit less understeer if possible.
Trev
#3
Is this Zeta-R, or ZetaCRD+?
Also, just a note.
Always adjust dampers from full stiff toward full soft.
So instead of counting 20 clicks from full soft, count 12 clicks from full stiff.
Because you will be "opening" the internal valve from the fully closed position, and this give the most consistent damping adjustments.
Jerrick
Also, just a note.
Always adjust dampers from full stiff toward full soft.
So instead of counting 20 clicks from full soft, count 12 clicks from full stiff.
Because you will be "opening" the internal valve from the fully closed position, and this give the most consistent damping adjustments.
Jerrick
#4
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
ZetaCRD+, fitted last year. Not sure if the weight balance on a wagon makes any difference from what you would recommend for a saloon.
Good to know, thanks.
Also, just a note.
Always adjust dampers from full stiff toward full soft.
So instead of counting 20 clicks from full soft, count 12 clicks from full stiff.
Because you will be "opening" the internal valve from the fully closed position, and this give the most consistent damping adjustments.
Always adjust dampers from full stiff toward full soft.
So instead of counting 20 clicks from full soft, count 12 clicks from full stiff.
Because you will be "opening" the internal valve from the fully closed position, and this give the most consistent damping adjustments.
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I'm no expert on this but have done a few trackdays in my wagon, mainly with BC coilovers but the last one on GT1's. If dry track, I'd plumb for 24 rears/18-20 fronts from soft. If wet, I'd soften the setting's by 10-12 clicks. It's a while since I was at Silverstone but remember it being a good drive. It's a pity the open pitlane days are so expensive.
Trev
Trev
http://www.vscc.co.uk/page/events?eventID=1098
#7
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#8
Okay, If I was to "sort" of guess, -10 front and -15 rear will be around my starting point.
That is starting from full stiff, then turning counter clock wise to soften.
You want to adjust damper from full stiff toward soft, because you are adjusting from a most consistent starting point (when the internal valve are fully closed).
At that setting, you should feel comfortable and responsive.
You are letting your tyres work, and that generate traction.
It isn't so much a "hardcore" setting, but a predictable setting often yield you the best lap time.
I would say give that setting a try and see how it feels on the road.
You want a setup that you are "comfortable" with, because that mean you know what the car want to do on the track.
Jerrick
That is starting from full stiff, then turning counter clock wise to soften.
You want to adjust damper from full stiff toward soft, because you are adjusting from a most consistent starting point (when the internal valve are fully closed).
At that setting, you should feel comfortable and responsive.
You are letting your tyres work, and that generate traction.
It isn't so much a "hardcore" setting, but a predictable setting often yield you the best lap time.
I would say give that setting a try and see how it feels on the road.
You want a setup that you are "comfortable" with, because that mean you know what the car want to do on the track.
Jerrick
#11
That way you have a some feedback on how it feels, and can make amendment before the event.
You will be traction limited by the tyres anyways.
Silverstone have great surfaces and is wide, so you can manage your line to keep the tyres and traction in check.
Jerrick
#12
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Thread Starter
Have set it to -10 front and -15 rear, and you're right Jerrick, it does feel firm, but very responsive. A bit too firm on bumpy back roads though! Trying to find smooth tarmac with some bends is pretty hard around here :-(
#13
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
I'm doing an event at Silverstone in a few weeks, and have MeisterR Zeta coilovers fitted on my blob WRX wagon.
I usually have them set at 10 clicks from soft all round for normal driving. Was thinking of stiffening them up for the track, but wondered by how much? For the session we're doing it will be 40 minutes of lapping but no practice or setup time beforehand, so I'll only get one shot at setting them.
Was thinking of going for about 20 (out of 32) from soft all round. Does that sound about right? How bumpy is the Silverstone GP circuit?
P.S. Last time I was on a track I got lots of understeer, but since then I have different coilovers, different (wider) wheels and tyres, different ride height and different geometry settings. Still, would rather have a bit less understeer if possible.
I usually have them set at 10 clicks from soft all round for normal driving. Was thinking of stiffening them up for the track, but wondered by how much? For the session we're doing it will be 40 minutes of lapping but no practice or setup time beforehand, so I'll only get one shot at setting them.
Was thinking of going for about 20 (out of 32) from soft all round. Does that sound about right? How bumpy is the Silverstone GP circuit?
P.S. Last time I was on a track I got lots of understeer, but since then I have different coilovers, different (wider) wheels and tyres, different ride height and different geometry settings. Still, would rather have a bit less understeer if possible.
Your going to do 40 minutes constant lapping of silverstone in a Subaru?
#14
When you are running long session (any type of endurance racing), you do not want a race setup.
Because driver fatigue will kick in and a more "comfortable" setup will mean you won't get as tired toward the end of the session.
This from our experience, this setup provide more consistent as well as better average lap time, which is what you want.
If it feels good to you, then I would say go with it.
Now if it feel kind of nervous, then I will dial it back.
This is why the adjustment is there, so the driver can dial in what work best for him.
Jerrick
#15
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Feedback after the event - it was great. No problems at all with the damping setup, I probably could have had it a bit harder if anything, but it was all well controlled. Silverstone is a lovely wide circuit and very smooth, so no problems at all.
I think I need some bigger anti-roll bars though!
I think I need some bigger anti-roll bars though!
#18
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Thread Starter
Thanks - that was my best lap, lap timer said I still had a couple of seconds to find if I could string a clean lap together, but realistically it was probably more like 5 seconds if I could get Copse and Stowe right. It was a 40 minute session and I was getting more and more confident on the brakes just as the session ended!
Car is a 2005 WRX wagon with PPP, Meister R coilovers and STi Brembos front and rear. Not much else changed.
Car is a 2005 WRX wagon with PPP, Meister R coilovers and STi Brembos front and rear. Not much else changed.
#19
Clean run, I like it.
My attention was actually on a few point that was slightly over cooked (over the limit), and how the car behave during those time.
Looks to be stable, controllable, and you regain the traction and get back on line very quickly.
Transition through Maggots and Becketts was stable, and you were able to lay the power down early out of Chapel.
I don't see any excessive dipping under braking also, so it is doing everything the suspension should be doing.
The good thing about your setup is that you can drive to the track in comfort.
Make the damping adjustment at the pit so you have a responsive track car.
Then return the adjustment and drive back home in comfort.
That to me is the most important thing that a good fast road & track suspensions should provide.
Jerrick
My attention was actually on a few point that was slightly over cooked (over the limit), and how the car behave during those time.
Looks to be stable, controllable, and you regain the traction and get back on line very quickly.
Transition through Maggots and Becketts was stable, and you were able to lay the power down early out of Chapel.
I don't see any excessive dipping under braking also, so it is doing everything the suspension should be doing.
The good thing about your setup is that you can drive to the track in comfort.
Make the damping adjustment at the pit so you have a responsive track car.
Then return the adjustment and drive back home in comfort.
That to me is the most important thing that a good fast road & track suspensions should provide.
Jerrick
#21
Again, those are the time when compliant suspension can save your buttock (did it for me a few times).
If the suspension is too stiff, it won't be as willing to find traction and it could become a hand full as soon as you lose grip.
It seems like everything broke off and return in a pretty predictable manner, and that is what you want.
Overall, seems like it done well and you enjoy your day.
That is the most important thing.
Jerrick