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Bell come loose from disc after 8 month

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Old Apr 18, 2017 | 12:56 PM
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Default Bell come loose from disc after 8 month

New discs fitted 9 month ago,I had to get them made as I'm running the old scoobyclinic 6 pots(fronts).
I used new bolts and torqued them(10 bolts) to 5Nm cross pattern 1st then 10Nm to finish.
Car developed a rattle on the front so on investigating I found the o/s bell had come loose from the disc
Have I torqued them up to the wrong spec?
Should I be using thread lock?

Cheers
Rich
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Old Apr 18, 2017 | 01:34 PM
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yes to thread lock, but id be making the bolts torque checks part of the PPM`s
cant you fit the little flags like lorries do on their wheel nuts lol
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Old Apr 18, 2017 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
yes to thread lock, but id be making the bolts torque checks part of the PPM`s
cant you fit the little flags like lorries do on their wheel nuts lol
Haha cheers,I can't find my small torque wrench and lost my small adapter for the bigger torque wrench,they're 4mm allen bolts and the heads are on the inside so it's calipers and discs off to check everytime.
I've got no thread lock either lol plus I'm thinking it would be better to get some more new bolts.
I've tightened them all on both discs by hand as much as I dare so I'll get new bolts and some thread lock for next time I do a service and redo them.
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Old Apr 19, 2017 | 06:53 AM
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If you have reused the old nuts , they will have lost the lock on them , they are deformed from new , so when you fit them they lock onto the bolt , they should not really be used again , we always supply new nuts and bolts with our rotors but we use a 6mm nut and bolt.
Pick up some new M4mm all metal locking nuts and it will fix it , you don't need thread lock
Cheers Ian
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Old Apr 19, 2017 | 08:47 AM
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Thanks Ian
Unfortunately my bells have captive nuts on them so not sure they can be replaced?
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Old Apr 19, 2017 | 09:23 AM
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Would this mean new bells needed as it will keep coming loose? Or is there another way?

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Old Apr 19, 2017 | 02:10 PM
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What are my options here?
After 20 miles of driving the knocking is back so I can only assume the bolts have come loose again!
I didn't really want to use thread lock and they were bad enough to get off without that on,it may be my only option tho??
Are the threads on the captive nuts also deformed when new so they lock the bolts?
Would drilling out the captive nuts and putting in longer,thicker bolts with nuts be an option?
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 03:13 PM
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Bump
Any suggestions on this?
I've spent £350 on having the rotors made,£130 on pads so don't want to bin them,and I very much doubt I can buy new bells.
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 03:43 PM
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why not just try the thread lock ?
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 03:47 PM
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I don't see why using bolts with the correct nuts would cause a problem if you drill captive nuts out, and surface is flat.
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
why not just try the thread lock ?
I think I might have to,I was just worried that if I ever had to change the discs again that I'd never get the bolts out with thread lock on there.
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
I think I might have to,I was just worried that if I ever had to change the discs again that I'd never get the bolts out with thread lock on there.
it will crack off no problem so dont worry about that
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cookstar
I don't see why using bolts with the correct nuts would cause a problem if you drill captive nuts out, and surface is flat.
Cheers,not sure if I should risk drilling,I'm not really equipped to do a perfect job and get a perfect flat surface.

Originally Posted by Tidgy
it will crack off no problem so dont worry about that
Nice one,looks like I'll be using thread lock.

Just a bit gutted I wasn't told that the nuts were deformed from new which locked the bolts in,pretty dangerous as it is if I have to brake hard at speed!!!
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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Im just asking Loctite what they suggest lol
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
Im just asking Loctite what they suggest lol

Are there different types of thread lock for certain applications?
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2

Are there different types of thread lock for certain applications?
yes, prob want 278, high temp, higher break away torque. But prob worth a call to loctite to confirm.
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
Cheers,not sure if I should risk drilling,I'm not really equipped to do a perfect job and get a perfect flat surface.



Nice one,looks like I'll be using thread lock.

Just a bit gutted I wasn't told that the nuts were deformed from new which locked the bolts in,pretty dangerous as it is if I have to brake hard at speed!!!
Your set up doesn't have lock nuts from new , I remembered they have those inserts on the scoobyclinic discs , not nuts as on most other 2 piece discs , so yes you can use thread lock to put them in , just use one that can deal with the heat discs get up to

Cheers Ian
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Godspeed Brakes
Your set up doesn't have lock nuts from new , I remembered they have those inserts on the scoobyclinic discs , not nuts as on most other 2 piece discs , so yes you can use thread lock to put them in , just use one that can deal with the heat discs get up to

Cheers Ian
Thanks
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tidgy
yes, prob want 278, high temp, higher break away torque. But prob worth a call to loctite to confirm.
Cheers I will look into it and make sure I choose the right stuff.
3rd time lucky maybe
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
Cheers I will look into it and make sure I choose the right stuff.
3rd time lucky maybe
fingers crossed
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 01:55 PM
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So I have the discs off again,new bolts and thread lock ready.
Only problem is that I think I've spotted why the bells are coming loose so quickly!
I've added some pics,not the best but you will see my problem.

As Ian says these scoobyclinic discs use inserts,I've noticed that the inserts protrude past the metal on the rotor so I'm pretty sure it will never lock down properly?
Should the metal be thicker on this part of the rotor so the inserts sit flush or just below allowing the bolts to grip?

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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 02:00 PM
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 03:42 PM
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Is the gap not there for heat expansion of the disc?
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 04:05 PM
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They look as if they should bolt up tight and not float.

Why not ask scoobyclinic ?? They may be able to supply the necessary drawings.
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Don Clark
They look as if they should bolt up tight and not float.

Why not ask scoobyclinic ?? They may be able to supply the necessary drawings.
This is the problem,scoobyclinic don't supply this brake caliper anymore,they don't supply the discs either,the only supplier afaik is ian@godspeed,he was the guy I turned to as they have the drawings and could supply/fabricate the rotors.

I have put everything back together now with new bolts and loctite in place,I'm hoping this works but am pretty doubtful.
As TECNOPUG says it might be ok allowing for heat expansion but why not manufacture the rotors so the inserts sit flush or bellow so the bolt grips initially?
If they come loose again then I will contact Ian to see what we can do.
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